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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-10-2012 03:57 PM
Trans Am Tony
Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
Hopefully you left the vacuum advance in place on the new dist.
LOL, yeah. I won't be modding this distributor. However, I'm saving my money to buy a good HEI dist and MSD 6AL box next year. I think the 455 will make more power with the HEI and the bigger plug gap (.045 vs the .035 I'm running for the points now) will make for more complete fuel burn and better mileage too.
07-10-2012 03:51 PM
Trans Am Tony Well, after re-checking everything AGAIN (lol) and replacing the ballast resistor with no positive results, I decided to let a garage look at it. So far, the guy said the points were mis-aligned and covered in grease. I'm probably the one that greased up the points, as yesterday I did the screwdriver test on the points (they did spark and have 12.47 volts). As I remember, the tips of the points on that distributor (and the previous remanned distributor) looked odd and not lined up properly. I guess thats what I get for trying to save a few bucks. I got both dizzy's from AutoPart International, and they got them from a Mexican company. I guess QC is NOT a strongpoint south of the border.........

As I find out more, I'll let you guys know............
06-29-2012 09:24 PM
Trans Am Tony Sorry I haven't gotten back lately, been hurting so I haven't been working on the car much. I put in the replacement distributor on Thursday, again with no spark. So, I went back to the parts store and bought an adjustible spark tester tool. Hooked up the coil wire to it, grounded the tool as instructed and still no spark. I took off both positive wires from the coil (power and electric choke), ran a jumper wire directly from the battery to the positive side, still no spark.......

Then, a thought crossed my mind.....If I fried my electric choke, would that, in turn, cause damage to my new coil if they were hooked together? I just can't figure out how I get no spark directly from the coil. I have checked and re-checked all the wires, all the voltage readings are good. What in the world am I missing.........?
06-26-2012 05:38 PM
67Mustang Al.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RWENUTS
If you connect a positive wire to the side of the distributor you will fry stuff from that point back through the wiring.
Cheers.
Al.
It's a negative ground system Al. Wire from points goes to negative side of coil. I suggested + battery to + coil. Just like hotwiring it. Unhooking existing hot wire to coil eliminates his wiring from the ignition switch that might be fried or non existant.
JMHO[/QUOTE]
Yeah youre right , it is a negative ground system as i pointed out in the post.
........... i was saying..........If.......... you connect a positive wire to the side of the distributor you will fry stuff.
That wire from the neg. side of the coil has to be insulated right through to the moving arm of the points, even though its from the neg side of the coil. i.e. it cannot ground until the points close.
Cheers.
Al.
06-26-2012 01:16 PM
RWENUTS If you connect a positive wire to the side of the distributor you will fry stuff from that point back through the wiring.
Cheers.
Al.[/QUOTE]

It's a negative ground system Al. Wire from points goes to negative side of coil. I suggested + battery to + coil. Just like hotwiring it. Unhooking existing hot wire to coil eliminates his wiring from the ignition switch that might be fried or non existant.
JMHO
06-26-2012 12:57 PM
cobalt327
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trans Am Tony
Thanks for all the replies. I tried the jumper wire, still no spark. I have 11.34v with the ignition on, and 8.9v while cranking. I called the parts store and told them about the problems I've been having, and they said the points may be bad. So, I think it all might be a bad reman distributor........

"Hencho in Mexico"..............
Hopefully you left the vacuum advance in place on the new dist.
06-26-2012 05:58 AM
67Mustang Al.
Points operation in Volvo 4 cylinder dist.

Just snapped a shot of a Volvo distributor to show the spade connection on the side . The spade connection "MUST" be insulated from the body of the distributor and connects inside to a black wire which is connected to the moving arm of the points .
The moving arm of the points are insulated at the pivot with a nylon bush. When the points close the coil builds up a charge and then when the points open the field coils collapse in the coil and fire a 30k volt spark out of the coil top to the dist. cap centre . Points are basically a ground switch
The fixed arm of the points are earthed to the base of the distributor.
If you connect a positive wire to the side of the distributor you will fry stuff from that point back through the wiring.
Cheers.
Al.
06-26-2012 04:29 AM
67Mustang Al. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/ignition-system4.htm

The condenser stops the points from burning out. Check out the link , hope it helps. I had a Fiat years ago that would not start. I changed every part of the distributor and finally figured out that someone had filed too much off the points and the resistance they are supposed to have had been lost. New points and away it went. Not sure whether yours are new or what.
Cheers
Al.
06-25-2012 11:02 PM
RWENUTS
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trans Am Tony
Thanks for all the replies. I tried the jumper wire, still no spark. I have 11.34v with the ignition on, and 8.9v while cranking. I called the parts store and told them about the problems I've been having, and they said the points may be bad. So, I think it all might be a bad reman distributor........

"Hencho in Mexico"..............
TRy one more thing with the jumper wire. Unhook the wire that's on the positive on the coil and use the jumper wire only. If it runs you'll need to pull the jumper wire off to shut it off.
06-25-2012 09:22 PM
Greg T Thats a condenser and it needs to be there for spark. You should either pay someone to fix it or install an HEI.



.
06-25-2012 08:26 PM
Trans Am Tony
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trans Am Tony
Thanks. I'll try that soon and let you know what I find out.
Thanks for all the replies. I tried the jumper wire, still no spark. I have 11.34v with the ignition on, and 8.9v while cranking. I called the parts store and told them about the problems I've been having, and they said the points may be bad. So, I think it all might be a bad reman distributor........

"Hencho in Mexico"..............
06-24-2012 03:16 PM
Trans Am Tony
Quote:
Originally Posted by RWENUTS
Run a 10 gauge wire from the battery positive post to the positive post on the coil.
If it runs then you'll know the wire from the solenoid on the starter to the coil is broke.
Don't run it long like that or you'll burn out your points or fry your new coil.
Thanks. I'll try that soon and let you know what I find out.
06-24-2012 03:14 PM
Trans Am Tony
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg T
Resistor in the distributor? Please explain.





.
Not quite sure what it is, a little silver cannister with 1 wire. Don't worry, I put it back in when it wouldn't start (lol)..........
06-24-2012 02:07 PM
cobalt327
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trans Am Tony
Hi guys. I am completely stumped and need help. I have a Olds 455 engine with points in a 79 Trans Am that has no spark. Originally, I pulled the distributor to take off the vac advance can so I would have more adjustibility to the timing, but I accidently pulled the wire off the points. I've never worked on a points distributor before, so I hooked the wire up wrongly, causing an overload which melted down my 2 fusible links behind the alternator, the coil, and the points and condensor. I bought a new distributor, cap, rotor, wires, coil and put in new fusible link wires. When I hooked up the grounds to the new coil and distributor to my firewall 4 way ground, it got extremely HOT!

Figuring I burned the 4 way ground out, I made 2 new ground wires and ran them to the battery ground. I have 11.34v at the coil, but no spark. I replaced the new coil with a newer coil, no spark. I set the points at .018, nothing. The timing is set perfectly, but I just can't get the thing to fire. I have pulled the plug and grounded it to an exhaust manifold while the wife cranks the engine and I don't see a spark.

Do you think I might have burned out the condenser when I had it hooked up to the bad ground? How do I check if I have power to the points? Am I missing something? Really at the end of my rope. I'm disabled and on a limited income, so I don't want to take it to a shop.......Thanks for all replies, Tony...
Wiring diagram:

06-24-2012 01:49 PM
RWENUTS Run a 10 gauge wire from the battery positive post to the positive post on the coil.
If it runs then you'll know the wire from the solenoid on the starter to the coil is broke.
Don't run it long like that or you'll burn out your points or fry your new coil.
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