|01-18-2015 02:42 PM|
well it was a busy day today
here is the manmade hole surprisingly located underneath the first barrel bolt of the door frame.
body dollys come in all different shapes and sizes this has a radius side and a flat side
hammer from the inside "on dolly', this means the hammer hits the metal on the support dolly, off dolly means the hammer hits the metal but the dolly is not behind the striking hammer
first go around
skimmed with fiberglass
now to the work that got me no where......my son, wife, granddaughter and dog are in between apartments so they will stay with us for a short time and the garage will be used for storage
built a frame for storing the body on top of the chassis
lift the current car body and frame up on to 12 ton jack stands about 24" tall
we got the heights with in 1/2" of each other then my son and son inlaw just got on either end and picked it up on to the new frame
you can see how high up the blue jack stands are these were under the old car frame
|01-17-2015 01:17 PM|
lets take care of some pin holes
the flash light shows the spots, after much deliberation I decide to plug them this is about 1.5 hrs of work
I made a nice big backing plate wrapped in copper
grind the area and plug the holes
once again after final grinding when you think you are done do the flash light test
nice skim coat of fiber glass and time to move on to the next spot, I need to remove a bracket to knock that "hole" flat and the screw is frozen on the bracket so its soaking
|01-15-2015 01:21 PM|
|01-12-2015 08:00 AM|
Hi, I have been following your restoration with interest. Your work is really a wonderful example of how to do things right and my hat is off to you.
I do have a question however.
On page 36 you stated "wiped down fender with a wax and degreaser and move to the black primer stage"
I have always found that any wax product screwed up my paint work in a major "pain the neck" way, so I am surprised to see you use it.
Please explain how this works. I am somewhat intrigued.
|01-11-2015 12:20 PM|
when in doubt take more stuff apart
bottom looks really good
lets take out a crease
crease removed and lip folded back over again
just like the other side
a few spots to repair on the bottom
|01-10-2015 11:46 AM|
17* outside and a slight breeze.....flannel lined pants, shirt, 2 hooded sweat shirts, jacket, gloves goggles to cover the eyes since they were freezing....it was cold!
sanded the doors, a little more to do but too cold out side
|01-09-2015 01:52 PM|
definitely more delicate....
remaining door lock hardware came off today and time to sand the remaining paint off, tomorrow the doors will come off and I will sand the doors out side
and while cleaning up I found a spacer on the floor???? does any one recognize it. it has flecks of blue paint on it......you know my son just brought over a blue pallet fork lift and it has a broken hand release mechanism and we were turning it over to look at it....any way does any one recognize this? I clean up regularly so it has to be some thing I have done recently worked on.
|01-09-2015 11:18 AM|
I thought this is a planishing hammer, rather more delicate than the one you used.
|01-09-2015 11:02 AM|
today I cleaned up the door windows and packaged them up for safe keeping. the question was posed to me would a planishng hammer work well to remove a crease. this was the go to tool back in the 30 and 40s to remove creases when the metal was good quality and pretty thick...so lets see how it does on an mga body panel
lets make a crease
about 1 minute on the planishing hammer
heres the rub the distortion it introduces
so with very little effort the crease is gone but some distortion is introduced.... I didn't take any time with this and did it very quickly you may be able to go slower and find the sweet spot to stop at or just add some heat to shrink the metal.
|12-28-2014 06:41 PM|
this is whats left of the window seal
so now i move on to the pass side with my new found knowledge of whats holding it down....well after enough of sticking my hand every where I could think I found this position for the back barrel bolt
I tried every conceivable way to get at the front barrel bolt but an inner door support was in the way no matter how I moved my hands. strangely there was a 3/8" hole in the bottom of the door in the area of those two barrel bolts but I still couldn't get at the front one.
so I marked the location of the barrel bolt using the other side as the guide
so I made an access opening
can you see the support bracket the barrel bolt is sitting on?
and my access window
and it slipped off the bracket as I loosened it and moved down
loosen up the caulking
and I win, if you had any sort of a seal left you would need to remove the horizontal chrome finishing piece that covers it
|12-28-2014 10:48 AM|
lets get all the door handle and locking mechanism components out
use a tooth brush to clean the threads off no need to make the situation any harder then hit with PB blaster
and of course the lock retaining nut is 9/16W which is just a tad bigger then 1" the key code is stamped on the cylinder, the key cylinder retaining nut will slip off the back after the small bolt is removed and the cylinder will come out
and lastly letting the door handle machine screws soak for a little while
these door mechanisms are a PITA most due to the cramped space
|12-27-2014 03:09 PM|
removed the door glass and frame from the drivers side.....no matter how much I read the instructions in the shop manual I could make no sense out them.....so I just did it my way....
some screws holding things down
the rivets hold the door skin to the metal frame, I drilled them out because I wasn't sure
the usual grinding was required to remove several bolts
I found what a barrel nut was the hard way, there was a screw holding the front of the trim down and I couldn't figure out how to get at so after a couple hours of frustration I cut it
a barrel nut
this is where the barrel nut attaches inside the door frame.....I have no idea how you are suppose to get to it though. I will see if I can figure a different way on the pass side now that I know how it all fits together
|12-21-2014 02:08 PM|
mission today is the drivers side shut face panel and the rear light plinth
sanded and primed
new piece test fit
|12-20-2014 02:21 PM|
todays chore is to mount the drivers side fender and inner fender and use all bolts and fully "model" the fit
chase all the holes and bolts
it may be a combination of adjusting all the holes not just the bottom ones....I will look at that again tomorrow
|12-19-2014 07:51 PM|
well somehow 2 weeks ago I hurt my back doing pretty much nothing????? so its been slow for me since then but today I went back at it , kind of light but any way...the task is to fully model the pass side front fender and inner splash guard
give a quick sand to the body filler and prime it
who would have thought that the inner fender splash guard holes would not be universal to all MGA's? since my inner fenders are off of a newer model the caged nuts are in slightly different locations......this is why you test fit everything before final painting
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