|07-01-2012 11:40 AM|
I agree, find a 880 casting Vortec 350 as a start. These come with factory roller cams and Vortec heads. With the correct pieces it's easy to get this engine to produce nice power figures. However, I wouldn't waste my time on a 283. While they were excellant engines, the small journal rods these engines came with are not very strong. Especially when you consider if they are stock they are over 40 years old.
The next thing I recommend is learning more about how to hot rod a small block. When you believe things you hear such as all 327's had high compression it shows you have a lot to learn. Next thing I can tell you also is
Lets say we have a stock, 8:1 compression 350 engine. We remove the stock heads and install a set of stock 305 heads with 58cc chambers. Now the compression shot up to 10:1 thanks to the smaller chamber. However when we drive it, we notice it seems to be more throttle responsive, and seems to have better low end torque than it did, but when it reaches 4000 RPM it falls flat on it's face just like the stock heads we removed did. Why? because the small valves in the 305 heads and the stock ports aren't designed to breathe any higher. The ports on the heads we removed aren't any better even so they used a larger valve. What am I getting at here? FLOW IS POWER. Many believe high compression is the ticket to big power, and it is, as long as the flow is there to support it. Many a novice rodder you can ask this question. Which would you rather have, a high compression engine that doesn't flow very well, or a low compression engine with good flowing heads? And the majority will say the high compression with low flow. But in reality, the low compression good flowing engine will eat the other alive. A Good book to get is David Vizards hot rodding small blocks on a budget.
Don't waste your money on camel back heads. Those are now things of the past and they aren't worth investing any money into. Especially when you can get Vortec heads on the cheap and make 30 more horses with them.
If you get a set of camel backs that are stock and need a complete rebuild, your looking at around $700 as they will need valves, hardended valve seats installed, new bronze guides, skim milled to assure flatness, new springs, locks and retainers plus worked. When Vortec heads were readily avalible me and my best friend quickly sold all the camel back heads we had.
You can get a set of Vortec heads for around $600 and still be power over the camel backs. Another thing to remember is if you have poor flowing heads you can't count on the intake to improve it any so sticking a tunnel ram on a stock set of heads won't do it any good.
|06-30-2012 08:43 PM|
Code Year CID Vehicle HP RPO Trans Carb Comments
D 56 265 Truck 205 410 Manual 4-Brl
D 58 283 Impala 185 Base Power glide 2-Brl
D 59 283 Impala 185 Base Power glide 2-Brl
D 60 283 Impala 170 Base Power glide 2-Brl Hyd Cam
D 61 283 Impala 170 Base Power glide 2-Brl Hyd Cam
D 62 283 Impala 170 Base Power glide 2-Brl Hyd Cam
D 63 283 Impala 195 Base Power glide 2-Brl Hyd Cam
D 64 283 Impala 195 Base Power glide 2-Brl Hyd Cam
|06-29-2012 11:47 PM|
|06-29-2012 10:51 PM|
|1971BB427||As much as I love the 283, I wouldn't waste time or even buy it. I'd get a 350, as they're a dime a dozen, and rebuild kits are cheap for them. They'll also make much more pwoer without anywhere near the parts a 283 will take to get less HP.|
|06-29-2012 10:40 PM|
You will be much better off using a later model 5.7L (aka "350") SBC engine as a foundation. The 283 is small, and it is old school (2 piece rear main seal, no factory provisions to use a hydraulic roller cam). If it were a 327 (meaning it had a 4" bore from the start) it could be an OK block to work with, but it's not. The 283 block can be bored to 4" about 1/2 the time, but will fail the other 1/2. And even then the cylinder walls will be paper thin and there's no more rebuilding it. Plus it's a small journal block, meaning there are no factory cranks any larger than 3-1/4" stroke that will fit it- meaning the max you can get is 327 cid w/o using some sort of custom crank.
If you do a search here or elsewhere for a "vortec 350" or similar terms you can read up on the best engine IMO to use as a starting point.
|06-29-2012 08:55 PM|
look pal im going to be honest with you here.
if you want a street/strip car thats great! but, your opening a whole can of worms if you start with a TR intake swap.
"the 327 is a good engine"
"it all has to function in harmony"
alot of guys on this site build cars to run at WOT!
you want to build it to Run great at part throttle and drive it at full throttle im not here to get into a pissing match but i can tell you from experience you can get 400hp from a small block chevy with minimal parts but once again it has to work in harmony with the rest of the cars drivetrain to give you the seat of the pants performance your after.
L79 vette im sure he has headders already because he is considering a TR.
|06-29-2012 08:03 PM|
Is there any difference between this motor and the high performance ones other than heads and compression? I intend to change intake carb and cam anyways. If I switched to flat top pistons and better heads would this be worth it?
|06-29-2012 07:52 PM|
D '56 265 Truck 205hp RPO 410 Manual 4-Brl
D '58 283 Impala 185hp Base Powerglide 2-Brl
D '59 283 Impala 185hp Base Powerglide 2-Brl
D '60 283 Impala 170hp Base Powerglide 2-Brl Hyd Cam
D '61 283 Impala 170hp Base Powerglide 2-Brl Hyd Cam
D '62 283 Impala 170hp Base Powerglide 2-Brl Hyd Cam
D '63 283 Impala 195hp Base Powerglide 2-Brl Hyd Cam
D '64 283 Impala 195hp Base Powerglide 2-Brl Hyd Cam
Given your March 1962 date code, the likely engine is in bold above. The c/n 817 block was used for both the 327 and 283.
|06-29-2012 05:28 PM|
I got the codes off of the block, 3789817 (327 62-64 truck or passenger car) c2662 (march 26 1962) and the suffix code is T0417D, I have looked through the link you gave me and I found and there is no T0 listed. Does anyone know what this code is?
|06-27-2012 08:22 PM|
|68NovaSS||When you get your code, look here to see what you have, or what it was stock.|
|06-27-2012 07:02 PM|
|jlang||thanks 68NovaSS, I read that all 327s are 10.5:1 thanks for clearing that up for me. The 327 is stock, I haven't looked at the numbers on it yet.|
|06-27-2012 05:58 PM|
First of all, a motor's c.r. is relative to the sum of it's internal parts, piston type, dish, dome, and they're volume, cylinder hear chamber volume, etc., just because it's a 327 doesn't necessarily mean it has high compression. Do you have any history on this motor? Numbers off the front block pad, what GM heads, and so on? Has it ever been rebuilt?
BTW, camel hump heads are a stock GM head for some motors.
Here's another TR example on my T-Bucket with two 600's, it's a BB, with lots of cam and makes big power right off idle.
|06-27-2012 05:43 PM|
Alright, I just bought a 327. I want to run the Tunnel Ram since these have high compression from what I've been able to find 10.5:1. If Im wrong please tell me. I've heard these had really good heads but I don't remember the name. Would it be better to use the stock heads or change to Camelhumps? I'm still very new to engine building, would someone please explain how to calculate what camshaft to use for my application. Thanks again for helping me with all my questions, I'm just getting into small block chevy's and appreciate the help.
|06-27-2012 03:10 PM|
With 3.73 gears and a TH350 with 2000 stall it yanks the wheels off the ground if I hit it hard taking off. A tunnel ram can and does make good low end power if tuned correctly, and the right cam/pistons used. My cam is an Isky 270 mega cam, with flat top 9.5:1 pistons. The car is about 2500 lbs., and M&H drag radials on the rear.
|06-27-2012 12:03 PM|
What is the casting number on the heads?
Can be a good choice. Sort of a dimaond in the rough.
Much better with porting.
Many of these old 30-40 yr old heads are not worth rebuilding.
Often worth more sold off to collectors stock eliminator racers
Especially in non cracked unmolested "stock" form.
to fund better modern aftermarket heads.
You can build a really good tunnel ram for the street but stock low perf stuff is going to kill the deal.
Stock low perf heads, low stock compression, small wimpy cams, small carbs
cripple a tunnel ram.
buy the t ram and pass on the carbs.
tuck it away and gain more knowledge on building such motors
get a good plan and go for it.
Here is a good example of a rockin street strip T ram motor. 10:1 cr
for pump gas. 550+hp
plan on getting a 3500+ stall converter and 4.10+ gears.
here is the index of the this three part 355 SBC w tunnel ram engine build up.
read it know it there will be a test.
These tunnel ram motors have very good drivability for a hot rod type motor when done correctly. Ditch the 450cfm carbs. Do not buy small carbs if you want real horsepower.
The only small cfm carbs I would use are the 500cfm edelbrocks.
I prefer the 750's for a motor like this.
A tunnel ram motor needs a longer warm up time for street driving than a motor with a single 4 bbl manifold. Takes longer to get some heat in the manifold runners for good fuel vapourization etc. The carb tuning require3d is a bit more advanced.
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