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Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Transmission - Rearend> Driveshaft Lengthening
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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-12-2012 05:25 PM
prostreet6t9
Quote:
Originally Posted by timothale View Post
When I need a drive shaft cut down I always look for one that has minimum or NO balance weights from the factory, then you have a better chance of getting a good balance
Very true. If the ends are in straight.. a "good" driveline guy can straighten the driveline. You just need to know what your doing with the heat. All the weights need to be knocked off and start over.

If you ever get a "newly' balanced shaft that has 2 or more weights next to each other that go around the shaft... I would ask them to double check it. That is a NO NO and I see it quite often.
07-11-2012 11:19 PM
timothale
good balance

When I need a drive shaft cut down I always look for one that has minimum or NO balance weights from the factory, then you have a better chance of getting a good balance
07-11-2012 09:02 PM
prostreet6t9 If the Driveline shop has a good machine with a computer balancer they have the capability to do a good driveline even if its a "truck" shop. as with anything.. its only as good as the operator.

As with any machine.. every now and then the computer will throw out funny numbers for a balance. It's very important for the shop to check the calibration of the machine VERY often to catch anything weird.
07-11-2012 09:33 AM
zildjian4life218
Quote:
Originally Posted by S10 Racer View Post
Place jack stands under the axle to simulate the vehicle sitting on the ground. One word of advice, if you have a driveshaft made, make sure you don't use a "truck" shop. They rarely get driveshafts balanced for use in a vehicle that runs over 50mph. But, that's just my opinion.
and thats where I had my last drive shaft made... figures
07-11-2012 09:32 AM
zildjian4life218
Quote:
Originally Posted by S10xGN View Post
It would be the same, wouldn't it?

Russ
you would this so. idk about other vehicles but when jacking up the rear end in my car it will travel upwards some before the body of the vehicle actually starts to move.
07-11-2012 09:11 AM
S10xGN
Quote:
Originally Posted by zildjian4life218 View Post
Now when you say rear axle fully loaded do you mean like jack it up in the air and put jack stands under the rear end and place the car weight on it, or just while the vehicle is sitting on the rearend normally.
It would be the same, wouldn't it?

Russ
07-11-2012 08:50 AM
S10 Racer Place jack stands under the axle to simulate the vehicle sitting on the ground. One word of advice, if you have a driveshaft made, make sure you don't use a "truck" shop. They rarely get driveshafts balanced for use in a vehicle that runs over 50mph. But, that's just my opinion.
07-11-2012 08:44 AM
zildjian4life218
Quote:
Originally Posted by S10xGN View Post
Could only be the tubing, shaft ends, and labor. As for measuring, I've always put the car up where I can get under it comfortably (making sure the rear axle is fully loaded) then measure center to center on the u-joints with the trans yoke pulled out 3/4" from fully inserted. There are other ways to measure, so whatever you use, be sure to tell the shop exactly how you measured.

Russ
Now when you say rear axle fully loaded do you mean like jack it up in the air and put jack stands under the rear end and place the car weight on it, or just while the vehicle is sitting on the rearend normally.
07-11-2012 08:24 AM
S10xGN
Quote:
Originally Posted by zildjian4life218 View Post
Yeah I didn't really think about it at the time because I had been waiting so long to get the car on the road since rebuilding the rearend and rebuilding the engine. But the more I look around something wasn't right. I know the flange for the 8.8 they had to order in which was like $30 and im sure the trans yoke was about $50... so where did the rest of the price come in? This weekend I am gonna dig up the receipt if I still have it and look it all over.
Could only be the tubing, shaft ends, and labor. As for measuring, I've always put the car up where I can get under it comfortably (making sure the rear axle is fully loaded) then measure center to center on the u-joints with the trans yoke pulled out 3/4" from fully inserted. There are other ways to measure, so whatever you use, be sure to tell the shop exactly how you measured.

Russ
07-11-2012 05:07 AM
zildjian4life218
Quote:
Originally Posted by prostreet6t9 View Post
TH 350 1310 26 on 27 1.500 * 5.469 * 2-3-6081X
TH 350 1310 26 on 27 1.500 * 6.417 * 2-3-11071X
TH 350 3R 26 on 27 1.500 * 5.469 * 7812557
TH 350 1330 26 on 27 1.500 * 6.76 * 2-3-12051X
TH 350 1350 26 on 27 1.500 * 6.938 * 3-3-4281X

They are measured from center of the cap hole to the end.

Those are the common numbers.
Awesome perfect! I will order one of those and then go have a new shaft made with new ends. Thanks for all the input everyone!
07-10-2012 11:47 AM
prostreet6t9
Quote:
Originally Posted by zildjian4life218 View Post
the transmission is a th350. Do you measure from the middle of the u joint to the edge that goes into the transmission? and unsure of the length cause I scrapped the other trans flange. It had broke from the previous owner and he welded it back together
TH 350 1310 26 on 27 1.500 * 5.469 * 2-3-6081X
TH 350 1310 26 on 27 1.500 * 6.417 * 2-3-11071X
TH 350 3R 26 on 27 1.500 * 5.469 * 7812557
TH 350 1330 26 on 27 1.500 * 6.76 * 2-3-12051X
TH 350 1350 26 on 27 1.500 * 6.938 * 3-3-4281X

They are measured from center of the cap hole to the end.

Those are the common numbers.
07-10-2012 10:36 AM
zildjian4life218
Quote:
Originally Posted by S10xGN View Post
Zil,

We get them built from scratch here for $280, all you need to supply is the correct dimensions and what joints you are gonna use...

Russ

Yeah I didn't really think about it at the time because I had been waiting so long to get the car on the road since rebuilding the rearend and rebuilding the engine. But the more I look around something wasn't right. I know the flange for the 8.8 they had to order in which was like $30 and im sure the trans yoke was about $50... so where did the rest of the price come in? This weekend I am gonna dig up the receipt if I still have it and look it all over.
07-10-2012 10:33 AM
zildjian4life218
Quote:
Originally Posted by prostreet6t9 View Post
Which Trans do you have? How long is the Yoke your using now?
the transmission is a th350. Do you measure from the middle of the u joint to the edge that goes into the transmission? and unsure of the length cause I scrapped the other trans flange. It had broke from the previous owner and he welded it back together
07-10-2012 09:08 AM
S10xGN
Quote:
Originally Posted by zildjian4life218 View Post
Thanks for all the replies everyone! I think I will just buy a new transmission yoke and have the driveshaft lengthened. Seems like the better way to go. The last place I had make me a drive shaft it ended up being like $450 and from what everyone else told me that was on the high side so maybe I will try somewhere different this time.
Zil,

We get them built from scratch here for $280, all you need to supply is the correct dimensions and what joints you are gonna use...

Russ
07-10-2012 08:51 AM
prostreet6t9
Quote:
Originally Posted by zildjian4life218 View Post
Thanks for all the replies everyone! I think I will just buy a new transmission yoke and have the driveshaft lengthened. Seems like the better way to go. The last place I had make me a drive shaft it ended up being like $450 and from what everyone else told me that was on the high side so maybe I will try somewhere different this time.
Which Trans do you have? How long is the Yoke your using now?
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