|Yesterday 09:05 PM|
the hand crank is 5/8" round stock and gets mounted on the bulk head that separates the trunk from the pass compartment
|Yesterday 11:19 AM|
|Yesterday 11:10 AM|
I agree, I am not sure where you are referring to , any paint on the exhaust manifold was manifold paint. I cant think where there is lacquer paint on any exhaust parts
|Yesterday 11:08 AM|
some quick work this am in preparation for putting fenders on
drill out a hole
drilled and touched up
end caps drill holes touched up, drill shavings vacuumed out
end caps in place
|11-25-2015 07:14 AM|
|Arns85GT||I'm curious about your choice of lacquer on what appears to be the exhaust pipe. I don't think lacquer is going to like the heat. What's your thinking?|
|11-24-2015 07:07 PM|
my son and I popped the door off and swapped the hinges and it made all the differences, I did stamp the hinges for P and D , but forgot to stamp a top and bottom mark.
if you look closely you can see the difference in the two halves of the same hinge
the one on the left has a slight twist in it
and the alignment with out us trying to do anything to improve it.
|11-24-2015 01:40 PM|
goal for this weekend is to have all fenders on......so i need to wrap up some loose ends
so lets paint the end caps and while i am at it the hand crank
it was strange i wiped down the hand crank with lacquer thinner to see it had been painted with some thing else over the last 50 years and no lacquer paint color came off, which is usually a sign it has some other paint on it....lacquer paint is temperamental this way and it prefers to only go over lacquer or a good primer sealer ..so i sanded/scuffed it primed it then used a primer sealer and took a chance i wouldn't have a paint incompatibility issue
it doesn't look like i have any issues with paint incompatibility on the hand crank. i am pleasantly surprised.
|11-22-2015 11:51 AM|
boot prop rod installed
boot installed...you can tighten the bolts from the inside, so aligning is easier
I may be able to close this up some more
how I finally did the split rivets
a shaft for under the rivets held in the vise
|11-21-2015 03:21 PM|
busy day today...
painted boot prop rod black
my son and I made end caps, mine will be removable for inspection purposes, I also made my internal inner sill supports be parallel to the frame so you can look from one end to the other. still need to be painted
tried my hand at making a rivet split tool....I am not sure I was successful....
these are a PITA to do.....this will be done during the week one panel at time with a brewski
polished the car for the last time
lets get the doors on
I am not going to sand the rocker sill to much scuffing so I am going to leave all the clear coat on it
lets buff it before the door rough fit
|11-20-2015 10:13 PM|
i had to break out the 3" DA tonight just too many small spots that interfere with buffing
its really good for the small curved areas
and I now know why the one side of the top pillar posts are pushed down.....its the only way to buff that angle
I also got one complete polishing in with the softest pad....just need to repeat it one more time to make sure I didn't miss anything then the doors go on.
|11-19-2015 09:23 PM|
I am glad it helps, hopefully this thread will help others tackle some projects they were scared of...
the goal is to finish the out side of the body buffing so I can put the doors and fenders on
so after all the work sanding and buffing the car had great reflectivity but that was only about 60% of where we can go....look at the first pictures closely, the dull areas were present in those pictures with the great reflectivity. so the idea is to bring those up to the same level of the shiney spots. great terminology....
so 3 hours tonight with the DA, this is a Harbor Freight DA for $45. I have an expensive Griots Garage DA but I wanted to try the inexpensive one and let it do all the hard work and save my good one for the easy polishing jobs.
so tonight #84 with orange hard cutting pad, 2 passes , #84 with the white light cutting pad 2 passes, and #83 with yellow buffing pad. tomorrow night will finish it with the #82 swirl remover with a finishing pad. I am sure the professional compress this time but since I do this not as regularly as them I just go slower so I don't screw up the work I have done
its the haziness under the window and to the right of the window
and after buffing and polishing
same spot after the work
|11-19-2015 08:04 AM|
I was contemplating a colour change on my ride. But, seeing the extent of your excellent work I think I won't do it. The number of panels to do it right are more than what I want to do on my daily driver.
What is really valuable to me is your description of applying your clear coat. It fills out my understanding and I think I'll have a better finish for having read your descriptions. Thank you
|11-18-2015 10:26 PM|
so it occurred to me once the body polishing is done I could put the doors and fenders on.....but not until I paint the door hinges and spacers, I cleaned them last week so they are ready to get primed and painted, used self etching primer
its a 65* night and humidity is within tolerances
|11-18-2015 07:55 AM|
the Caddy option
I know that the 215 ci Old engine is the classic, however if room allows, the aluminum block Cadillac 4.9L is another good choice. They come at 200 hp out of the box at 275 ftlbs and I am using one with a HEI dizzy and a Holley 600 carb and it is well north of 200 hp. I dyno'd it with a 2 barrel at 215 but with the bigger carb it is higher again. You might want to look at it due to the weight factor vs power, and it runs real good on regular gas. This one is in a Fiero
|11-18-2015 05:38 AM|
|496CHEVY3100||That s looking Great.makes me want to get started on my MGB I want a 215 Olds v8 aluminum engine in it , but I have to do the 55 chevy first|
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