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Topic Review (Newest First)
06-08-2013 07:47 AM
twinpilot001
ac = problems

all posts are great info !! do it all! I would suggest - as likely the evaporator was =coroded inside- to flush the entire system out with a flushing agent too! prior to replaving any driers.Likely also will need a new compressor. dont be cheap as if system is coroded?? that stuff is already in the compressor!!
06-07-2013 10:37 PM
mitmaks
Quote:
Originally Posted by LATECH View Post
compressor problem.. Like a weak cylinder, or a faulty reed plate.
I remember that system wasn't vacuumed before charging it with R134a. would this cause moisture problems, etc. I know A/C is not blowing real cold. Should I evacuate, vacuum and recharge system?
08-04-2012 07:50 PM
LATECH compressor problem.. Like a weak cylinder, or a faulty reed plate.
08-04-2012 07:02 PM
mitmaks I have another car and high pressure side needle is vibrating. What could cause this?
08-04-2012 06:22 PM
LATECH Ideally you would flush it out and get it clean. Synthetic PAG mixes with ALL oils , that takes all the worry out. get system clean as possible, and assemble. It will be good to go.
08-04-2012 02:01 PM
mitmaks
Quote:
Originally Posted by LATECH View Post
No problem. O rings wont know the difference.
I would however see if there is an exspansion valve available for the R134.
Check to see if a 94 valve will fit, then use it.It is better calibrated for 134a . It will cool a little better, and more importantly keep the head pressure (high pressure side in the compressor) down so the compressor doesnt work so hard, and lives longer.
If you have O rings to replace the areas that you are dissasembling , use them. If not, as long as they are pliable, and are not deformed to the shape they are when installed under pressure, use them.When an o ring takes a set to a shape other than round, either circumferentially, or radialy they are NOT OK. Naturaly any O ring that is cut or split is a no brainer. Hope this helps.
Do I have to remove all the old oil (mineral) from system/AC compressor or would PAG be fine in it?
08-01-2012 09:11 AM
302 Z28
Quote:
Originally Posted by LATECH View Post
You would be suprised how many people dont know about running the HVAC on Recirc. If only they would read the owners manual...
Exactly, when I was working as a mechaic that is how I solved quite a few A/C problems.

Vince
07-31-2012 07:28 PM
LATECH You would be suprised how many people dont know about running the HVAC on Recirc. If only they would read the owners manual...
07-31-2012 06:24 PM
mitmaks Took my gauges to work today to check co-workers truck. He was complaining that it takes forever to cool off air inside. First thing I've noticed is his recirculate wasn't on. Turned it on and temp went to ~40 like it should
07-30-2012 07:01 PM
mitmaks Now just waiting for a/c dryer for my mazda. Should be here this weekend. I haven't had working A/C on it since I've owned it. I just hope compressor will work and PAG oil won't mess it up.
07-30-2012 06:53 PM
LATECH ...............
07-30-2012 05:16 PM
mitmaks What I did with oil is I've dumped 1/2 in the dryer and then dumped some in the yellow hose/recharge hose. Opened can and bled it to make sure there was no air and then I've opened low pressure side and charged it that way.
It didn't want to cool off much (thermometer in the vent) stayed at ~60-65F and then I drove it around and I guess it stabilized and now its ~45F like its supposed to.
07-30-2012 03:52 PM
LATECH Not sure why, maybe to help redistribute oil, dunno.
Everyone charges through the low side , except maybe the factory where they have the equiptment to dump a liquid charge in the high side on the assembly line. Its fast that way, and the charge is accurate, but I am sure it aint cheap.
Charge through the low side .
I allways turn a compressor after I install one, to make sure the oil redistributes itself, to keep the compressor from hydrolocking and breaking it. Usually I rotate it 12 -15 revolutions , with a socket on the clutch nut. If there is no nut , i turn it by its face. just as long as you turn it, you'll be sure the compressor doesnt get damaged.
You better watch out, you'll be an old AC pro before you know it,
07-29-2012 10:46 PM
mitmaks I've been reading factory repair manuals and it states when charging I should open high-pressure side of manifold and charge until low-pressure side reading is at 10psi. Then you check for leaks and it there's no leaks you're supposed to charge with the half of regular amount of refrigerant. This is supposed to be with engine off.
I've always though you only charge on low side but factory service manuals state otherwise.
07-25-2012 05:24 PM
LATECH It allows them to slide into the coupling without getting pinched or cut.
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