|Yesterday 11:58 AM|
yeah that always the case.....windshield parts too are that size
I need to keep this momentum going.....
.I think I am going to install the rest of the interior panels it keeps them flat and out of the way and I can always take them out right before the chassis drop if I need to. first to flatten them out.....I did this last year also when I moved the boxes out side and it works pretty well.
I think what happened is the vinyl shrunk and pulled the fiber board out of shape
you would be surprised how warm stuff gets in black plastic in the sun and then we add compression to stretch every thing into compliance
|06-28-2016 08:51 PM|
|BuzzLOL||I have one oddball B/S socket I had to buy to fit something on the MG Midget... No SAE or Metric socket would fit...|
|06-28-2016 08:35 PM|
excellent the car has BSF, whitworth and SAE stuff......the brakes, carbs, hydraulic can have the BSF and whitworth.....almost every thing else is SAE. the head studs are SAE NF
the vinyl is boat/automotive grade and the Glue is a landau top HHR (high heat applications) adhesive, we should be good to go on that account.
lets trim out the rear area and glue some stuff down...
i am not sure how the rear tire opening trim ring is suppose to look any body have any pictures how the fabric is wrapped around it inside the boot?
seems to me the battery tray carpet doesnt need to be fully glued since you have to be able to get at the DZUS fasteners and it gets stuck under the tire carpet.
i imagine since the tire doesnt protrude fully through the hole i may need to pad the carpet to get a nice tight fitting look.
holes punched for seat belt hardware
glue bulkhead piece
glue leading edge of battery tray cover carpet and vinyl
notched for the parcel shelf
original holes for the #4 screws, i thought i would have to go up to a number 6 but so far the holes are still "tight", the screws are loose and i am letting the trim panel get use to its new shape before i screw them down. you can see my panel hole marker, i am on my second thumb tack the first one was not very well made.
i think i will trim above the panel closest to the bulk head in either headliner material or grey vinyl so the red paint is not visible
|06-27-2016 06:20 AM|
|Arns85GT||Not having owned and MG hardtop, what occurs to me when I look at your rear window, is heat issues. That amount of curved glass might make that rear shelf pretty hot. Is the adhesive used for the carpet able to take heat?|
|06-26-2016 11:50 PM|
Your Acorn Nuts with Whitworth threads can be found on Ebay
|06-26-2016 05:15 PM|
and this week the carpet pieces came for behind the rear seat area..so lets test fit the pieces and see what i have. my goal is to have the coupe interior trimmed out as much as i can before i put the body on the chassis
|06-26-2016 04:50 PM|
this build car is all original or close to it so its not getting many upgrades.
one of my last builds was a resto mod stingray, so this build is more of an original build....warts and all...
vacuum line done, i wonder if i can find an acorn nut to hold the vacuum line clip, i also think i can do better then a rubber vacuum tube at the carb end
|06-26-2016 11:35 AM|
A truly lovely build. I have a un-touched '61 Mark l Midget sitting outside the shop with problem with the registration. It may have to go for a parts car.My bad.
A question though. Why didn't you upgrade the ignition system to something more reliable? Electronic dist and such. One only has to think as Lucas as the electrical people with a sense of humor to reconsider upgrading.
|06-26-2016 11:05 AM|
it has been removed from my memory and replaced with a better day
move on to install rebuilt distributor
one of the reasons for the rebuild that and a dead vacuum cannister
back from Jeff Schemmel Advanced distributor
a thing of beauty
i thought i painted these before but i guess not
now to let it cool and i will put in the vacuum line
|06-25-2016 08:22 PM|
|06-25-2016 07:17 PM|
took a 5 hour break and then just kept using my thumb on the seal to press it in.so by the time my son got home just the inside middle section top was left. he used a popsicle stick in front of my pull and his hand on the seal behind the pull. 10 Minutes later we were done all told maybe 2 hours of work.
|06-25-2016 11:33 AM|
yeah the old seal was like cement...rock hard i should have known better
oh well it was just about 6-8 hours or time all told and about $240 for new glass and seal. live and learn
wow a nice new fresh gasket makes all the difference....it was like night and day soft and pliable a joy to work with.
NO HAMMERS TODAY... repeat as necessary....but no hammers!!!!!
maybe 15 minutes
mark bottom and center
the window just wasn't centered perfectly the first time...perhaps i didn't do the string pull evenly and pulled it to the right so out it came back to the table and re pack the rope and reinstall
this time it was perfect
and still need to do the top but i my son has tests to study for so we will pick it up later, its gone too well to push it alone
|06-24-2016 10:24 PM|
When trying to seat the glass and gasket I use my open hand and slap the glass to make it move.
Spreads the impact and I've never broken a screen or window in 45 years of doing it.
Pity, but I was going to suggest you should use a new seal as that one looked like getting the lock strip into it was going to be near impossible.
At least a new seal will fit and seal better.
|06-24-2016 08:40 PM|
10:34pm......we are just going to pretend it never happened
|06-24-2016 06:14 PM|
win some lose some.....
add the string for seating the gasket over the window flange
pull out rope and it seats itself well sort of...
work both sides evenly
freaking looks awesome
not so shabby if i must say so myself
well except for that.....
I never should have tried to use the old gasket or maybe the dead blow hammer either, oh well $185 for the windshield $80 for the gasket
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