|06-26-2012 12:00 AM|
|tech69||I remember this loud mouth sales rep was clowning on me for my seam sealer selection and said the shop should order this certain kind that sets up so it looks factory like Toyota seam sealer for skins where it looks like a strip. He saw me applying the tape and had this smurk on his face cause I told him I already can make it look factory. So I applied it with my twisted up pieces of paper towels in wait and he had this arrogant look on his face up until he saw me carefully wiping up the stringy pieces that stuck to the tape. Damn sales rep...can tell about every component in a product and how to apply it to manufacture recommendation but YOU have to tell him what's revellevant and how to REALLY apply it.|
|06-24-2012 11:01 PM|
You are very welcome, thanks for the kind words.
|06-24-2012 06:46 PM|
[QUOTE=MARTINSR]Here is the "Basics of Basics" on seam sealers. (click here)
Once again Martinsr, whether you know it or not, You have taught me a lot. Good link on the basic of basics on seam sealers. Mostly common sense but a lot better than trying to figure it out myself! Thanks for all help you give me and everyone.
|06-12-2012 07:37 PM|
thanks for the info folks. I'm glad I didn't get a bunch of weird looks for using my finger. My seams don't look as nice as I'd like to but I don't know what else I would have expected in my first time using this stuff.
The people at the store advised me against the self-leveling only because it is so difficult for a n00b to use as you guys have attested to. That and by that point I was already walking out with $150 of materials between the gun, two tubes of sealer, and a bag of extra tips.
Which by the way, PlioGrip makes the gun for 3M as well, except the PlioGrip gun costs $50 and the 3M gun costs $70. Which also means the PlioGrip and 3M seam sealers come in the same cartridge so you can actually use both with the same gun. I had put on the Fast n Firm several years ago as well as the 3M brushable. Both were crap and have been cracking. I removed what I could and this stuff works very nice.
The really nice thing about it is 0 VOC! It literally has no odor! That Fast n Firm (reminds you of when you were a teenager doesn't it? ) or brushable sealer would about knock you out if you weren't wearing a respirator.
|06-12-2012 02:26 PM|
I have done it where I literally jacked the car up to the area I was sealing was level, then slowly lowered the jack allowing it to flow where I wanted then holding it there or lifting it back up a little as it kicked.
This is a regular with those friggin Mustangs from the 80's in the trunk gutter where the damn hinges were sitting in seam sealer!
|06-12-2012 02:13 PM|
|tech69||You have great tips on that site. Another good thing to mention on that tutorial is self leveling for drip rails and making a dam.|
|06-12-2012 12:49 PM|
Here is the "Basics of Basics" on seam sealers. (click here)
|06-12-2012 12:45 PM|
|swvalcon||If you want a straight edge put a piece of 2" masking tape on each side then put down seam sealer, wipe with finger and after a min or two peel off the tape.|
|06-12-2012 12:34 AM|
|tech69||scotch brite is fine but lots of guys just seal right over it and paint.|
|06-11-2012 09:20 PM|
Tips for 2k seam sealer application?
I've just started adding some Pliogrip #6 low sag 2k seam sealer on the Mustang. Right now I'm doing the old fashioned smooth out with the finger trick then wiping any ridge down/away with a paper towel. After it set up I tried sanding it down with a red scotch brite but I can't help but think there are probably some better ways for me to do this, or even tips or favorite methods that some of you guys have.
I got one of my modeling brushes to try but by that time I had the gun setting around too long and it set up in the tip, so I just stopped for the night and will do some more later after I have more seams prepped so I get the most use out of a new tip.