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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-14-2013 08:26 PM
F-BIRD'88 These heads will work well. But MUCH better if you port them before installing them.
To increase air flow.
if you actually want horsepower. Porting and larger 1.94x 1.60 valves make a big difference.
Then they work real good.

If you just bolt them on in stock as cast form keep your expectations modest.


Cam: Isky 270H Mega cam 201271 (108LSA)
Isky hyd lifters isKy 205D springs. the exhaust spring seats are deeper and will need extra shimming if/when you eliminate
the OEM exhaust rotators. To get the correct installed height.

use champion RV8c plugs 34 to 36deg timing @ max advance. watch for excessive advance and excessive vacuum advance.
Its up to you to dial in the distributor curve correctly.
Dual plane hi rise RPM style intake 750cfm carb.
87 octane probabily-most likely will not work. but 92 will.
04-14-2013 08:11 PM
chasman
305 HO heads on a 350???

Hi, guys this is my 1st post on here and I have a Question. I just got a set of 305 HO heads: 14014416 and #624. They are good heads but I would like to know if they will work on a 350 bored 40 over with flat tops. Also need the best street cam and lifters for it. The motor is going in my 1927 model A Rat Rod so it is just a cruiser not a racer. It has 373s in the rearend and a 2 speed power glide trans and we drive it on the hiway quite a bit. Like I said its not a race car just a strong cruiser. All your ideas are greatly appreciated!! Chasman
09-20-2012 12:04 AM
F-BIRD'88 When the dots on the cam and crank gear are at 6 and 12 oclock ( for installing the cam gear and chain) this is TDC #6 cylinder.

Rotate the crank 1 turn. Cam and crank gear dots are now at 12 and 12/ oclock. This is TDC #1.
Now you can install the distributor so the rotor points to #1 plug wire on the cap.
09-19-2012 10:33 PM
bygddy
Quote:
Originally Posted by kingofny1997 View Post
My question is I'm reading that cam at 6oclock and crank at 12 is really #6 TDC, so I also read I have to turn the crank 360 degrees clockwise.... In order to get it to #1 TDC so what way is the distributor really supposed to be at when I install it, in order for the motor to start... And since I am breaking in the cam, do I set the timing while I have the motor rev at 2000-2500rpm or fix the timing after the camps broken in.....HELP new to this, but getting threw most of it easy
Really would love to hear an answer to this as I'm about to do the same this weekend....
06-01-2012 06:29 AM
kingofny1997 My question is I'm reading that cam at 6oclock and crank at 12 is really #6 TDC, so I also read I have to turn the crank 360 degrees clockwise.... In order to get it to #1 TDC so what way is the distributor really supposed to be at when I install it, in order for the motor to start... And since I am breaking in the cam, do I set the timing while I have the motor rev at 2000-2500rpm or fix the timing after the camps broken in.....HELP new to this, but getting threw most of it easy
05-31-2012 09:42 PM
kingofny1997 Got the gasket in today, bought some high temp silicone for the extra seal...pretty fine with putting everything back together

just worried about the distributor hook up and lining up right to start up, tdc is reached (#1 piston is TDC....) also before I took out the distributor I labeled number 1-8 spark plug points on the distributor
05-29-2012 05:15 PM
kingofny1997
Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88
Filling the internal volume of the lifter with oil prior to install is not nessessary
or advised
And can make it real hard to adjust the lifter preload correctly.
Can end up with a locked up lifter plunger and no cylinder compression
The lifters fill all by them selfs very quickly on engine start up.
Just coat the foot with moly paste oil up the rest of it and drop them in.

Be sure to oil up the rocker arms too.

Dipping the roller wheel end of roller lifters in oil and letting the oil soak in to the roller bearing is good stuff but filling the internal cavity in the lifter is not.

You can soak your roller rocker arms in oil to your hearts content.
Ok just ended up ordering a new timing gasket and cover with 10 new screws. And the bottom gasket of the timing cover.... my question is what seal or gasket filler maker do I use for the timing cover, also what sealant do I use for the fuel pump, water pump, intake manifold if different...
05-29-2012 09:11 AM
F-BIRD'88 Filling the internal volume of the lifter with oil prior to install is not nessessary
or advised
And can make it real hard to adjust the lifter preload correctly.
Can end up with a locked up lifter plunger and no cylinder compression
The lifters fill all by them selfs very quickly on engine start up.
Just coat the foot with moly paste oil up the rest of it and drop them in.

Be sure to oil up the rocker arms too.

Dipping the roller wheel end of roller lifters in oil and letting the oil soak in to the roller bearing is good stuff but filling the internal cavity in the lifter is not.

You can soak your roller rocker arms in oil to your hearts content.
05-28-2012 08:16 PM
kingofny1997
Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88
paint the cam lobes with moly disulfide paste. (isky rev lube or crane cam lube) (grey moly paste) Moly Slip paste.

Use a converntional dino oil preferably with a high zinc additive.
Many "racing oil" oils have more zinc. Mot all off the shelf retail automotive oils have less zinc now.
GM EOS or Crane Super Lube break in lube is good stuff too.
Save the royal purple for latter.

www.molyslip.com
www.cranecams.com
www.iskycams.com

But reguarless you want the moly paste (moly disulfide) on the cam lobes.

Get the engine started and running quickly without a lot of cranking and run at 2000+rpm for about 1/2 hour. SO the cam gets friendly with the lifters without scuffing.

You can get the moly paste under various bands and packaging.
Most automotive lubricant companies make it.

Don;t forget the dip the lifters in oil ( do not fill the lifters just dip them.
And oil lube the rockers. The whole idea is to avoid dry start scuffing.
I ordered the crane cam moly lube, and gaskets I needed,

But my question is you said "Dip the lifter, (do not fill the lifters just dip them)
I've always heard to fill up a little bucket with motor oil and drop them in their and let them sit in their for 3-6 hrs, then when going to install put the assembly lube on the bottom..and install..
05-27-2012 01:13 PM
F-BIRD'88
Quote:
Originally Posted by kingofny1997
Ok, well got the cam today with the lifters , I got permatex ultra slick red assembly lbe, and the lifter came with assembly lube do I use my assembly lube or the one that came with the cam
paint the cam lobes with moly disulfide paste. (isky rev lube or crane cam lube) (grey moly paste) Moly Slip paste.

Use a converntional dino oil preferably with a high zinc additive.
Many "racing oil" oils have more zinc. Mot all off the shelf retail automotive oils have less zinc now.
GM EOS or Crane Super Lube break in lube is good stuff too.
Save the royal purple for latter.

www.molyslip.com
www.cranecams.com
www.iskycams.com

But reguarless you want the moly paste (moly disulfide) on the cam lobes.

Get the engine started and running quickly without a lot of cranking and run at 2000+rpm for about 1/2 hour. SO the cam gets friendly with the lifters without scuffing.

You can get the moly paste under various bands and packaging.
Most automotive lubricant companies make it.

Don;t forget the dip the lifters in oil ( do not fill the lifters just dip them.
And oil lube the rockers. The whole idea is to avoid dry start scuffing.
05-26-2012 08:43 PM
kingofny1997 Ok, well got the cam today with the lifters , I got permatex ultra slick red assembly lbe, and the lifter came with assembly lube do I use my assembly lube or the one that came with the cam
05-24-2012 07:30 PM
kingofny1997 Just ordered the sum-1103 with lifter at 99.95 and hyped about it,
Wanted to know since I already have the fuel pump out due to removal of camshaft, should I get a new one since, the car sat for 6 yrs, and at anytime it could go and since I need to put a new gasket since I took of the fuel pump...also is their a gasket kit for reasonable price , instead of buying everything separate (valve,intake manifold,water pump,fuel pump, timing gasket set) ????

Also I read on a couple of these sites that they recommend to not run synthetic oil while break in, but I have 10w-30 royal purple synthetic oil (no zinc), so what should I do (valvoline vr1 oil with the break in cam oil) or what help..thanks firebird and fellas
05-24-2012 02:58 PM
kingofny1997
Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88
The cams I pointed to for you are not rough idle cams.
The idle is very tame and they work with a stock torque
converter. More power than your choices.

Howards has very similar equal cams at good prices too.
I like Howards cams
. have a look www.howardscams.com

Yes your milder cam choices the top end will tapper off a good bit sooner.

The cams I selected for you are good to 5000+rpm.
I have used then all at one point or another.
Thanks Summit 1103 defently considered, seen a video of how it sounds on a chevy 350 sweet, also for $100 for the kit, great Deal!!
05-24-2012 12:43 PM
F-BIRD'88 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ISK-201264-27112/

Another nice cam for you.

Isky stuff is A-1. Worth the price.
05-24-2012 11:17 AM
F-BIRD'88 The cams I pointed to for you are not rough idle cams.
The idle is very tame and they work with a stock torque
converter. More power than your choices.

Howards has very similar equal cams at good prices too.
I like Howards cams
. have a look www.howardscams.com

Yes your milder cam choices the top end will tapper off a good bit sooner.

The cams I selected for you are good to 5000+rpm.
I have used then all at one point or another.
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