|07-11-2012 01:09 PM|
Well I think I figured out why my car was stalling on the corners. The passenger side metering rod got bent and wasn't even inserted into the hole in the base of the carb. I haven't had a chance to take it out on a cruise since I fixed it but im hoping that fixed the cornering issue.
I readjusted the float level and the hesitation still continues. I am gonna get a tune up kit and try swapping out the step-up springs to something that will transition sooner.
|06-15-2012 02:22 PM|
|06-14-2012 04:59 AM|
Based on your original question, I'm not sure when you are feeling the carb drop out. If its during mid-throttle to full throttle you need to check the step-up springs in the Edelbrock.
These springs work against vacuum to transition the rods from cruise to power. In cruise mode vacuum pulls the rods down against the springs and the carb runs relatively lean. When vacuum drops during acceleration the springs push the rods up into power mode. If the spring pressure vs. vacuum is off, the transition to power mode is too slow. Edelbrock sells a set of springs that are rated in 3" to 8" of vacuum. A higher rated spring transitions to power mode sooner, which can help part-throttle bog.
|06-13-2012 08:35 PM|
To get the launch throttle response dialed in.
do your tuning with no vacuum advance at all.
get the initial base timing, centrifical curve and the total max mech timing
correct first. Then work in the amount and rate of vacuum advance.
The edelbrock carbs usually work best with a healthy dose of inital base timing.
24-26deg base at idle. 34-36 at max mechanical .
Limit the centrifical curve to around 10deg to allow this.
|Again the carb can be sensitive to where the PCV hose is connected to.
(front or back of the carb.) I recomend the back of the carb for the PCV.
Once you get this all tuned in you can get a fully adjustaBLE vacuum advance
and use ported vacuum as a signal source.
Stalling on hard turns.
The float setting is a starting point. You can fine tune from that as required.
and play with the fuel pressure a bit too. 5 to 6psi.
usually its cause the float is running slightly too high. or the fuel pressure
is a bit too high.
The fuel inlet needle-seat size also plays a role.
a a large needle seat assembly (.110"+) acts with more force on the float than a smaller one does. (='s less fuel control on turns)
there is also a off road spring leaded needle seat assembly for increase fuel
You can also convert the carb to dual fuel inlets ( right and left) and block the internal connecting fuel channel between the right and left bowls.
If your carb is the electric choke version
start your tuning using the default jetting of the manual choke version.
The calibration is a bit richer and will give better throttle response.
You can tune it from there.
|06-13-2012 07:07 PM|
You also need to check the accelerator pump as some of the earlier versions didn't have an alcohol resistant cup and will.
start to deteriorate. Also, these carbs are sensitive to fuel pressure with 5 to 5.5 psig max. And any dirt - that will really screw things up.
Your vacuum advance need to be hooked up to the correct port for your particular ignition system. The RHS as seen from sitting in the driver's seat is ported and the LHS is manifold vacuum. Your PB in the back is fine along with the PCV in the front
|06-13-2012 09:30 AM|
I suppose a too low level could cause it, but the level would need to be very low, being as how the jets are on the floor of the float bowl.
|06-13-2012 08:56 AM|
|06-13-2012 08:29 AM|
|06-13-2012 08:03 AM|
|06-13-2012 07:53 AM|
Be prepared to raise the idle speed w/the curb idle adjustment if the idle drops too much when the vacuum is switched to ported. But if the butterflies need to be opened too far to get the engine to idle, that puts the transition slots too exposed and the off idle response will suffer because of it. That usually happens w/a big cam.
So for now, I will suggest you try ported just to see if the problem is the vacuum advance dropping out. If it IS, the fix can be addressed. If it isn't, you have at least eliminated one thing from the possibilities, and you can look into other things, like the accelerator pump shooter or other carb problems, etc.
|06-13-2012 07:04 AM|
|06-12-2012 09:15 PM|
Different size shooters are available or drill yours. If you drill too big- which you may do if searching for the "perfect" size- solder them shut and re drill to the correct size as determined by testing. Then if you want, you might be able to buy a new shooter of the correct size or get one as close to the right size and drill it. This is because sometimes getting a good spray pattern from a soldered over and re drilled shooter is hard.
And again- you have to get a pump shot the instant the throttle linkage moves. You can buy an accelerator pump piston assembly separately, same page as above.
|06-12-2012 08:23 PM|
|06-12-2012 08:20 PM|
|zildjian4life218||Awesome thanks! I'll read through that tomorrow when I have some down time at work. Any specific reason why my car will stall if I turn hard? Usually when I turn right. I have to ride the gas to keep it from stalling.|
|06-12-2012 08:13 PM|
That 108LSA cam will want a good bit of initial base timing.
24 to 26deg 34 to 36 @max advance.
Try a slightly richer primary cruise calibration.
(smaller lean step on the metering rod, or just a larger pri main jet.)
a richer primary helps throttle response.
Make sure the pcv is connected to the back of the carb. not to the front.
no vacuum leaks. Brake booster etc
May need a larger accelerator shooter. ( drill out +.003" or edelbrock
service part shooter kit)
A afr gauge helps you dial it in.
carb spacers sometimes create throttle response issues.
trans torque converter stall speed is critical.
a stock converter won;t work very well.
3000 stall minimum....3500 stall is not too much for that cam.
When does it bog-hesitate? rolling into the throttle from cruise,,, or when you rug it hard?
rug it from idle.....
rug it from steady cruise.....
rug it from hiway cruise.....
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