|07-05-2012 07:14 PM|
Vicrod ,yes, you are correct ,the main power was contacting the ignition hot all the time.
good thing i disconnect the battery wheni am not working on the car.I went through the fuse box and all related wires.Thanks again for your help Elkay65
|07-04-2012 09:04 PM|
Do you mean that the main power was contacting the ignition bus on the fuse block thus keeping the ignition hot at all times?
|07-04-2012 07:13 PM|
vicrod and dub I found my problem,the bus bar connection from the main source was loose on
the back side of the fuse block.Body panel glue is great.
thanks you guys for all your help. Ealkay65
|07-04-2012 06:17 PM|
|EOD Guy||I installed a 70 amp Maxi fuse on the output from the Pos battery post, everything runs thru it except the cable that goes to the starter. That was the setup that came with the Painless kit I bought..... works well.|
|07-04-2012 08:36 AM|
The stock setup uses the starter as a junction point. The output from the alternator runs to the starter and it has a fusiBle link where it connects to the starter post. Then there is a wire from that junction to the battery positive and a wire to the fuse box. Each wire has a fusible link, but no fuse. However, that junction is under the vehicle where it not convenient to reach.
Newer vehicles run the charge wire directly over from alternator BAT to the battery positive, and put the fusible link on the battery end. I pulled that setup off a junked GM vehicle because it gave me a larger charge wire (8 gauge?) for my new alternator.
|07-04-2012 12:33 AM|
|07-03-2012 06:02 PM|
thanks Vicrod and Dub , i check out your ideas and get back to you
|07-03-2012 02:51 PM|
When you turn off the ignition does the wire to the HEI go to 0 volts?
If not something is wrong with the wiring to the fuse block or the ignition switch is bad.
The one wire alternator should be connected the battery side (hot at all times) of the fuse block. If connected correctly a one wire alternator cannot feedback to the ignition. Double check the alternator connection. As a test disconnect it and see if the problem goes away.
|07-03-2012 12:05 AM|
I had the same issue obviously. The power to the HEI was in the wrong fuse terminal the entire time. In the center of the fuse block, there are a row of terminals that you can use. I used the one all the way at the bottom, its marked "IGN" That's one of the few terminals that kills power when the ignition is in the "off" position. Run that wire directly to the HEI power terminal.
Hope this helps.
|07-02-2012 09:54 PM|
I DONT HAVE ANY RESISTOR WIRE ANYMORE.i PICKED UP POWER AT THE FUSE PANEL AT ''FUSED IGNITION'' AND RAN THE WIRE RIGHT TO THE hEI.
I CHANGED THE ALTERNATOR AT THE SAME TIME.COULD THE ALT BE BACK FEEDING?
|07-02-2012 08:51 PM|
You need to make sure you have 1 wire feeding the HEI from the ignition switch or switched circuit. No resistor wire or wire from the starter.
I am assuming this problem started when you changed from points to HEI.
Check it with test light.
|07-02-2012 08:30 PM|
Hi All,I have a 1965 chevelle with hei and one wire alt that also wont shut off with the key.I have to pull the battery cable off to stop it.I plugged my HEI power wire into the fuse panel after i removed the old wire for the points system
|06-16-2012 05:34 AM|
Place the diode on the #1 terminal....... I suggest removing the #1 wire from the connector, go to NAPA and buy a female and male type 56 terminal (OEM type) crimp the diode to the new terminals, insert it into the alt connector, place the old wire onto the new diode, cover the whole thing in shrink wrap. That way if it ever goes south and needs replacing..... it's a simple
|06-16-2012 03:14 AM|
|06-16-2012 01:53 AM|
GM: Delcotron Alternators use an internal voltage regulator. Install
the Diode in-line on the smallest wire exiting the alternator (Figure
7). It is usually a Brown wire.
stripe on diode towards alternator.
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