I guess being a "wrench" is kinda like being a doctor. When at a party, and someone finds out that you do what you do for a living...
Anyway, a neighbor came to me with this; He has an '07 ford pickup, with the triton V-8 5.4l. It developed a misfire, so he elected to change the spark plugs. Now these are not your ordinary plugs. these things look more like an igniter for a stove, or a "torpedo" heater. Anyway, he found the culprit, and went to extract it, all came out except the part marked in the pic. it's still in the head, with the ceramic, and electrode still in it.
It's like it just snapped off at the base of the tapered part. (probably the reason it quit firing)
The picture is of one of the other plugs that he replaced @~$13 ea.
The part between the lines is all that's stuck in the head.
I've been delegated to come up with a method of extracting it, without removing the head, or ruining the rest of the engine.
I've gotten pretty good at removing the threaded parts of broken/seized plugs, but this is a new one on me.
Most vehicles have these problems in one area or another. GMs and Dodges have their pain in the rear, accessibility issues too. In order to change the heater core on a 99-07 Silverado you have to remove the entire dash from the firewall.
Ever change a power steering pressure line on a Honda Prelude? It's about six feet long and wraps (the long way) around the engine and down to the power steering rack that is behind and below the engine.
Replace the battery on a PT Cruiser? It's underneath the intake manifold plenum. If it needs to be jumped all you get are two little posts peeking up from underneath.
I can just imagine old timers in the 1950s complaining about the "complexity" of the (then) new 12v electric systems...
Maybe old timers from the turn of the 1900s complaining about them new fangled horseless carriages...
My Buddy, just had the plugs changed in his Ford pickup,had to jack up cab,the bill was $1600.00,had to heli-coil every plug hole,fords better idea. :smash: :nono: ain:
Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results!
*They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.*
*The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone*
*Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.*
If you never want to have that problem again every 25-30k pull them out and re install, i have the extractor from snap on it works great but this little tip will work wonders for you in the long run
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