|03-05-2014 09:43 PM|
lets play around with cleaning up the PCV and see what I can do with the broken exhaust studs
so this is the hand I was dealt, I had used nuts and bolts before for the test runs of the engines but lets see if I can get some studs in there
while tapping the threads you know the hole is in the right space when you get this
now to move on to the next one
looks like they burned the old studs out but I need the holes to be straight so I am using a file to clean it up
this will get a helicoil if this were a stressed part this repair is awfully close to the out side
I am using 3/8x 16 GM style exhaust studs, I really like the double long brass nuts
next one .....now this will be a challenge but at least I can straighten up the hole for the nut and bolt
a broken file chucked in the drill
cleaned up but too big for a heli coil so I am just using a nut and bolt I could plug it and drill it but its just not that critical to me.
cleaned up the PCV from the MGB
and the cap gets some stainless steel paint to cover the rust stains
|03-04-2014 09:52 AM|
|03-04-2014 09:49 AM|
we are iced in so heres a quick hour
I found the leak on the water pump and its at the bottom weep hole
definitely not a leaking gasket
time for a new water pump.
I was looking at the rear side tappet cover and the MBG is indented where the 1500 one is protruded and it is much thicker, the PCV front cover plate actually has a tubing collar where the bolt goes through almost like they are trying to keep oil off of the center bolt. I will leave these as they are but when I remove the intake manifold again to put the body on if the rear is leaking I will swap it with the MGB one
|03-03-2014 01:42 PM|
|evolvo||X2 on checking the pilot bearing!|
|03-03-2014 01:32 PM|
the pressure plate was installed correctly, its turned up side down for the measuring part of the picture taking process. it was the metal disk that the springs were in and the blue tape with the measurements goes to the edge of the disk. the spigot bearing looked fine . the issue was that disks splined drive point was not concentric and it got shoved into the inner part of the pressure plate when it rotated out of round thus mating the pressure plate and the clutch disk. and since the pressure plate rotates with the flywheel it would drive the input shaft.
|03-03-2014 01:24 PM|
you know where that's going...
55 minutes from putting the old components back on to having it installed... 15 mins to get it aligned and close and then 35 mins of wiggling and massaging the angles and then it slipped right in place with no effort.
cleaned paint over spray off of the oil filter mounting plate
2 hrs from start to finish
and heres the MGB valve cover and front tappet cover having the cork gaskets mated to the stamped steel with permatex
total time 2.5 hrs and the best part the clutch works perfectly, I can disengage with it a lever and I can turn the drive shaft by hand and it feels right .....I am a happy camper!!!
|03-02-2014 03:48 PM|
Your photos of the clutch disc shows it sitting in the pressure plate two different ways.
Could the clutch plate may have been installed back to front.
Could you look at the clutch plate and tell us which part of it was rubbing on the pressure plate?
Lastly how's the spigott bearing? if it's worn it may allow the clutch plate to run off centre.
|03-02-2014 03:15 PM|
about 2 hrs of work....I have a leaking water pump which needs to be replaced and I want to switch over to the MGB PCV so I need to take lots of stuff off any way.....and my clutch still just doesn't seem right. Using my mechanical pressure plate release I can release the clutch and move the drive shaft by hand yet when I turn the engine over and its running the clutch seems to be engaged? really strange.....it almost seemed like something is off center and acting like a cam picking up interfence as it rotates....
up up and away
hows that for a nice smooth throw out bearing...that sure doesn't look right
end of the shaft isn't scored
disk is mounted right
this isn't right ...........look at the shoulder that has been dug/grinded into the pressure plate
so as we looked at this we realized that the splined center of the pressure plate must not be centered, these are the distances to the edge of the clutch disk that sits in the pressure plate from the center opening
heres the old clutch disk sitting in the pressure plate showing the free play from side to side, the measurement shows the amount of the pressure plate I could measure from side to side
the new clutch disk has NO movement or free play
heres the shoulder that has been dug into the pressure plate
heres the undamaged side
so heres the bottom line the clutch disk Spline was off center and there was not enough free movement in the pressure plate opening that it sits in to accommodate the off centerness and the clutch disk would then be shoved into the side of the pressure plate opening causing the shoulder and since the pressure plate is mounted to the fly wheel it would drive the input shaft...
what a complete waste or time.....a MC with a defective cylinder.....a slave cylinder that sucks in air.....a clutch disk manufactured incorrectly and now a defective throw out bearing...
|02-23-2014 03:13 PM|
I'm not good at doing nothing....
I made this and used a nut and big washer on my old slave cylinder to make a mechanical clutch release
heres proof I am not nuts its a video just click on it, the clutch disengages
VID00030-20140223-1132_zpsb1c6dfda.mp4 Video by bobs77vet | Photobucket
|02-22-2014 03:52 PM|
Have you thought about bleeding the slave off the gearbox and re-mount it after bleeding.
This would let you rotate it (and even tip it) so all possible air is expelled.
The flexible line should give enough play to do this.
|02-22-2014 12:28 PM|
this is the old lock heed unit with holes at 12 and 3
heres the new unit with holes more like 1:30 and 3....now rotate this clock wise some when it gets mounted and you can see where you have trapped air.
so lets pretend the last 2 wks never happened.....everything is back to where it was...
cleaned up the pressure bleeder and i will order the correct bleeding cap
all lines capped
|02-21-2014 05:59 PM|
I am so close.......the rebuilt MC with out bleeding has me within 2-3mm of where I know the clutch pressure plate disengages from previous measurements taken with the lever and strap, but the 56 yr old springs that that were in the MC which I reused are just not up to the challenge of returning the piston forward with fluid in the system after I push the pedal down to bleed the system the manual way. add to that the top plate screws are too high for my motive pressure bleeder early Ford adapter to work. so I need to either rethink a bleeding strategy or just wait for the new MC to arrive.
the defective MC will get shipped back tomorrow to the vendor for replacement , but the vendor for the clutch slave will not take a return if silicone fluid was used so I am getting some prices from a different source.
on the positive side I have incredible pressure at the clutch pedal I just need to get rid of some residual air....so close
|02-21-2014 07:44 AM|
well last night I swapped the rebuilt old MC with the new one and you could feel an immediate increase in pedal pressure, i filled it up from the bottom and for some reason i could not get a good seal on the motive pressure bleeder up top for a final pressure bleeding. i think this is because the screw heads are taller then the flatter bolts so i have a partially bled rebuilt MC that is giving me more pedal pressure and marginally more pedal travel 1-2 mm on a partially bled system. i will take that as a positive step forward.
heres the old nice looking unit ....
and the rebuilt one since i was working solo all of my measurements were done with a clamp up top which also lost me some small amount of pedal travel since it didn't fit very well, this after noon when my helper gets out of school we will nail this down
|02-20-2014 12:29 PM|
whats critical is that the pretravel of the MC pushrod is at a bare minimum to let the piston fully return but no more. and that all the fluid getting pressed into the cylinder actually makes it to the slave cylinder and doesnt leak around the MC piston. i have one problem i know of and can see....the MC piston does not rest at the same spot each time, i suspect it also blowing fluid by the seals and not giving me a full shot of fluid going into the slave cyl, thks bob
|02-20-2014 12:19 PM|
rebuilt the old MC tonight to use as test/temporary unit
doesnt look like much
if you ever wondered how big those fluid return holes are this is with a flash light shining in the bore
not very pretty but its just for a temporary use.
i am cycling the pistons to make sure that they will return freely under spring pressure and just for fun some of the cycling has been done with fluid in it like doing a bench bleeding.....
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