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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-27-2012 03:56 PM
farna I've built like that before! As long as the weather cooperates you can make progress. What I like about a truck is the front clip comes completely off and out of the way, makes setting the engine mounts up SO much easier than in a unit body car, where you have to lower it in, measure, pull it out, cut/weld/whatever, lower in and check, maybe pull out again... Full frame (not subframe!) car is the same way. Just jack the motor up and weld or whatever with it sitting there!
05-27-2012 11:15 AM
mickysteel
engine swap

Sounds like fun! For me this swap I,m doing is all new to me. I have no shop no garage, just a dirt back yard with car parts all over the place. I have a ten page log and over 50 pictures to help me put all this together. The job grows by the minute. I could have made it a bit less complacated by starting out with a different vehicle. I just have to make due with whats availible.
05-26-2012 09:58 AM
farna I've done a few odd re-engines -- Pinto motor in a 55 Nash Rambler, and various other motors (mostly in Ramblers!). The J-10 I'm building now might be getting a 2.3: turbo four from a Merkur XR4ti. All the Jeep/Rambler guys are skeptical about the turbo four in a full size Jeep, but it puts out about the same torque (albeit at a higher rpm) as the original 258 six and about 50 MORE HP. I know I really need torque more than HP, but the thing has 4.10 gears and will have a Ranger five speed 4x4 trans. Should be at least as strong as the original six and get better gas mileage. Only drawback is the 175 hp four needs premium fuel, but 16/22 mpg on regular or 18/24 mpg (city/hwy) on premium is about the same cost. The 16/22 is about what I was getting with the 258 and a four speed with 2.73 rear gears (4th is 1:1, but with 2.73 gears was about like OD with a five speed and lower gears), 18/24 is what I expect from the turbo four. Would be a lot more interesting vehicle with the turbo four too!
05-25-2012 04:06 PM
mickysteel
New home for my 4.3

Great information. cutting and welding the pan, peace of cake (never crossed my mind). Both moters are out and the truck front clip is on the ground. the weather here has slowed me down a bit.(109f)
Thank you for your info and your time. I,m a jeep lover myself. Back in the late sixties my dad bought 5 willy's at a gov. auction. He's gone now but we still have one in the family. I drive a 98 Cherokee, just hit 200000 and runs like when I bought it. 14 years, brakes and a water pump. (in line 6)
how can you beat that.
05-15-2012 08:58 AM
farna The oil pan might be a stumper. You'll have to research the web and see if there is a front sump pan. If not, you'll have to cut yours off about an inch down from the edge then reverse and weld back together. The pickup tube shouldn't be a big problem, most are pressed in and come up from the bottom. If there is a tab on it that bolts on you may have to cut that off and weld at a different angle, or leave a stub and drill it for another piece that you can bolt to the pump and stub at whatever angle you need. Depends on where the tube mounts on the pump and where the pump mounts. I'm a rarity -- not intimately familiar with SMCs (which the 4.3L is based on) -- I'm an AMC/Rambler/Jeep guy! I've done quite a few odd swaps though.

The front clip isn't terribly difficult, depends on how things line up and what you want. It will be a LOT lower than the straight axle. If you want the truck high you can sit the truck frame on top of the front clip from the van. That can be made to look good, but will require a bit of cutting and welding, and some steering shaft work. Much easier to keep the straight axle even if you have to cut and weld the oil pan. the oil pan is easy enough to take to someone if necessary and shouldn't cost too much to do.

That 4.3L will weight LESS than the old L-head six. The newer auto trans will weigh more than the old stick tranny. All in all I'd say you will be close to the same on drivetrain weight, maybe a bit lighter, but not likely to be heavier.
05-15-2012 08:18 AM
OneMoreTime
Reverse the oil pan

What is done on small block Fords is to build a pan with the sump in the proper place and install a longer pickup tube to relocate the oil pickup to the proper place...Luck has it on the Fords in that the factory did that for us on certain engines. the 4.3 has a fair aftermarket so maybe someone has done this already for you but it is not an overwhelming thing to do on your own..

Sam
05-14-2012 02:58 AM
cobalt327
Quote:
Originally Posted by mickysteel
...Is it possible on this 4.3 to move the oil pickup to the front of the engine? The steering arms are on the back side of the axle, I will have to set the engine 4 to 6in higher.
I was curious about the oil pan, too. There aren't any front sump oil pan/pick ups from the factory, IIRC. I did find a thread that has some info on exchanging oil pans between different years that may help- http://www.clubhotrod.com/chevy-smal...-question.html. But it looks like you're in DIY territory.

FWIW, there was a Chevy II ('67-back w/V8) application that used a front sump pan and pick up and a different oil pump. You might do a search on it and see if you can use some ideas from it on your project.
05-14-2012 12:58 AM
mickysteel
Quote:
Originally Posted by BOBCRMAN@aol.com
You will need just about all the electrics from the donor. Including the ECM and all sensors. Including exhaust sensors. Fuel system etc. If you can fabricate, read a wiring schematic and mark all wires as they are in the original vehicle. You have won most of the battle.

The truck won't know the extra weight is in there. May even ride better..Good luck.

A friend of mine did the same swap on an old Studebaker.. Loves it..
thank you, Ithink I can handle that with the wiring. Is it possible on this 4.3 to move the oil pickup to the front of the engine? The steering arms are on the back side of the axle, I will have to set the engine 4 to 6in higher. the flathead that came out had the oil pickup in the front of eng. and infront of the axle. Worse case is to take the whole clip, which I not really prepared to do. Only because I;ve never done it and am unsure of how much fab. it would take.
05-12-2012 05:25 PM
LATECH X 2 with bob.
When you dissasemble take all the wiring dont cut any of it, unplug it. Study the wiring a little and you will see where it unplugs. Makes it easier when it comes time to reassemble as the plug ins will be a good hint. Also dont cut fuel lines. At the back of the motor there will be Flexible ones. You need to keep those intact. The need to be reused.
Take the gas tank out and keep the emmision evap canister and hoses all intact as well.Evap is nice as it keeps the fumes from stinking up the garage.
The exhaust is a no brainer, sawzall it whatever turns you on. Custom is in the mix there.
05-12-2012 04:48 PM
BOBCRMAN@aol.com You will need just about all the electrics from the donor. Including the ECM and all sensors. Including exhaust sensors. Fuel system etc. If you can fabricate, read a wiring schematic and mark all wires as they are in the original vehicle. You have won most of the battle.

The truck won't know the extra weight is in there. May even ride better..Good luck.

A friend of mine did the same swap on an old Studebaker.. Loves it..
05-12-2012 04:55 AM
mickysteel
move a 4.3 out of 1990 astrovan into 53 dodge B4B

Well its come to this, the van has been sitting around doing nothing. It has a strong engine and good trans. The truck has a bad flathead 6. The cost to rebuild it, is way more than I want to spend. I've never done this before, and would like to know to best way to proceed, and what electric has to stay with the engine n trans? I just want engine, trans and alternator. I also am looking to keep the trucks cab as original as possible.
. What would the weight change do to the front end. ( I have a 140in wheel base). Any heads up I can get on this project would really help. The clip is off the truck and tomorrows I start removal of the 4.3.......Thanks Micky steel

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