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Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior> Removing and reinstalling a door skin
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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-16-2012 06:57 AM
deadbodyman
Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Fool View Post
Never used them so I don't know if they are worth 6 bucks or not.

Harbor Freight Reviews - Door Skin Removal Pliers

I'm sure those will work even better than mine...Hey ,for 6.00 get them...
07-16-2012 06:51 AM
deadbodyman
Quote:
Originally Posted by tech69 View Post
try to peel up the bottom and fix it without taking off the skin. I'd try to peel it back just on the bottom around where you'll be fixing it and have a look to see if it will be possible to fix it that way, if not then plan on the bigger repair. Seems like a
2x4 clamped to the top surface would help while peeling the flange up so the skin doesn't distort. You can also just cut away the flange and fabricate a piece that looks like the flange and reweld it back on after the door frame is fixed. I dunno... just shooting around idears.
Absolutly,,only peel back what you have to to fix the rust.For some reason fords rust inside out and by the time the outer skin gets holes the inner structure crumbles in your hands.I'll post some pics later on I'm out of time and have to get to work...
07-15-2012 02:48 PM
MARTINSR I see nothing wrong with a portfolio showing your work. And not the finished car stuff, the nit and gritty stuff is what I am talking about.

Brian
07-15-2012 12:50 PM
tech69
Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
That is exactly what I was talking about Henry, you were ready with a photo.

Brian
next time I'm looking for a job I'll ask them if they want the resume in pdf or
j-peg.
07-12-2012 11:39 PM
MARTINSR That is exactly what I was talking about Henry, you were ready with a photo.

Brian
07-12-2012 08:52 PM
John68040 That does seem like a much easier idea. If I do it right, I shouldn't have to do it again for a long time so it wouldn't matter if the welds on the lip penetrated through to the frame. Chances are they would.
07-12-2012 07:32 PM
tech69
oops, here's the pic
07-12-2012 07:29 PM
tech69
Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
Yep that is what I am saying, cut that rusted area out with a cut off disc. Run the cut straight down thru the folded lip of the skin but not the outside. Lift the fold a little so you can pull the cut piece out, and to clean the inside of the area for repair. That lip may even need to be completely cut out, cut it out by running a cut along the edge just on the inside of the fold.

Fab the new inner piece, weld it in then cut a small strip of metal to replace the piece of the folded lip of the skin.

Brian
yeah, that's good advice, Brian.

Here's a pic of that repair. The piece replaced on the inner structure was just a small piece. I got lucky by being able to keep the bottom edge but it looks like this fella will at least have a small area where he'll have to weld it on the very bottom of the flange, but doesn't look so bad. Using a file to get your edge straight and a finer one to clean it up works very good for that sort of stuff.

07-12-2012 03:25 PM
timothale
Tool location.

We are at the Farm near Yellowstone for the summer, I Don't know if the tool is still in the body tool box, It was slow to use, but worked where there was limited space. The Big shop is 500 miles south, and I should have some time this comming winter to start on the Car projects. Last winter we rebuilt the south 100 year old farmhouse. New Roof, windows, more insulation Cabinets, tile and hardwood floors wiring plumbing.
07-12-2012 01:51 PM
MARTINSR
Quote:
Originally Posted by tech69 View Post
in other words, fabricate the flange on the backside of the door where needed?
The other day I did a lower door skin that I fabricated and on the other side I did just that...cut a chunk of the flange out, replaced a piece on the inners and welded a piece back to look like the flange. I also didn't cut it all the way at the bottom cause the metal was ok there so I didn't have to file it down or worry about it changing the gap to the rocker. Saved soo much time doing it that way. Good call.

Funny, I'm actually editing a video on the lower door skin and left out the footage of the repair of the flange being cut out on the other side but after this thread I will probably go back and insert it into the video.
Yep that is what I am saying, cut that rusted area out with a cut off disc. Run the cut straight down thru the folded lip of the skin but not the outside. Lift the fold a little so you can pull the cut piece out, and to clean the inside of the area for repair. That lip may even need to be completely cut out, cut it out by running a cut along the edge just on the inside of the fold.

Fab the new inner piece, weld it in then cut a small strip of metal to replace the piece of the folded lip of the skin.

Brian
07-12-2012 01:11 PM
tech69 in other words, fabricate the flange on the backside of the door where needed?
The other day I did a lower door skin that I fabricated and on the other side I did just that...cut a chunk of the flange out, replaced a piece on the inners and welded a piece back to look like the flange. I also didn't cut it all the way at the bottom cause the metal was ok there so I didn't have to file it down or worry about it changing the gap to the rocker. Saved soo much time doing it that way. Good call.

Funny, I'm actually editing a video on the lower door skin and left out the footage of the repair of the flange being cut out on the other side but after this thread I will probably go back and insert it into the video.
07-12-2012 12:40 PM
MARTINSR Or cut the sections of the shell out as I originally suggested. There is absolutely no reason to remove that skin if you can't get a replacement. Just cut the shell, remove it out from under the skin and fab a new piece and sand blast and repair the skin right at that spot only.

Brian
07-12-2012 12:17 PM
tech69 that's totally a good candidate for a lower skin job or to just peel it back where needed. Peeling back the whole door is a lot of work. If you have a metal brake you're in business. the rest of the door inside is probably still good and if you see anything above the bottom of the door it's probably superficial and just on the surface due to gravity and water that will rest on the bottom of the door as opposed to settling on the side of the door above the bottom.
07-11-2012 05:01 PM
Old Fool Never used them so I don't know if they are worth 6 bucks or not.

Harbor Freight Reviews - Door Skin Removal Pliers

07-11-2012 04:08 PM
John68040



Here's what I've got to fix.

Quote:
Originally Posted by swvalcon View Post
When I closed my bodyshop back in the late 80's I threw away a brand new drivers door for a pinto. Still kicking my butt. Really should have saved it.
Shame to have thrown it away because I'll guarantee there's someone out there who could use it. My driver's side door needs minimal work luckily, the right one on the car is rotted pretty bad however (with almost no rust on the surrounding body). This one is a lot cleaner than the one on the car.

Quote:
Originally Posted by timothale View Post
I copied a door skin too years a go, and haven't seen it since I've moved twice. I forget where i saw it being used. I started with a steel block, I think about 1 X 1 by 2 in long, I cut a slot 3./4 deep length wise just wide enough to slip over a door edge . I rounded the edges by slipping the slot carefully over the back side of my 6 X 48 belt sander and carefully deburring the edges. I drilled a couple 1/2 in holes to intersect the slot. Then I cut 1/4 and 3/16 slots 90* to the long slot. The next part is to take a couple old screwdriver, that fits the short slot, sharpen the end then heat it up and bend it to 90*. You slip the tool over the door edge , then hook the screwdriver blade edge on the edge and pry back, that lifts the edge of the skin, work along the door to bring the edge up. That tool would work where the tile nippers wouldn't fit.
I'm having trouble trying to picture this, any chance you can take a photo of the tool? It sounds like it might be more suitable with the little amount of room I have.

This one that John long linked to seems like it might not fit, but I could probably make one that would work in the tight space I have.
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/atta...p;d=1339970760
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