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Topic Review (Newest First)
06-10-2012 12:13 PM
123pugsy
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lizer
I've still yet to find what everyone finds so amazing about these shrinking disc. I have Wolfe's 4.5" disc and it's the most worthless thing I have in my toolbox.
Try a 7 or 8" one.
They do move metal quickly.

For the OP, try using a soldering torch first so you don't overheat metal. Just warm up about a 2" area and drop a wet rag on it and check if it moved.

Do not change the color of the metal.
06-10-2012 11:55 AM
Lizer I've still yet to find what everyone finds so amazing about these shrinking disc. I have Wolfe's 4.5" disc and it's the most worthless thing I have in my toolbox.
06-09-2012 08:48 PM
rusthater89 I recommend a shrinking disc. Once I used one I never looked back. I actually use it whenever I finish my hammer and dolly work. It really does the trick. The disc will target the high spots bringing them down lower and then you can beat the underside to bring the low spots up and repeat the shrinking application. It really helps to smooth out the hammer marks.
06-05-2012 08:44 PM
MARTINSR
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nonhog
Our 262C is perfect for my wife. She's 5 feet tall. Its a bit tight for me I'm 6'
Cool thing is the body and interior are very nice. If I could just finish the 5.0 install. LOL

Never seen a blue one. NICE!

http://brickspeed.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=1784


So body experts if I manage to mangle my body work on this fender.
Would it be within reason to take a patch from another Volvo and weld it in?
I've done well on patches before. Just a thought?
Wow, very cool!

Brian
06-05-2012 08:37 PM
Chevymon
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nonhog
if I manage to mangle my body work on this fender.
Would it be within reason to take a patch from another Volvo and weld it in?
I've done well on patches before. Just a thought?
You almost have it, just a little shrinking. Don't over heat and take it slow, it will take several attempts.
06-05-2012 07:46 PM
Nonhog Our 262C is perfect for my wife. She's 5 feet tall. Its a bit tight for me I'm 6'
Cool thing is the body and interior are very nice. If I could just finish the 5.0 install. LOL

Never seen a blue one. NICE!

http://brickspeed.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=1784


So body experts if I manage to mangle my body work on this fender.
Would it be within reason to take a patch from another Volvo and weld it in?
I've done well on patches before. Just a thought?
06-05-2012 07:38 PM
MARTINSR I always wanted a 262C

Brian

06-05-2012 07:12 PM
Prof. T. Soggmeyer Don't hurt that grill! you can't get em anywhere! My 164 was a rocket. My 264 sounds like a vacuum cleaner, still quick though and has 85,000 original miles.
Brad...
06-04-2012 11:47 PM
Nonhog Good eye!
The day we picked it up. Thinking it might be more of a hot rod w/ an LS swap.
Not in any rush. Have to finish the 5.0 Bertone swap 1st.
06-04-2012 10:32 PM
Prof. T. Soggmeyer
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nonhog
Thanks for all the reply's. Keep 'em coming. I find that I learn stuff going over the same thing when somebody phrases it different than I've read before.
I do lurk on a few metal sites. I like the All metalshaping the best.
I know I can learn this stuff I've been doing well at banging dents out its the ones with creases that are really hard.
I tried to blow up a pic as a "before" but to really understand I'll snap some pics tonight with a straight edge and maybe a pic or 2 from the good side.

Thanks again!
That looks like a volvo 164. I used to own one. Had it for a long time, that straight six was a screamer. I have a 264 now, still a nice car but not as much fun.
Brad...
06-04-2012 10:27 PM
Nonhog Love the responce! Watched some videos and more that I found.
Quick question: Instead of my Oxy/Act torch (not done setting up)
Mapp gas o.k.?

Some pics from tonight.
Last one is from good side.
06-04-2012 09:04 PM
MARTINSR Old bodyman, you are right if all one want to do is shrink some metal so it isn't oil canning then cover it with plastic filler. But if one wants move forward in the tin forming skills you toss the shrinking hammer in the trash or grind it smooth like I did. It isn't perfectly smooth honestly because I have a lot of hammers and when I need a real nice smooth hammer I have others to use. This one is still for "roughing" out work.



You can do the exact same thing gathering metal with a glancing blow with a flat hammer. I am by no means a tin master, but I would like to be and because of that I will use the smoothest tools I can on the metal I am working with to the metal remains smooth.

Brian
06-04-2012 06:46 PM
swvalcon When I went to body school back in 1971. Just the other day. The instructor told us the only thing a shrinking hammer was good for was to tenderize a steak before you put it on the grille. The old car sheet metal was a piece of cake to heat and shrink but this newer tin foil cars takes some getting use to. Just be sure to heat a small spot and don't work it to long. You can always go back in and reheat if its not enough. Alot easier than fixing a warped panel because you got it to hot.
06-04-2012 06:23 PM
oldBodyman "The next step would be where you see the guy hitting right around the edge of the heated area "Pushing" metal into the most heated area. "

THAT is exactly what a serrated face shrinking hammer is for, better traction for glancing hits to push the metal into the heat. They are definitely NOT for on-dolly hits trying to waffle the metal. No need to throw them out, just use them correctly.

I would suggest you search the web for Martin Hammer's how-to booklet, lots of good stuff in it from the 1930's.

Be careful shrinking, most people go too far with it.
06-04-2012 06:04 PM
Chevymon
Quote:
Originally Posted by milo
I see a lot of guys from here making youtubes, (hint hint) they sure help when trying to explain stuff that words can't explain.. we'll see ya
Yea, we'll see ya, Brian
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