|06-13-2012 10:29 AM|
|tech69||great advice, guys and nice work.|
|06-12-2012 06:03 PM|
|deadbodyman||First you start with the outer skin get it fitted with the lips folded at a 90 degree angle , use a couple drill screws to hold it in place ,they'll also help you remove and replace it in the same spot every time...Once the outer skin is set in place you can remove the inner piece and know exactly where it goes according to the outterskin thats already in place...When you have the inner all welded in you remove the outter skin and and work the back side of the inner you just welded in,then get it epoxied then epoxy the outter skins backside and put it on with the screws (I like using a flanged lap joint so it wont warp plus you need it when you use screws...fold the skin over with the skinning hammer or a cheap body hammer that you ground one side straight so it will skin better (but not near as good as a skinning hammer) and the dolly then weld up the seam...I use plug welds every two inches and then weld the seam all the way across one spot weld at a time...|
|06-12-2012 02:43 PM|
Here is a "Basics" on door skins (click here) which is basically what you are doing, half of a door skin. Sanding the edge as described in the "basics" would be a big help so it will fold easier.
|06-12-2012 12:01 PM|
|tech69||I like to view it as moving it in 3 increments. Do one increment all over, then do two all over, then hammer it down flat. This way you won't damage the outer skin. When you're doing a patch skin sometimes it's gonna wanna suck down on you so you have to prop it up to the proper contour before welding, especially true if you flange the existing old metal. If you flange the lower small patch like that you may stretch it and the bottom edge of the door won't be straight. Another option is a backing strip but I usually just flange it and deal with propping it up when needed. Not usually a big deal but something to account for. Also make sure your door frame has an even flange that's straight. If it's not straight your metal you are folding may follow it's shape.|
|06-12-2012 09:39 AM|
Hi,when i did this,i clamped the door skin to match up with the cut skin,then marked the bottom (NEW PIECE),then made my bottom fold before welding the top seam,i made the NEW PIECE about 1/4 inch longer,then ground that piece to match the original door skin.
|06-12-2012 09:21 AM|
There is more than one way to skin a Cat-I use a regular Body Hammer, but they make a Hammer specifically to do this-anyway, I will start at one end of the 'Skin, and start the edge folding with the Hammer, backing it with either a rubber Dolley, or a rubber Trowel so that I don't mar the outer skin, slowly working the edge over the inner Door Panel-take it slow, fold a little at a time, and work your way around the Door-you don't want to try to fold it all over in one place, just work your way around the Door-
Here's what a Door Skin Hammer looks like-
|06-12-2012 08:39 AM|
Door Skin Patch Panel Install Question
I am trying to repair the bottom of a 1958 Chevy truck door. I have installed the inner door patch panel and am at the point where I am ready to install the outer patch panel but would appreciate some guideance from someone familar with this repair.
I have tacked the upper seam in place but the proper/best method to fold the edges over the door shell escapes me.
Anyone out there familar with this?