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Topic Review (Newest First)
Today 05:15 PM
Rodnit
Quote:
Originally Posted by 19996Silverado View Post
I spent a few hrs working on dash and interior lighting today. That's about it. I have a TIA (mini stroke) 2 weeks ago so I am taking it easy..

Dan
Hope you're doing ok. You're the 2nd person in the last 2 weeks that had a mini stroke, if there is such a thing..... I guess there is..... Hope nothing for the best for you.......
Today 04:16 PM
TucsonJay Reminds me of Jimmy Olsen and Lois Layne! :-)~
Today 06:42 AM
John long
Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
I was only asking when you guys sand. Before treatment or after or both. No reply required.
Both for me. I always finish with 80 grit on a da before priming. I did not on my roadster and got in trouble.

John
Yesterday 09:37 PM
MARTINSR I got Marge out of rehab! She promised she wouldn't relapse and I believed her. But on the first test drive, I am thinking she has already hit the hard stuff again. Things weren't right, the clutch pedal had an odd feeling.


Brian
Yesterday 07:03 PM
idrivejunk Heres a "just rolled in today" for them who speak red Super Sport to look at. Gen VI, metric 454 with alum heads already. I don't know that I've seen one that still has the tabs on the gutter. Nice ride!
Yesterday 06:34 AM
idrivejunk
Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
I use sandpaper on everything except pitted metal that sandpaper can not get down into and would da with 80 grit before priming.

I was only addressing David's question about the area on his truck's roof that had heavy surface rust.

John
I was only asking when you guys sand. Before treatment or after or both. No reply required.
03-20-2017 11:19 PM
19996Silverado
Dash lighting

I spent a few hrs working on dash and interior lighting today. That's about it. I have a TIA (mini stroke) 2 weeks ago so I am taking it easy..

Dan
03-20-2017 11:18 PM
MARTINSR Out working on Marge in the rain tonight, got to get her on the road. I think it's all good now, hopefully tomorrow I can adjust her brakes and she will be good to go. She was a base model and self adjusters were an option! LOL

I replaced a couple of the springs and though it has too much pedal play, it's as much as it had so I am ready to put her back on the road. The last few weeks without Marge has sucked! I pulled the clutch cover off and the disc looks like new still (I am very easy on clutches and brakes) so I have to assume all is good. I am just surprised that there isn't enough rod to lengthen it out and eliminate the play. Don't know why, and I don't know what I will do when the clutch does wear.


Brian
03-20-2017 07:30 PM
Fasto44 A couple of ago I got into a bad situation with the motorhome and had a branch damage the satelite radome. Cracked that sucker like an egg and it is made out of ABS plastic. My unit is no longer in production and the new one has a completely different shape from mine. So after a month of searching the old interweb, I was unable to find a suitable replacement. I broke out the fiberglass and epoxy resin to fix the damaged plastic. I am going to let everything cure for a few days and then rough sand it for skim coating. Primer, block sand, and epoxy paint and it should be good as new.
03-20-2017 05:48 PM
John long
Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
At what point do you guys use sandpaper in that situation? I got started on the 60 Chevy trunk lid today.
I use sandpaper on everything except pitted metal that sandpaper can not get down into and would da with 80 grit before priming.

I was only addressing David's question about the area on his truck's roof that had heavy surface rust.

John
03-20-2017 05:47 PM
496CHEVY3100
Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
One other thing. I have not tried it but someone on here suggested making a sand slurry with Ospho and they said the granuals would get down into the pits and do a good job off desolving the rust.

I have talked to Barry and others in the know and I personally WOULD NEVER paint over any acid product. If you leave it on for a year, I would retreat the area, rinse and neutralize while still wet before priming.

I just don't believe in miracle coatings.

John

If it sat in my shop a year it would have to be washed and metal prepped,,because it would be 1/2 in deep in dest,
I allways use metal prep on bare metal if it sits overnight and DZ330 grease and wax remover before I spray the epoxy primer,,

yea the year they advertise probably caused spmeone some problems in yhe past
Sharkhide
03-20-2017 05:31 PM
idrivejunk At what point do you guys use sandpaper in that situation? I got started on the 60 Chevy trunk lid today.
03-20-2017 04:55 PM
John long
Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
If I just have to use acid David, I like to use something like Ospho and a fiber stripping disk in a drill motor where I can reverse it back and fourth and really work the acid into the pits. After 2-3 applications while keeping it wet you can cut the rust out of the pits pretty effectively. Once It is rinsed very, very well and acid is neutralized, you should have a pretty good base for your epoxy primer. Personally, I really do like the SPI best. It has enough build to fill most pits and I have found it's adhesion to be superb.

My 2 cents worth.

John
One other thing. I have not tried it but someone on here suggested making a sand slurry with Ospho and they said the granuals would get down into the pits and do a good job off desolving the rust.

I have talked to Barry and others in the know and I personally WOULD NEVER paint over any acid product. If you leave it on for a year, I would retreat the area, rinse and neutralize while still wet before priming.

I just don't believe in miracle coatings.

John
03-20-2017 01:43 PM
496CHEVY3100
Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
If I just have to use acid David, I like to use something like Ospho and a fiber stripping disk in a drill motor where I can reverse it back and fourth and really work the acid into the pits. After 2-3 applications while keeping it wet you can cut the rust out of the pits pretty effectively. Once It is rinsed very, very well and acid is neutralized, you should have a pretty good base for your epoxy primer. Personally, I really do like the SPI best. It has enough build to fill most pits and I have found it's adhesion to be superb.

My 2 cents worth.

John
Barry is only about 35-40 minutes above the shop,i might give him a try
03-20-2017 01:34 PM
John long If I just have to use acid David, I like to use something like Ospho and a fiber stripping disk in a drill motor where I can reverse it back and fourth and really work the acid into the pits. After 2-3 applications while keeping it wet you can cut the rust out of the pits pretty effectively. Once It is rinsed very, very well and acid is neutralized, you should have a pretty good base for your epoxy primer. Personally, I really do like the SPI best. It has enough build to fill most pits and I have found it's adhesion to be superb.

My 2 cents worth.

John
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