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Ok, a few more stupid questions about this top.

33K views 174 replies 8 participants last post by  John long 
#1 ·
I see in the GM assembly manual these things called "fillers". Over at the Goodguys I was able to see down into this area on a car and it looked like there were some dense foam pads at this spot. Is that all these "Filler" amount to, sort of a pad where the tack ("trim") strip screws to the body?



Next, it shows this measurement for the rear bow. It's extremely clear, 17 and 5/8 inches from the inside of the rolled edge on the rear bow to the center of the next bow. This is perfectly clear, make a stick that goes here to hold it and done deal, put the rear curtain in. That's how I see it at least.



But then they give this very elaborate directions for making a stick that would go there and it's adjustable! Why the heck would it need to be adjustable if this measurement is so defined and clear?



Thanks, Brian
 
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#52 ·
shimstock

On some guns you can use shim stock, ( lots of time i use soda cans for shim stock ) and adjust your gun nose piece so as the driver wears you can remove shims and file the drive end to remove mushrooming and iregular wear. square the end. I have been using one of My upholstery guns to fasten Tar paper and Tyveck to our Duplex we are building. The granular coated Ice Shiels is very hard on staple guns. The guns are also handy in building cabinets putting on the 1/4 in backing plywood.
 
#53 ·
Ok, let me get this straight, you grind this piece flush that is sticking out of the gun?



I would have never thought of this in a million years! How could this be "shimmed", pull it apart and I will see?

Here is the "wire" I think it's called is what I got for the front and the back. I will be looking into the stuff you are showing Dan, my top didn't have that, it had the same as the new stuff I got with the top.



So those strips of vinyl that came with the top are for if I don't want to use this pre-made stuff and I want to rap the original plastic tube like stuff, is that correct?

Brian
 
#54 ·
DanTwoLakes said:
While you can use windlace sponge rod to make the finished edge, the original top would have had extruded plastic header welt (also called header strip) sewn inside of the fabric. It is still available from ARO convertible tops:
CLICK HERE

If you saved the old stuff from the original top, you can have the new fabric sewn to it. I think it looks way better than anything round to finish off the top in front.

Here's what it looks like:
Ahhhh, yes I think I will get that stuff, easy enough, looks like it would be much easier than the "windlace sponge rod" as I believe what I have in my hand in the photo from my previous post? Just to be certain I went out and checked my old top junk and yes they used a windlace sponge rod on the header. :(

The "windlace sponge rod" is what I will be using at the rear bow for sure though right?

I am blown away at this "tuning" the stapler, I am so glad I didn't go crazy last night before posted about it. So tell me, my wife said "Well now it won't be good for anything else". I am seeing her point in that it won't work good on something like stapling plywood backing on as timothale mentioned. But as I told my wife if I toss that stapler in the garbage after I am done with the top I would be fine with that too. But it's uses will be limited won't it?

Dan, am I mistaken on what you called "wire" in an earlier post? You were referring to the windlace sponge rod weren't you?

Brian
 
#55 ·
I know most everything has been answered and I am double asking but I really need a verification on the grinding down of the part on my stapler. This is so odd to me I want to be sure before I go out and do it to my new stapler.

By the way when ever in the future you describe this to anyone be sure to tell them to take the staples out before they pull the trigger to look at this........you know how I know?

Brian
 
#57 ·
MARTINSR said:
I know most everything has been answered and I am double asking but I really need a verification on the grinding down of the part on my stapler. This is so odd to me I want to be sure before I go out and do it to my new stapler.

By the way when ever in the future you describe this to anyone be sure to tell them to take the staples out before they pull the trigger to look at this........you know how I know?

Brian
Hopefully you still have both eyes.
 
#58 ·
Well John, it was $22 and it will send a staple thru the metal of my top irons.

What about my question? Do I simply grind down that part that pokes out and call it a day?

Brian
 
#60 ·
MARTINSR said:
Ok, let me get this straight, you grind this piece flush that is sticking out of the gun?



I would have never thought of this in a million years! How could this be "shimmed", pull it apart and I will see?

Here is the "wire" I think it's called is what I got for the front and the back. I will be looking into the stuff you are showing Dan, my top didn't have that, it had the same as the new stuff I got with the top.



So those strips of vinyl that came with the top are for if I don't want to use this pre-made stuff and I want to rap the original plastic tube like stuff, is that correct?

Brian
The picture you posted is of the wire-on that covers the seam on the rear bow. That is only decorative, and has two little chrome ends to cover up the raw edges on each side. It does not go on the front header next to the windshield.

The header welt is decorative too, but it also fills any gaps between the front header of the top and the windshield frame. The extra fabric gets sewn around whatever you decide to use there. The way the plastic extrusion works is you cover the entire extrusion which is about 2" wide with the larger of the two pieces of fabric you got with the top. There should be enough fabric to leave a flap. You turn back the fabric flap to staple (or in my case it was tacked down) the plastic of the extrusion to the header, and then when the whole thing is in place, you glue the fabric flap down to cover your staples or tacks. The first two pictures are of the assembly upside down. The third picture is what it should look like after stapling and gluing. The last picture is the assembly right side up.
 

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#61 ·
BTW, my gun that shoots the T-50 staples sticks out of the nose of the gun at least that far also, so I wouldn't grind it off. I have been using pneumatic staple guns for over 40 years, and have never shimmed one or ground anything down on one. My advice is to turn down the air pressure to the gun.
 
#63 ·
Thank you Dan, I think it may be a way to go as others have done it and it makes sense when you think about it. So I will make a decision based on what I find when I cut down the pressure. I have also heard (you may have said it) to simply not push down hard on the material when you hit the trigger. Typically when I have seen these tools used you are pushing material together with pressure on the gun down on the material when you pull the trigger. This is how I was doing it on those first few staples. I remember hearing some where to not put such pressure so the staple doesn't cut thru the material, do you do this?

I know I can go out and experiment and I will do that tonight, I am just trying to get more info on how you guys do it.

Here is a photo of a 65 Impala I took at the Goodguys. This is obviously a poor example but this is that header welt you have shown me? I am pretty sure my old top had the wire on up on the header as I remember. I will dig thru my old top stuff tonight but I think that is what they had. Never-the-less, I want to use that stuff you have shown me. I can put the top on and add that later when I get it in the mail right? That is going to go, last thing over the end of the header once the top is all stapled in, correct?

Brian

 
#64 ·
timothale said:
I've built schools in California and there is a specification on how nails and staples have to be driven too deep breaks a top ply in shear rated walls, and staples in cabnet hangers. we always had to adjust drivers and air pressure.
'


I thank you for your input as well, the more ideas the better. I am just sorting this all out and that does make sense as well. Like I said, I have some decisions to make.

Brian
 
#65 ·
That is an absolutely awful header welt. It looks like it was done with windlace sponge rod. The plastic extrusion is far better and neater. Yes, it can be put on the very last thing.

I've never had a staple gun that cut through anything other than one layer of vinyl, and that was because I put too much pressure on it.
 
#66 ·
I'll add a regulator to the gun and try some different techiques to work it out. It could also be the junk HF tool too. :mad: But I will work on reducing it. It really HITS and did tear thru a few layers on the top pad I did the other night. Luckly it had to be un-stapled and pulled a little tighter anyway. So I am at a fresh meat area to try it again. :D

Thanks so much for the help!

Brian
 
#67 ·
:cool: I did go to HF and bought the same gun you did Brian and like yours it also sunk the staple way below the surface due to the plunger protruding so far out the tip. I took Timathales advise and ground the plunger tip. Did the trick. I used my 22 gauge Haubold staples in the gun because the staples I bought at HF won't even fit it. It shot 2 at a time but worked great. I will get the right staples when I get back out. 20 dollars well spent. :cool:

John L
 
#68 ·
Well, I installed the pads tonight and I believe all went well. There is one thing that is reassuring and that is that the old top was done so damn bad and I enjoyed that car and wore out the top. I guess it won't be any worse and it worked out ok. I put a regulator on the hose and that seemed to make all the difference in the world. Worked like a charm for me.

Brian

 
#71 · (Edited)
Brian: Did you get pads for the rear corners that go from the rear bow to the tack strip on both sides? These are called rear quarter pads, and your car may or may not have had them originally.
 
#72 ·
Dan, you scared me as I started reading your post because I cut a lot off those pads (about a foot). But there was nothing on the old top (I know, I can't really go by what those guys did) and in the manual there is nothing ever mentioned about it.

Brian
 
#73 ·
Ok, next stupid question. In the manual they say to tape over the top of the front header covering up the end of the top pads. When I pulled the old top off sure enough there was a black cloth like tape up there over that whole top of the header. Would duct tape be ok for this or should I hold out for some cloth like tape? I picked up some black duct tape but will wait until you ok it. :D I am thinking I really need to get the cloth stuff.

Brian
 
#74 ·
I just went out there and started fooling with the rear curtain. I have came to the fact that there is no way I can use this top or the rear window. The window is terribly lumpy and the top has scratches all over the inside, I simply can't live with this as cheap a bugger as I am I have to buy a new top with rear window.

Brian
 
#75 ·
By the way I picked up some 1/2 stainless staples for the rear bow and find that the old ones were only 3/8" but it wouldn't hurt to use 1/2" I can't imagine. That tack strip material in the rear bow is much thicker than the others I am thinking.

Brian
 
#76 ·
So now the question comes, where do I buy a top? I have heard a brand name of "Kee". Is this one on ebay going to be any different do you think? Click here

It looks like the same place you posted to get that header welt. Here is a page to their tops, same photo. Click here

$269 window and all with free shipping is a killer deal if it is the same quality. What do you think?

Brian
 
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