|07-06-2012 06:52 PM|
|lilrobo||well i thought i had everything fixed ,,, well i was about 15 miles out ( it was hot ) and it start ticking again real loud so i limped on to our restaurant and i check out the engine department and i saw anti freeze around the radiator and a large spot of oil underneath so after we eat i got 3 large water to go ( for radiator ) and started it up and it sounded fine until, about 15 miles back and it started again,, i made it back home, i guess i need lifters they just not holding pressure i guess .so i will need to fix the rear seal, flush rad ( or replace ) add fan shroud ( maybe ) and work on lifters....so back to work huhh|
|07-04-2012 06:12 AM|
If you are hearing detonation and not the bearings rattling, the detonation right before the shift is also likely related to the timing, this time too much. I would recommend you recurve the distributor. Start from scratch and set it up like you would most any "performance" curve (as opposed to a stock curve). The info on this page was originally about the GM V8 HEI but the timing info works for many apps, just change the initial and total amounts of timing to suit the engine being tuned.
If you are strapped for time and you know the total timing is OK where it's at, you can try hooking the vacuum advance up to manifold vacuum and put a one-step heavier advance spring on ONE side and retest. Changing the vacuum advance vacuum source to manifold will speed up the idle if you were using ported vacuum. Reset the idle speed and be sure to readjust the idle mixture screws.
The modulator shouldn't change the WOT shift points. Be sure there's no leaks in the vacuum line and that it's tight on the modulator. You can readjust the detent cable and see if that helps.
|07-04-2012 05:19 AM|
Reused the old lifters,,,they sound good now buy just a little smoke,, could be from theanks tranny fliud in the line , cause when i cganged the modulator valve there was fluid in the line ,,,or could be running a little rich,,,it does burn your eyes a little ,,,1 other thing is after i changed the modulator valve it shiftes better but takes too long to change ,,can i adjust the passing gear linkage to fix this ,,, i get a little diesel sound right befor it changes,,
|07-03-2012 06:30 PM|
I bought the new lifters from GM Chevy dealer, oiled them well, and used plenty of assembly lube.
|07-03-2012 04:55 PM|
The exhaust seats are hardened for use w/unleaded fuel, not the valves.
I totally agree w/Greg T. Putting new lifter on an old cam is just begging for trouble. IMO there is NO "right" way to mix new and old cam and lifters. Period. The ONLY thing that might save you is the old worn out valve springs are probably down to 50 lbs on the seat.
Just the same, I wouldn't ever do it (see Item #18 here). The only way to try to repair bad lifters is if the lifter body is OK, the guts can be removed and replaced w/new guts from a new, identical lifter, as mentioned here.
|07-03-2012 03:56 PM|
|matt167||it shouldn't, but if it's black or grey, it's just running a little rich. tinkering with/ adjusting the valves correctly can make it more fuel efficent and thus, run a little rich.|
|07-03-2012 03:46 PM|
|lilrobo||well i am happy with my lifters now it sounds ok not bad i took it for a spin and everything seems ok ,,, only thing now i see a little smoke , that i didnt see before ,, i hope i didnt do something when changing the oil and using different oils ,,,, or could i have them not adjusted right ???|
|07-01-2012 06:39 PM|
well took it around the block it ran just fine ,, still got a ticking sound ,, maybe its me and it sounds that way i dont know,, anyway i have a modulator valve coming and i will change that and drive it for a few days and see,, i did see a tad bit smoke coming from the tail pipe ( all i need ) ,, it might clear up or i did something with the 2 oil changes i did got me
more to come lol
|07-01-2012 04:00 PM|
i will get on the phone to find lifters come mon ... i hate to keep running in circles with adjusting worn lifters you know ,, the outcome will be the same ,, i thought for sure after i cleaned everything it would fix the noise , its over 100 degrees here , i was going to put the valve cove and go around the block ,, and see what happens ,,, but i believe the same out come ,, i will get a set and see from there ,, i'll keep you guys posted ,, i have a couple of places to call
|07-01-2012 03:38 PM|
not at all. Lead was used as a cushion additive for the valves because they were not hardened. With the light use your car will likely see, it will not be an issue..
Lifters are going to be expensive because the engine went out of production in 1962. There still nice smooth running engines.
|07-01-2012 02:56 PM|
|lilrobo||so been thinking ,,, me running unleaded fuel is that a big deal ??? i dont know what the owner before me was running , i did hear him say that he put a bottle of lead in every now and then ,,, whats the story with that ??|
|07-01-2012 02:03 PM|
i am still trying to finf lifters that dont cost 20 each lol
before i do a cam and lifter i will do a v8 lol
|07-01-2012 10:24 AM|
New lifters can be added to an old cam. It's done all the time if a lifter goes flat and stops pumping up.. You can't run old lifters on a new cam.. After the lifters are replaced, the cam should be gone thru a basic break in procedure to pattern the lifters to the cam..
New Cam wouldn't be a bad idea. Cost of a cam and lifter kit isn't much more than the lifters itself
|07-01-2012 09:57 AM|
|07-01-2012 06:00 AM|
|lilrobo||i was told that you can do new lifters old cam but not (new cam old lifters ),, i dont know ?|
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