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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-14-2012 01:15 PM
Blacktail Sniper I have reached a roadblock on identifying the engine.

Narrowed it down to a 1967 327 (casting #3858180 = 1967, 327 ci).

The conflict is in the partial vin and the engine number stamped into the front pad.

Enginge number FI223HD decodes as: Flint assembly plant, Dec 23rd, 1967 327 Vette or 1969 350 Camaro, Chevelle or Nova.

Partial VIN (4LL132206), indicates a possible 1967 Chevy truck. Issue is the extra "L" in the VIN, can only find examples with 1 letter in that position, never 2.

Any thoughts or clues? Maybe a hiccup when the VIN was stamped and an extra "L" included???

Thanks, Dennis
07-14-2012 02:49 AM
Blacktail Sniper Okay, picked-up a 1980 El Camino, complete except for a few minor things here & there. The measurements work out for setting the 41's body on it so gonna go that route.

Thanks everyone for all the tips, ideas, leads and such. Very much appreciated.

The elky was a V-6 car originally. The fella I got it from put what he thought was a 327 in it.

Didn't have time to get it off the dolly before I ran out of daylight, so its still sitting in the driveway. But I did grab the numbers stamped on the pad in front of the passenger side head & pulled the valve cover and got the casting # for the head.

Head is a Camel Hump #3890462, no assy holes. Date code says Nov 10, 1966

Tomorrow in the daylight I will get the Elky off the dolly and get the block casting number and see what that says.

But having trouble with the partial VIN on the engine pad:

FI223HD & 4LL132206. Struggling with the "LL" in the partial VIN, not finding any thing that matches.

Decoded the FI223HD number: either a 67 - 327 Corvette or 69 350 Chevelle, Camaro or Nova.

Anyone want to take a shot at the partial VIN???

Thanks, Dennis
07-13-2012 09:30 PM
deadbodyman Here in Ga. You dont need a title until 85 and newer just a bill of sale ...unless you TELL them you swaped the frame with an frame thats 85 or newer.then (what most guys dont know) all you have to do is go to the sheriffs dept and have them take the ID #'s of the frame AND the body to see if its stolen,it takes about 30 minutes and if alls good, they give you a piece of paper saying its ok to register it...its free..
On 85 and newer if you dont have a title (lets say you lost it or bought a parts car without one) you can get a bonded title for 100.00,you do the same thing (no charge) and you just pay the ins.co. 100.00 for a bonded title ,go to DMV and your on the road....If you dont know this and just go to the DMV they will charge you a tax for every year it wasnt registerd ,for my car that was 30 years and was over 1,000.00 I got my 48 Ply insured for 68'00 for 6 mounths but I still have to pay the normal regisration costs that are way less than 100.00( havent done it yet) but its insured and thats the important part..
You can also register a car as part of a collection that only gets driven a few miles a year and save a ton...every state is different but almost the same so do a little research on some other car sites also with "titling a car "as your search ,thats what I did and learned a whole lot and saved a lot I knew more than the girl at the counter ,she had to get her boss to varify what I said...Dont wait untill your almost done (like I did),to find out what you have to do , get it done first ,even if the shop burns down ,the cars is insured whether your driving it or not ...most Ins companies will insure a car for set value (like a painting) so cover your butt and get it insured and your 3/4s of the way there ...Titles are easy....dont worry about it..
07-13-2012 11:56 AM
Blacktail Sniper
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mojo56 View Post
Ahhh... but won't the title then say it's a '55 Chevy? Just asking... do you attend any swap meets? have you asked about finding a frame on the Antique Automobile Club of America site? Or Chevy Talk - Chevy / Chevy Message Boards for the Chevy Enthusiast

I'm vending t a swap this weekend... over 4400 swap spots... you have to get out and find what you need.
No, they just want to make sure that there is proper documentation from where all the major parts came from. When inspected by WSP, they will issue me a new VIN and it will be registered as a 1941 Chevrolet.

RCW 46.12.711: Street rod vehicles.

http://apps.leg.wa.gov/RCW/default.aspx?cite=46.12.695
07-13-2012 09:40 AM
Mutt's37Buick Still recommend taking another look at 92-96 Chevy Caprice, Impala SS, or Buick Roadmaster.
These cars have a front track of 61.8 & rear track of 60.7 with center line wheels.
If you go to:
5x5 Bolt Pattern Compatibility List - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network
you will see that 99-06 Jeep Cherokees have 5 x 5 bolt pattern and they a have high negative offset on their stock wheels of 1.75" per wheel.
Using wheels for a Cherokee on a Caprice style chasis will result in a front track of 58.3 and rear track of 57.2.
A 41 Chevy is not listed, but if it is close to the 42 Chevy then it would be 57.6 front track and 60 rear which is pretty close.
I recommend that you find out the actual inside to inside clearance of the fenders on a same year as your car because most had have lots more clearance built in than current rodders want.
Still not saying swap will be easy, in fact experienced rodders I talked to said it was far from it because of all the fab required to hold everything in right place.
Ultimately one of the main reasons I stuck with the original frame is I did not want to end up with an old body bolted to a new car chassis.
Just did not have the same appeal to me.
But everyone should build their car the way they want.
One of the coolest things about this craft is the variety and originallity.
07-13-2012 07:31 AM
timothale
rusted out

That E bay frame has way too much rusted out cancered places Only good for a pattern If you are making a new one.
07-12-2012 10:19 PM
Mojo56 late 1930's 1938 38 ?? chevy Frame Chassis Undercarriage vintage | eBay
07-12-2012 10:13 PM
Mojo56
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blacktail Sniper View Post
True, especially on those older ones. But I have located a 1955 Chevy frame, most measurements are close enough to use it as a start, then graft a newer front clip on it. I just need to get there and pick it up...about 75 miles away, but free is a very good price.

And, yes, while it is just a bare, but roller frame with no body or firewall, it does have the VIN stamped into the frame rail, as do a lot of cars & trucks. So I can obtain the proper paperwork from that and get a registration with no hassles.

I appreciate everyone's comments, tips, thoughts and sugguestions, now...on to the next step in this little adventure!!!!
Ahhh... but won't the title then say it's a '55 Chevy? Just asking... do you attend any swap meets? have you asked about finding a frame on the Antique Automobile Club of America site? Or Chevy Talk - Chevy / Chevy Message Boards for the Chevy Enthusiast

I'm vending t a swap this weekend... over 4400 swap spots... you have to get out and find what you need.
07-12-2012 10:10 PM
Mojo56
Quote:
Originally Posted by jvsapp View Post
i have to disagree with this. my 63 nova i know exactly where the VIN is stamped into the body(being that it's a unibody with no frame). and it does match the vin tag on the firewall as well as in the door jamb.

as for the rear steering nova's you want the first gen 62-67 setup(but it's not very great with geometry) personally i'd recommend MII and a rack.
I was referring to cars from the 20's thru 40's...
07-12-2012 04:55 PM
Blacktail Sniper
Quote:
Originally Posted by kittypancake View Post
What have you lokked at so far? It should probably be a truck as that would be more likely to have a full frame.
Most of the GM, mid-size rear wheel drive cars from about 1987 or maybe 88 back have full frames, Malibu, Regal, Cutlass, etc.

Working on finding a 1978 & up El Camino, as I said in my reply above, the numbers just work out real good for a match.

Thanks, Dennis
07-12-2012 04:52 PM
Blacktail Sniper
Quote:
Originally Posted by ssimpala View Post
Mutt's37 has a good idea about the Caprice/Impala frame. I have a complete chassis from a '95 Impala SS, including engine, trans, wiring harness, brakes, wheels....everything except the body. But, I'm in Texas...no help to you. However, I can get measurements, etc if you need and decide to try one of these swaps. Bill.
Real rough, round numbers, the front track width is about 4" too wide.

I have found two that will work, with some modification for mounting, one being a 1955-57 Chevy car wheelbase @ 115" with the 41 @ 116", the front track is 58 16/32" on 55-57 & the 41 is 57 21/32" with rear track is spot on @ 60" for both.

I do have a 55 frame with broken rearend, front steering & suspension still attached waiting for me to pick-up. It is free, but 75 miles away.

The other one, and what I am currently looking for, reasonably priced, is the 1978 & up Chevy El Camino. Wheelbase is just over 117", so the centering of the wheels in the rear wells will be solved, the front track is 58 16/32", the rear is a tad narrow, but those in 60" lengths are easy to find.

Bonus on the El Camino will be in the suspension, engine mounting, etc., already set up for a V-8. Now just shopping around my area for a reasonably priced, V-8 car in complete or mostly complete condition to use as the donor. But, I do have the 55 frame as a fall back if necessary.

Thanks, Dennis
07-12-2012 04:13 PM
kittypancake What have you lokked at so far? It should probably be a truck as that would be more likely to have a full frame.
07-12-2012 03:47 PM
ssimpala Mutt's37 has a good idea about the Caprice/Impala frame. I have a complete chassis from a '95 Impala SS, including engine, trans, wiring harness, brakes, wheels....everything except the body. But, I'm in Texas...no help to you. However, I can get measurements, etc if you need and decide to try one of these swaps. Bill.
07-12-2012 02:44 PM
hemirrhoid
41 chassis

The way I addressed the 1.5" forward set of the rear axel is I drilled offset holes in the lowering blocks and shifted the rear axel towards the back to center the wheels.

Dale
07-12-2012 11:51 AM
Stovens Hi
Just read this entire thread. Some things to take into account. Unless you've built a frame before, or have lots of welding practice and tools, you may find building your own way too complex for your first build. Frame swaps then become a little easier, but again require alot of modifications. Buying a frame made for the vehicle then becomes the easiest of the three choices. Ultimately projectas like this start off with a thought, heck I only need to do this, I could pick something used up and make it work. Years later those projects are getting ready for the scrapper, and someone else comes along to buy them.
I don't know if this is your first project or if you've done this before, that makes a huge difference on what path to take. Experience does too. Most of the hard core hot rodders have done this stuff all their lives, so to them it's easy to fabricate, weld, paint, wire, plumb, do sheet metal work, and they can keep their costs way down by doing it all themselves. But if this is your first venture into a project like this, making it simple as possible will equal a better chance of completing it.
I don't say this to upset you or try to disuade you from whatever approach to this you want to take. I've been working on a 48 ford truck for almost 5 years. It came with lots of stuff already done and lots of parts. All I had to do was convert the front brakes to disc, replumb all the brake line, put a new rear axle that would work with my engine, and rebuild a motor, and transmission. The problem starts when you deviate from the normal parts list. Then you start searching for other that have gone that route.
One thing I wish I would have done from the beginning was buy a whole new rolling frame( I just couldn't afford it!). When you look at a sticker price of ten grand you think, I'm not spending that much. But as you work on what you have over the years time, money and frustration start to add up to, in the end it sometimes comes out better to not to try to reinvent the wheel in the first place.
I think starting with a donor frame from the same model and year would be a good inexpensive start. Doing the 350 chevy v8 and matching tranny another good choice. One question to think on is what am I willing to spend time wise and financially for this car? All of us who are honest will tell you in this economy you can buy a used project in progress or one running for a lot less than you can build that same project for! If you love the 41 bodystyle that is a good start.
I hope you don't take this posting the wrong way, it's just alot of us wish someone would have pointed out certain stuff to us too at the beginning.
All of that said, it's a great learning process, the pride from figuring out something yourself, or doing the work yourself, it a great reward. I personally have little experience in this hot rod world, but have learned a ton from forums like this one, with lots of good folks there to offer advice, and solutions.
If you have experience in this area then please ignore everything I have said, I just wanted to say that it's a long process and no matter how much you can do yourself, it is not inexpensive. I look foward to following your project and see that 41 running on the road again! Steve.
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