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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-01-2012 11:01 PM
WDCreech Simple diagnosis; Remove the #1 plug, put your thumb over the hole, have someone tap the starter until you feel pressure, Use a wrench to turn the damper to the top dead center mark and then take the distributor cap off to see where the rotor is pointing. I'll bet it will be pointing to #6 plug wire.
08-01-2012 06:32 PM
mikey'sf-85
olds 330

No dist. is in proper place and wires are all correct, i was told to mix some fuel with 110 race fuel, it runs with a 2 to 1 mix ratio of high test and 110 race fuel. Thank You to everyone who responded it was driving me up a wall. Yes machine work was done and i guess we got it a little tighter than i calculated. But Thank You to everyone who posted.
07-30-2012 10:40 PM
Rineholio I believe you chucked the distributor in on number one exhaust stroke instead of compression. Pull #1 spark plug, put finger in hole, turn engine until you feel compression, when it's about top dead center check where the rotor is pointing.
07-30-2012 10:13 PM
FmrStrtracer Is the resistor wire connected to the (-) side of the coil? It should be.

Have you rechecked the plugs?

Progress?
07-29-2012 05:03 PM
mikey'sf-85
Quote:
Originally Posted by painted jester View Post
It may be the condenser? Just had one do it to me (brand new out of the box was bad) I was throwing fits and then put the old condenser on and it started !!! I was mad as hell!!!LOL

Jester
If it was only one yea but there has been 3 new condensors and the old one that was on it when i spun a rod bearing and nothing changes, im beyond mad this car is getting the best of me, I will say I LOVE MY OLD FORD it acts up but still runs and this hand me down olds is a pain
07-29-2012 04:10 PM
painted jester It may be the condenser? Just had one do it to me (brand new out of the box was bad) I was throwing fits and then put the old condenser on and it started !!! I was mad as hell!!!LOL

Jester
07-29-2012 03:22 PM
mikey'sf-85
olds 330

Quote:
Originally Posted by lmsport View Post
Should have 12V to coil when cranking. Run a jumper to the coil + from the battery + and try it.
I did and still get the same results,
07-29-2012 11:14 AM
lmsport Should have 12V to coil when cranking. Run a jumper to the coil + from the battery + and try it.
07-29-2012 09:36 AM
mikey'sf-85
olds 330

Quote:
Originally Posted by WDCreech View Post
Is this a case of firing while you are cranking, but stops when you let the key off of start? If so, you're not getting juice through the resister wire to your coil. Been there done that!

Bill
Yes little screwy but keeps voltage there at all times while key is on
07-29-2012 09:34 AM
mikey'sf-85
olds 330

stock points yes. have retimed cam also. Even had shop that did machine work for me come over and look at it, Chevy shop, but they build great dirt track engines. As far as juice, yes its a littlle screwy but it does maintain at least 6.8 volts at all time even when not trying to start motor as long as key is on.
07-28-2012 11:56 PM
WDCreech Is this a case of firing while you are cranking, but stops when you let the key off of start? If so, you're not getting juice through the resister wire to your coil. Been there done that!

Bill
07-28-2012 10:07 PM
FmrStrtracer Where is base timing set?

Did you degree the cam?

Is this the stock points distributor?
07-28-2012 09:59 PM
mikey'sf-85
olds 330

Ok I have tried that, i have made that mistake before too, solid adjustable all adjusted to crane specs for cam. have great compression. It tries to run just will not, hits on several cylinders just not enough to fire up. Does not back fire at all or belch back thru carb.
07-28-2012 08:10 PM
mike Crawford I have seen people put the wires on clockwise and the rotor turned counter clockwise .
07-28-2012 08:09 PM
FmrStrtracer 18436572 Counter Clock-wise?

Ive wired them wrong a couple of times.

Stock or adjustable valve train?
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