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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-27-2012 12:46 PM
66GMC
Quote:
Originally Posted by big gear head View Post
...
Welding cast iron is not an easy job.
...
Yes, so I have been told.
I had pulled a 351C - 4V engine out a completely demolished 1971 Torino.
It was slammed so hard that most of the engine peripherals were broken, icluding the exhaust manifolds. (My Dad thought I was nuts ... "expensive boat anchor")

So yeah, one of the exhaust ports had a big chunk missing out of it. Someone suggested taking it up to Ernie Symons in Rocanville, Saskatchewan ... as he was an expert welder. It turns out that this fellow was the inventor of the "Symons Oiler" pump oil can. Who knew?

Quote:
In 1924 a local entrepreneur, Ernie Symons, began mass-production in Rocanville of an oil can that he designed for use on farm and industrial machinery. Symons Oilers proved to be the best of their kind, and a small shop turned into a factory. During World War II, the oil cans were greatly in demand for the maintenance of aircraft, tanks, and other military equipment; by the end of the war, over one million had been produced at the Rocanville plant. On July 1, 1973, the community honoured Ernie Symons for 50 continuous years in business: the day was proclaimed Symons Day, and a giant-scale model oiler was erected on a base at the east entrance to the town. After Symons’ death, the factory was purchased by another company, which changed the oil can’s design; however, it proved unsuccessful and the plant folded in the late 1980s.


BTW ... He fixed it up perfectly!
07-27-2012 06:16 AM
big gear head
Quote:
Originally Posted by 66GMC View Post
Fordification has a pretty good list of axle tag id's.

The Ranger Station has the Explorer width measurements you're looking for.

Interesting to note that they suggest welding the axle tubes to the center section.
Welding the axle tubes is a good idea as long as it is done right. The center casting is cast iron and the axle tubes are steel. The only way that I know of to weld these two materials together is with nickel. I know of many people who have used a MIG welder with steel wire to stick them together, but this will break if it is stressed. It will look fine, but the weld will break off of the cast iron when stressed. Welding cast iron is not an easy job. I've been a certified welder for over 25 years and it's not an easy job for me. How to weld axle tubes on GM 8.5" 10-bolt - NastyZ28.com
07-26-2012 11:17 PM
prostreet6t9 [QUOTE=S10 Racer;1577446]For what it's worth, I found this YouTube video of how they work.

I've seen that interesting video.. Since they have such a good warranty,I'd just like to have one apart to see the inside.
07-26-2012 11:07 PM
prostreet6t9
Quote:
Originally Posted by 66GMC View Post

Interesting to note that they suggest welding the axle tubes to the center section.
Pretty common practice in HP applications.
07-26-2012 08:46 PM
S10 Racer
Quote:
Originally Posted by prostreet6t9 View Post
That's a true story.. I've been pretty Lucky and Thankful this race season and done quite a few of them.. They are one trick piece. I would love to get one apart and see whats up.
For what it's worth, I found this YouTube video of how they work.
07-26-2012 08:02 PM
66GMC Fordification has a pretty good list of axle tag id's.

The Ranger Station has the Explorer width measurements you're looking for.

Interesting to note that they suggest welding the axle tubes to the center section.
07-26-2012 06:10 PM
prostreet6t9
Quote:
Originally Posted by big gear head View Post
I've sold a few, but I haven't had my hands on one. It's hard to sell a differential for $800+ these days.
That's a true story.. I've been pretty Lucky and Thankful this race season and done quite a few of them.. They are one trick piece. I would love to get one apart and see whats up.
07-26-2012 06:06 AM
big gear head I've sold a few, but I haven't had my hands on one. It's hard to sell a differential for $800+ these days.
07-25-2012 07:42 PM
prostreet6t9 Not to hijack the OP's thread.. Hey BGH.. Have you used any of the WaveTrac's yet? I've been doing quite a few and seem to be a killer piece. I wanna take one apart so I can check out the inside.. But with a Limited Lifetime Warranty I figure I better leave it alone..
07-25-2012 07:37 PM
prostreet6t9 I would pull cover and ID so you know for sure. The tooth count should be marked on the edge of the ring gear. You will see the clutch's if it's a Trac/Lok.

You never know if someone has done changes to the diff over the years and you could probably use fresh oil anyway. Use some additive if it's the Trac/Lok.
07-25-2012 09:52 AM
big gear head The L between the 3 and 73 says it's a Trac Lock.
07-25-2012 08:50 AM
flathead530 I was assuming that it was a 3.73 but wasn't sure that it was traction loc since the other tag didn't list limited slip additives as earlier ford tags had. Thank you for confirming.
07-25-2012 08:31 AM
big gear head I'm assuming that you already know it's a 3.73 gear with the Trac Lock differential. I don't know what the other code it. What exactly is it that you want to know about this rear end?
07-25-2012 08:29 AM
flathead530 I don't have the capability to send pictures. It is an 8.8 Ford from a 1998 Explorer with tag code S613C also has 3L73 an R and a 7K15 on the tag. An other tag on the differential says 75W 140W Synthetic oil only (nothing about using additives).
07-25-2012 05:57 AM
big gear head How about a picture or two?
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