Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board - Reply to Topic
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Suspension - Brakes - Steering> Another puzzling brake issue
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Thread: Another puzzling brake issue Reply to Thread
Title:
  
Message:
Trackback:
Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces) :

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

Topic Review (Newest First)
06-29-2012 10:18 AM
88lowrider
Quote:
Originally Posted by Canzus View Post
Change all your brake hoses, sounds like a classic hose coming apart on the inside, acting as a check valve
Those hoses were new last brake job but hey, they are not made in the USA any longer so who knows...

Also, what is the theory of operation behind the proportioning valve mounted on a disk/drum system anyway ??
I need to clear that one up.

I see a block on this old girl but, is it a distribution block, or really a proportioning valve I wonder...
How would I tell without dissembling it?
06-29-2012 10:14 AM
88lowrider
Quote:
Originally Posted by S10xGN View Post
My '98 Dakota had stuck calipers in the front. This started after having a "shop" remove the lowering kit I put on it (right after buying it new) due to my bad back. Right after, we went for a drive and after returning, smelled what I thought was burning wires. Wife saw smoke coming from the RF wheel and the wheel was too hot to touch. Found one caliper bolt was stripped causing the caliper to c0ck and lock against the rotor (I thought?). Fixed that with an oversized bolt and all was good. A month later, we made a 250 mile round trip and halfway there, the other side did the same thing. Went to another shop and the guys found the LF caliper not releasing, but couldn't find a reason for it other than dirty fluid (both bolts were fine). They sanded the pads and we got home without further trouble. After changing the pads, calipers and resurfacing the rotors, I flushed 2 QTs of fluid through the entire system and it all seems to be working properly for now. Bottom line: check the fluid quality, mine was filthy with black gritty "stuff"...

Russ
Well, this IS a 1976 and parts are Still available for her so I guess I should just figure on replacing everything but being on SS and a tight budget, I need to do a little at a time, if I can.
My rotors were new the last brake job (which was not too long before I parked her) but have hot spots in them. If I can find someone that will "Grind" them and not just condemn them (these new trained mechanics need old people to tell them, How it was done before all this new machine crap designed to Make them Money showed up). Plenty of metal on these rotors as they are pretty new.
06-29-2012 10:02 AM
88lowrider
Quote:
Originally Posted by 67Mustang Al. View Post
If the vehicle had been sitting for 3 yrs i think that is your first clue and points to a semi - stuck caliper piston imo. When you say you pulled the piston in about 1'4 with a clamp and then pumped it out again a few times , i think that is when you freed up the piston a little. We did my sons old volvo a while ago which was heating up one front wheel and found the rubber boot that covers the caliper piston was split which allowed rain water in . This allowed a rusty build up of sludge between the piston and caliper cylinder. We had to battle to get the piston out. Once we cleaned it out it was fine. We polished the piston and cylinder with 800 wet and dry. We even used the same piston seal as the edges were still okay. This worked for us. You never know, it may work for you.
Goodluck
Al.
When the right front caliper started hanging up, I was about 140 miles from home, with no towing insurance. So, off the wheel came and that is when I started compressing the caliper with the clamp. I figured it might start leaking but hasn't as of yet. The rubber dust boots are all intact so no dust or water has gotten around the piston.
But hey, it did set for quite some time out in the elements. Salt air to boot.
06-29-2012 09:57 AM
88lowrider
Quote:
Originally Posted by S10 Racer View Post
I myself would change the caliper first. I had a LF brake hanging on my 96 GMC 1500 and it was the caliper. When you changed the master and when you bled the brakes, was the fluid clean looking or was it discolored? Are you positive all the air is out of the system?
It was discolored but for the most part, most of them are after awhile.
No air is in the system as the peddle is rock hard. Rear brake adjuster could use some cleaning so it works better, which means the peddle is a little lower than it should be is all.
06-29-2012 09:55 AM
88lowrider
Quote:
Originally Posted by hemi43 View Post
Hmmm!! You will first have to figure out if the problem is at the wheel, or either your master cylinder or proportioning valve.
Right off the bat, I'm ruling out the master, because only one front wheel is locking up.
Here's what I would do !! Carry a wrench with you that fits the bleed screw. Next time your front right wheel locks up and you can't turn the wheel by hand, loosen the bleed screw to releive and pressure that MAY be built up.
If after doing this your wheel is still locked, then you know you have a bad caliper.
If the the wheel gets loose, then It can only be a bad flex line or proportioning valve.
Dan
Good call on the releasing the bleeder valve. The brake pads look knew still and so does the flex lines, but hey, the flex line can be bad too (foreign made)
06-29-2012 08:39 AM
S10xGN My '98 Dakota had stuck calipers in the front. This started after having a "shop" remove the lowering kit I put on it (right after buying it new) due to my bad back. Right after, we went for a drive and after returning, smelled what I thought was burning wires. Wife saw smoke coming from the RF wheel and the wheel was too hot to touch. Found one caliper bolt was stripped causing the caliper to c0ck and lock against the rotor (I thought?). Fixed that with an oversized bolt and all was good. A month later, we made a 250 mile round trip and halfway there, the other side did the same thing. Went to another shop and the guys found the LF caliper not releasing, but couldn't find a reason for it other than dirty fluid (both bolts were fine). They sanded the pads and we got home without further trouble. After changing the pads, calipers and resurfacing the rotors, I flushed 2 QTs of fluid through the entire system and it all seems to be working properly for now. Bottom line: check the fluid quality, mine was filthy with black gritty "stuff"...

Russ
06-29-2012 05:49 AM
67Mustang Al.
Caliper with a problem?????

If the vehicle had been sitting for 3 yrs i think that is your first clue and points to a semi - stuck caliper piston imo. When you say you pulled the piston in about 1'4 with a clamp and then pumped it out again a few times , i think that is when you freed up the piston a little. We did my sons old volvo a while ago which was heating up one front wheel and found the rubber boot that covers the caliper piston was split which allowed rain water in . This allowed a rusty build up of sludge between the piston and caliper cylinder. We had to battle to get the piston out. Once we cleaned it out it was fine. We polished the piston and cylinder with 800 wet and dry. We even used the same piston seal as the edges were still okay. This worked for us. You never know, it may work for you.
Goodluck
Al.
06-28-2012 10:37 PM
Canzus Change all your brake hoses, sounds like a classic hose coming apart on the inside, acting as a check valve
06-28-2012 05:45 PM
S10 Racer I myself would change the caliper first. I had a LF brake hanging on my 96 GMC 1500 and it was the caliper. When you changed the master and when you bled the brakes, was the fluid clean looking or was it discolored? Are you positive all the air is out of the system?
06-27-2012 06:25 PM
hemi43 Hmmm!! You will first have to figure out if the problem is at the wheel, or either your master cylinder or proportioning valve.
Right off the bat, I'm ruling out the master, because only one front wheel is locking up.
Here's what I would do !! Carry a wrench with you that fits the bleed screw. Next time your front right wheel locks up and you can't turn the wheel by hand, loosen the bleed screw to releive and pressure that MAY be built up.
If after doing this your wheel is still locked, then you know you have a bad caliper.
If the the wheel gets loose, then It can only be a bad flex line or proportioning valve.
Dan
06-27-2012 03:46 PM
88lowrider
Another puzzling brake issue

Wow. I have been reading some of the threads and now my problem seems small.
Any how.
I will set this up with a little history first.
Brakes dragging only on the right front, Most of the time.

This is a 1976 Dodge B200 Van, 318cu, auto, power brakes.
This also sat for almost three years out in the elements. (I know, I should be horse whipped)
Been replacing belts, hoses etc and had done the brakes not too long before I parked her.

Started driving her again, pulling and moving some of my boats from up in Washington down into Oregon.
First trip down to Oregon, I noticed, Wow, I just did a tune up and might need to pull the carb off and go though it as the mileage is bad now too.

The van was loaded heavy and the boat on the back was also loaded pretty heavy. Pulled into a rest stop and didn't seem to notice any issues stopping, other than I had to dive on the brakes pretty hard.

Going back out on the freeway, I noticed her shaking like I had a tire coming apart, belts broken and getting ready to blow out.
Felt the tires, no, all round and hard, no bulges?? Felt the hub and the right front was Hot, too hot to hold on too.
Left side was fine.

Now that I am on the freeway, I need to get off at the next exit I think so I head out again and same vibration and all of a sudden, it starts to go away.
Then I notice, its gone, no vibration at all.

This time I kind of roll off the side of the freeway and use next to no brake peddle to stop, felt the hub and it was even Cooler than before.

After about two or three hours on the road, I forget about the problem as it went away.
(I don't believe in self healing either)

Then a few days later, no load in the van, going over to a friends house, it starts that whole thing over but only this time, I don't remember having to Dive onto the brakes to make it happen.

I was able to get it off the road, put the jack under it and the left wheel, I could turn with the standard amount of resistance for disc brakes. The right side, I was not able to turn the wheel.

I parked it, ordered a new master cylinder for it, did the bench bleeding, check the dept of the plunger as I know they can be different, but it was the same. What I did not do was check the hole size.

Bolted on the new master, jacked up the front wheels and gave them a spin and both felt fine.

After a few days of driving, it all started happening over again.

Here is what I have done up to this point.
I pulled the master loose and checked the hole size and made sure I had the same clearance as I did with the old one (it worked fine for 5 or more years before parking it)
Made sure the plunger was all the way back, still had the right front brake hanging.

Check the vacuum booster for throw as well as fluid that may have leaked in over time, all clear, nothing hanging up or catching.

Pulled the right front wheel and used a large screw driver in the fins to spin it. Its still hung up.

Pulled the two bolts that hold the anti rattle and hold down braces in place.
As soon as those anti rattle plates were moved, I did see that I was able to mussel the caliper and make it move by hand so it was not hung.

So, the question that I am wondering about. Does a 1976 Dodge B200 (1/2 ton) Van have a Limiting valve? on it?

I did see a block on the left side, top of the frame were it looks like only the brake lines go in and out of. No wiring or centering valve that I could see.

Now, because I was Stuck with it out of town were it happened to me, the only thing I had to purchase was a cheap 6 inch "C" clamp to compress the piston on the caliper.
I was able to just pull the wheel, compress it about 1/4", pump the brake peddle back out, compress, pump it back out, compress, pump it back out.
The brakes are working like they should, again, for how long, no clue...

So, here I am, stuck away from my shop and not sure what parts I should go for.

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:25 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.