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Topic Review (Newest First)
06-29-2012 10:44 PM
cobalt327
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigChevyFTW View Post
IMO get new bearings. its crazy to reuse them. some people might say go ahead but they aint got any ties to the damage that can and might occur.

first of all bearings are crush type and if you reuse them you can wind up with oil pressure issues and a spun bearing wrecks havoc on rods/crankshafts.
they are super cheap so get new ones.
if you cant catch your finger nail on the old bearings your rods should be fine and reuseable as is.
when i built my first SBC stroker in the 80s i made the mistake of assembling the engine and taking it apart a few times and not thinking of the crush on the bearings and it ended up with low oil pressure and eventually wound up spinning a bearing my machinist warned be about this but i thought they looked good and reused them. so please take it from me and get new bearings they are super cheap and great insurance as far as mains make sure they are the right ones as the discoloration you described may be due to undercut main journals.
The bearing crush is set by the main saddle ID and the bearing OD. As long as the main saddles and caps are in spec for the bearings being used, the bearings/caps can be torqued and removed any number of times w/o issue.
06-29-2012 10:41 PM
jumbo2 The bearings were not ran , they spun a rod and had it fixed then I bought it and tore it down to inspect , the crank was colored so I pulled the rod cap to confirm it was fixed , it was all good so I re torqued them , changed the pan and oil pump because some one messed with it and welded the pickup wrong so it was touching the pan . I installed a new pump with pickup HD moroso setup with 8 1/4 inch deep pan and new cam/lifters/gear drive and new gaskets and accessories . Oil pressure is 70 psi cold 25 psi at hot 220 deg idle running 10/30 oil with break in additive . The motor was basically free and replaced a tired 350 so we will see
06-29-2012 04:34 PM
BigChevyFTW IMO get new bearings. its crazy to reuse them. some people might say go ahead but they aint got any ties to the damage that can and might occur.

first of all bearings are crush type and if you reuse them you can wind up with oil pressure issues and a spun bearing wrecks havoc on rods/crankshafts.
they are super cheap so get new ones.
if you cant catch your finger nail on the old bearings your rods should be fine and reuseable as is.
when i built my first SBC stroker in the 80s i made the mistake of assembling the engine and taking it apart a few times and not thinking of the crush on the bearings and it ended up with low oil pressure and eventually wound up spinning a bearing my machinist warned be about this but i thought they looked good and reused them. so please take it from me and get new bearings they are super cheap and great insurance as far as mains make sure they are the right ones as the discoloration you described may be due to undercut main journals.
06-28-2012 05:48 PM
jumbo2 Set my hyfire 6 with 10 deg start retard and bang it lights right up instantly , will try to post video
06-28-2012 05:43 PM
cobalt327
Quote:
Originally Posted by jumbo2 View Post
well I fired it up for the 20 min cam break in and went from 1800 - 2400 for 20min , temp got up to 230deg so perfect no leaks no oil no smoke no nothing , valves were almost bang on , but had to advance the dizzy to start it and retard the timing to get a good idle 850 rpm , seems like the hyfire v1 box is blaying tricks on me ? its like I need start advance not retard unless im confused? I have to turn it clockwise about an inch to start or starter wont crank ? Its a powermaster mini but has been 100% up untill now
Turning the distributor CW retards a SBC, so that seems normal if you were using a healthy amount of initial timing.

All in all, good job.
06-27-2012 11:50 PM
jumbo2 well I fired it up for the 20 min cam break in and went from 1800 - 2400 for 20min , temp got up to 230deg so perfect no leaks no oil no smoke no nothing , valves were almost bang on , but had to advance the dizzy to start it and retard the timing to get a good idle 850 rpm , seems like the hyfire v1 box is blaying tricks on me ? its like I need start advance not retard unless im confused? I have to turn it clockwise about an inch to start or starter wont crank ? Its a powermaster mini but has been 100% up untill now
06-26-2012 09:44 PM
jumbo2
Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
Any time, jumbo2. Keeping us posted is thanks enough.
the motor is back in , got everything done , oil and anti-freez and new plugs ect im half scared to start it lol maybe tomorrow
06-19-2012 02:38 PM
cobalt327
Quote:
Originally Posted by jumbo2
It was a running motor so I don't think I need to worry too much , thanks for all your help :-)
Any time, jumbo2. Keeping us posted is thanks enough.
06-19-2012 10:12 AM
jumbo2 It was a running motor so I don't think I need to worry too much , thanks for all your help :-)
06-19-2012 12:17 AM
cobalt327
Quote:
Originally Posted by jumbo2
so I just loosen all rod bolts , then retorque all 8 to 45 ft lbs in any order and make sure there is lots of oil or just wet ? I need to do this and get motor back togther asap
Motor oil on the rod bolt threads and bearing assembly lube on the bearings and journals (or motor oil).Tighten the rods in at least two steps and rotate the crank after each cap is torqued to assure there is nothing binding.

I don't know how much you wanted to inspect and measure, but you can plastigage the rod and mains for oil clearance as well as check the crank end float and rod side play before the pan goes on.
06-18-2012 11:55 PM
jumbo2
Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
Engines I've done w/those same rods and bolts got 45 ft/lbs. Just like any other SBC w/stock 3/8" rod bolts.

You can use the 15 ft/lbs plus 70 degrees if you have access to the tool that shows degrees, I got mine at NAPA. It is kind of bulky so you may need an extension so it clears everything. The final choice is yours as to which method you use.
so I just loosen all rod bolts , then retorque all 8 to 45 ft lbs in any order and make sure there is lots of oil or just wet ? I need to do this and get motor back togther asap
06-14-2012 09:13 PM
GRIdLOCK +1 on the ARP Bolts
06-14-2012 06:25 AM
cobalt327 Engines I've done w/those same rods and bolts got 45 ft/lbs. Just like any other SBC w/stock 3/8" rod bolts.

You can use the 15 ft/lbs plus 70 degrees if you have access to the tool that shows degrees, I got mine at NAPA. It is kind of bulky so you may need an extension so it clears everything. The final choice is yours as to which method you use.
06-13-2012 11:01 PM
jumbo2
Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
Rods look like OEM powdered metal and the bolts look stock, judging by the details that can be seen, including no balancing pad on the cap, and similarities to the photos below.

IF you choose to reuse the rods as-is, I would retorque to stock specs. The reason is the bolts are knurled (not Waveloc), and the visible end does not have a dimple used to locate a stretch gauge. There are still knurled aftermarket rod bolts, and there may be knurled aftermarket rod bolts w/o a dimple for a stretch gauge, but my guess is those are stock.

But if it was me, I would have to give some hard thought to pulling the rods and having ARP bolts installed, unless the cam/redline/ how the engine will be used is such that the stock rods and bolts are deemed to be enough.




Note dimple


PM rod on right.
Note how the profile around the bolt on the rod and cap is smooth. You can compare this to yours.


Side view, PM on right.


Other side.
those are the rods on the right midle picture , block was a 98 cortec so it makes sense , cant find details on the torque specs
06-13-2012 10:59 PM
jumbo2 so Yes they are 98 vortec rods , motor was a vortec and has had probe flat tops and eagle crank installed , only thing I could find was 15ft lbs then 70 deg on the rod bolts ?

Talked to eagle crank is fine to run
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