|06-29-2012 09:25 AM|
|06-29-2012 12:04 AM|
give you a solid pedal with crappy brakes...
|06-24-2012 11:29 AM|
STOP! The very FIRST thing to concern yourself with is WHERE did you get the disks? If you are saying that you installed front spindles and disks from a 1980s G-body, DO NOT drive the car. The G-body spindles are not a bolt-in replacement for the 64-70 A-body cars. The ball joint studs have a different taper and will not seat properly in the spindles. THIS IS NOT SAFE TO DRIVE.
Did I mention that this is not safe?
Once you get the proper spindles and disks for an A-body, then simply get the correct master cylinder for an A-body with manual disk brakes - it was a factory option. Problem solved.
|06-24-2012 10:12 AM|
I don't like how mine feels at all. I have a good hard pedal, but it seems to take a loooong time to stop. Unfortunately, I have no room for a booster, don't want to pay the $$$ for the electric setup, and dislike the looks of the hydroboost. My car ('72 Maverick) came stock with manual drum/drum brakes and I swapped to 11" front discs, 11" rear drums (after changing to a 9" axle) and a Grenada disc/drum master cylinder...
|06-23-2012 02:34 PM|
The thing to concern yourself with is pedal ratio..a manual system needs about a 6-1 or more to work well...Otherwise the effort to use the brakes may be excessive..only way to know is to remove the booster and try it..this may require a different master cylinder as the push rods may be different..
|06-23-2012 02:22 PM|
manual disc and drum system.
I am wanting to eliminate the brake booster in my 1970 Skylark and I have mounted discs from a 1980 something g-body and I am wondering if someone in this forum has a manual system with discs on front and drums on rear. I have read glowing reports from advertisments but I want real time experience.