|06-30-2012 12:21 AM|
I had a case on my Mustang with the fuel gauge, oil pressure gauge and temp gauge all working for 5 minutes on, then 15off, then 5 on, then off again.
AS these gauges are 6v in a 12 volt system i used an electronic 12v to 6v electronic regulator to run 3 gauges. You need 1 electronic reculator per gauge. The reg would heat up and cut out under overload, cool down and then function normally again.
Bootom line; 1 reg per 6v gauge for old Mustangs with 6v gauges.
|06-29-2012 07:05 PM|
fixed oil pressure gauge with new sending unit.
replaced temperature gauge and all is fixed now.
Thanks for the tips 67Mustang Al.
|06-09-2012 02:24 AM|
temp senders can be tested on the bench immersed in a cup of boiling water hooked up to a multimeter using ohms for resistance. The meter will change as the temp drops if the sender is ok.
|06-09-2012 02:14 AM|
I would try an extra earth wire from the gauges to chassis somewhere . If the senders in the engine block/head meter out ok when tested then it has to be the end of the gauges.
|06-07-2012 09:49 PM|
Need help with temp and oil pressure gauge
It's a 1986 Firebird.
Oil pressure gauge: With key on, it doesn't blip to max then back to zero. When I start the car it always goes to 60 psi and stays there.
-with IGN on, I can get the needle to max when I disconnect sender wire.
-IGN on and sender wire grounded to negative battery it stays at 0.
Temp gauge: ign on, it never blips to max then back to 100. When I'm letting it warm up in park, I can see the gauge start to move higher a little bit (like it's working fine), then whenever I hit the brakes the needle goes straight to zero.
-can't get gauge to max when sender wire is disconnected.
-gauge stays at the bottom when grounded (100 degrees)
The rest of the gauges work fine.
I don't know what to do next.