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Topic Review (Newest First)
10-27-2012 05:26 PM
ToocoolZ28
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lizer View Post
It takes me about 15 minutes to do a complete tear down clean out, and that's even cleaning the cup (not disposable) and the paint can pour spout.

I dump about an ounce of lacquer thinner in the cup, put the lid on, and shake it for about 10 seconds. Then I pull the trigger and let it drain out the gun.

I dump about another ounce of lacquer thinner in the cup, shake again, then hook the gun up to air and spray it out. Now 90% of the paint is out.

At this point I dump another ounce or two into a plastic bowl (like a clean cottage cheese container), break down the gun and toss the air cap and tip in there. I brush down the outside and stick a little brush on the insides real quick just to make sure there's nothing inside. Then I dip a paper towel into that lacquer thinner and do a final wipe out of the cup, just to ensure it's clean, and also wipe down the gun. I also wipe the needle and add more lube if necessary.

Then I put the gun back together, spray some air through it to blow out any trace lacquer thinner and dry it out and it's completely clean for the next time.

Because I'm cheap, I reuse my lacquer thinner by straining it through a paint strainer into another container. This is what I'll use for the first initial clean out of the gun right after it's been used.
Exactly how I do it. Ive been using the same Binks #7 gun since 1982, I used to use it for primer and paint but now its just my primer gun. It still looks almost new.
Ron
09-28-2012 07:27 AM
timothale
tube extender,

I have some clear tubing I buy at the Farm store that just slips over the intake tube on my binks and devilbiss guns, I cut the end of about a 3 in long piece the tubing from each side so it is to a point, When I have wiped out the cup and paint off the gun I slip the tube on and put some thinner in the cup, lock the gun back together, shake it good and spray, the tubing will (snug fit) sucks out all the thinner,
09-28-2012 05:17 AM
da34guy Been throwin mine in a gun cleaning machine for over 25years.
15 minutes in the machine and hang em back up, ready to use again.
Have a few Sata's that are over 20 years old that still look and work as new.
09-27-2012 05:08 PM
777funk Been using the Carb Cleaner and straw since this thread. Works GREAT! Love it. I always wear safety glasses just incase. It really shoots all over the place when you spray inside the gun parts. But great and fast!

Thanks for the tip.

I'd guess lacquer thinner propelled through a straw would work just as good. I wonder if there's an air pressured container that one could connect a straw and spray with. My thinner is about $10/gallon in 5's ($50 per 5). The cheap stuff is a little less. A gallon is 128 oz. I'd guess the carb can is about 12. So that'd be about $21 a gallon at that price. Maybe it's not worth the cost savings. The can is pretty convenient!
06-10-2012 10:49 AM
mitmaks That is why I like Naked gun, it's formulated not to harm rubber or any o-rings/packings.
06-10-2012 06:48 AM
deadbodyman Carb's have rubber and plastic seals too,so its works great on guns even the ones with seals
06-09-2012 11:33 PM
DanielC If there are any "rubber" "O" rings in the gun, acetone is very hard on them.
06-09-2012 09:05 PM
rusthater89 I don't know if this is recommended but I just use acetone.
06-09-2012 06:31 PM
mitmaks I used Naked Gun, works pretty good. You can leave your gun soaking in it overnight and then just brush and wipe it off. It won't damage packings
06-08-2012 10:51 AM
cyclopsblown34 I usually clean them as soon as I'm done using them or between coats. A little swish of reducer or thinner run through a couple of times, disassemble it and hit the innards with air from an air gun and they're clean and good to go. The trick is catching the material while it's fluid and it makes clean up way easier. I like Michel's method of the carb tip, unfortunately my guns have them plastic seals of fluid tip to the body and it doesn't hold up well to any aggressive solvents.
06-08-2012 05:09 AM
deadbodyman It happens a lot as the gun gets older and the seal wears out a little and you have to keep tightening the nut to keep the needle seal from leaking,you need gun lube but just on the needle, it wont get inside the gun. I'm a little lazy when it comes to gun cleaning but I need a clean gun so I swish some thinner around in the cup and pull the trigger running the thinner through the gun I do this twice.then drop the gun in a 5 gal bucket of carb cleaner (put a wooden wedge in to hold the trigger all the way back)so the cleaner goes into the gun, then cover the bucket back up and forget about it...you dont waste anything...its almost as good and ez as a gun cleaning machine....If you want to get fancy put some of that diamond mesh in the bottom of the bucket about 2-4" off the bottom so paint can settle at the bottom and it keeps the gun out of the goo that settles at the bottom...when the goo gets a little thick just run the old carb cleaner through a strainer into another bucket and reuse it....Your guns will be clean as a whistle all the time and you hardly ever have to take them apart,most times I take them apart they dont need any cleaning but I just like to be sure....Everyone thinks I'm anal but cleaning my guns because they look so clean but the truth is I rarly get a brush out and basicly just dry them off with a paper shop towel,the carb cleaner does all the work....
06-07-2012 06:43 AM
Lizer This is lubricant that is formulated for paint guns and it goes about halfway down the needle shaft where it contacts a boss inside the gun. If this is not lubricated the trigger/needle may not operate properly and it sticks which results in not closing when you release the trigger. It's happened to me once.
06-07-2012 06:07 AM
novafreek6872 I know alot of people do it, but I just cant bring myself to use any kind of lube any where near a paint gun. Scary!

andy
06-06-2012 09:41 PM
Lizer It takes me about 15 minutes to do a complete tear down clean out, and that's even cleaning the cup (not disposable) and the paint can pour spout.

I dump about an ounce of lacquer thinner in the cup, put the lid on, and shake it for about 10 seconds. Then I pull the trigger and let it drain out the gun.

I dump about another ounce of lacquer thinner in the cup, shake again, then hook the gun up to air and spray it out. Now 90% of the paint is out.

At this point I dump another ounce or two into a plastic bowl (like a clean cottage cheese container), break down the gun and toss the air cap and tip in there. I brush down the outside and stick a little brush on the insides real quick just to make sure there's nothing inside. Then I dip a paper towel into that lacquer thinner and do a final wipe out of the cup, just to ensure it's clean, and also wipe down the gun. I also wipe the needle and add more lube if necessary.

Then I put the gun back together, spray some air through it to blow out any trace lacquer thinner and dry it out and it's completely clean for the next time.

Because I'm cheap, I reuse my lacquer thinner by straining it through a paint strainer into another container. This is what I'll use for the first initial clean out of the gun right after it's been used.
06-06-2012 08:53 PM
mr4speed The best part of cleaning with the carb cleaner is that you can use that straw it comes with to get in all those small passages and it dissolves any paint , clear, or primer pretty quickly. No need to get out all those tiny brushes, I clean my guns probably once or twice a year with a full breakdown. That is how good the carb cleaner really works.
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