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Topic Review (Newest First)
Today 07:26 AM
496CHEVY3100 Good luck with the Cam ,my neighbor builds Mud Bogger engines he has had a LOT of flat lobes latly and most have been 268H seems most were on #4 don't know why ,most are going flat on break in,, I had ` go bad but it brohe between 4 & 6 destroyed block ,Original block for my Z28
I just installed a Com in a BBC with good results ,and I used Plenty of Zinc , I bought this at Summitt and Did Not use the lube That comes with cam.

several of the racers in this area are using Quaker State HUGH Mileage with great results ,as it contains Zinc

A Good note for Comp Cans thry replaced my cam for the sbc that broke
also they replaced ( 4 ) cams for Shawn that went flat ,I am guessing a bad batch of cams because they did not want the old cam or parts sent back so they could check for defects.
Today 01:27 AM
Docc It looks like if I just do the cam..I can without pulling the engine. Stude has a long snout that unbolts...
Today 01:01 AM
Docc Well..I have been gone from here for almost a year..a lot has gone on..
The Jaguar runs like a beast...and the Studebaker has until 5 months ago..

This is the first car I bought not built and did not at least assemble the engine.. I have always used ZDDP..Valvoline Racing oil..
Welp//
After having the car for three years and 15,000+ miles..my wife went on her first longer ride to Goodguys in Scottsdale..naturally..it ran good..but I have been chasing a minor shake at just above idle..
I have driven the car decently..but often cruise desolate Arizona back roads at 90+..with the 700R..it is smooth and fast..

Then as we got to Phoenix..
Popping through carb at shaking whenever more than slight throttle
Figured it was a rounded cam lobe.. Worked on any other option in hotel parking lot.. So we left Saturday morning to limp home..
About 50 miles and it gets worse..then backfires and dies as I am trying to pull off but caught a red light..
Hard to start..but..what the hell !! Starts..runs smooth..no backfire..no miss ? Has good power.. Maybe I was wrong..Electrical ?? Bad gas ?
Wife says it was prayers..I think it ain't over yet..
Runs well the next 100 miles to home. In the morning I start and runs ok.. Didi the water on header..and seems I do have a dead cylinder.

Actually it was Intake and Exhaust on #4..seems odd two lobes next to each other.. I'll see better when I pull the manifold..

So..it sat..I was pretty ill for a bit..but getting stronger now..so new cam time. Looks like any metal was caught in K&N Filter..no pasty fine powder in oil..but I will no better when I look closer next week hopefully. Need to get this done before summer heat down here.. Mau do a complete rebuild..or just a real good flush. I use large magnets on all my cars oil pans..saved the Jaguar when I popped several lifters (GM Performance) being stupid..
Using 268H AGAIN..same as the one rounded..
My Jaguar (350) is flat tappet with about 23,000..always ZDDP..and broke in correctly..

Engine on Stude seems well built..but have no idea about oil used or break in. It was built about 8 years ago..

So..I am back in garage..
Yesterday 09:29 PM
lowROLLERchevy well, thought i wasnt going to work on ANYTHING today, but as it turns out the oil change pit at the shop is flooded.

Our building USED to be an automotive repair shop, so it has a center floor drain and an oil change pit. I heard earlier that the floor drain pit was up to the grate, but when i got to the shop it was drained ....

sewer is plugged, sump pump died, water drained back from the floor drain into the pit and now the pit has 4 fet of water. I have 3 pumps running right now so i can go home asap.

My family does basement water proofing .... but our company shop has a flooded basement... frack ...
Yesterday 12:33 PM
1971BB427 Finally got my cross ram running well, and leaned out. Plugs are a nice tan color, and no eyes burning at idle! Dropped jet size down 8 sizes from #66 to #58, and power valves down from 6.5 to 3.5. I may go up a couple sizes on jets later if the plug color indicates it's a bit lean, but will give it some miles first.
Scored a new driver's side window regulator on CL yesterday! Seller said it has sat in his garage since the 70's when his son built a Falcon, so it's in great shape! Now I wont have to worry about the window dropping and shattering door glass!
Yesterday 10:25 AM
mud.man.rj
trunk...

That truck is picture perfect.
Yesterday 10:23 AM
Too Many Projects Just finished the one hour power clean for company coming over...

Hope everyone has a good Easter....
Yesterday 08:03 AM
John long
Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
I thought your body lift was ingenious...

That way leaves the chassis on the floor, able to roll around. That should be a good way to get the body on a roto and roll the chassis out from under.
Only mod I would make, is a nut welded on the bottom of the all thread to facilitate use of an impact or ratchet to turn the rod.
Wow! What a great idea!!! It never entered my mind!!? Couple that with a long splice nut on top for security and you would have one great system.

See, I told you I was the student! Thanks Mitch

John
Yesterday 07:57 AM
Too Many Projects
Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
We are all blessed to have friends who not only appreciate what we are doing but care about us personally. It is a two way street for sure.

I am the student here. Just sharing what I am learning and have learned. The big differance between me and you pro's is I can take all day to do a 30 minute job. Time does not equate to money for me.

Example: Several people asked me why I didn't jack up the car, suspend the body and just let the chassis down instead of spending all that time raising the body with four pieces of all-thread.

Short answer.......I didn't want to.....and .....my time is free. Slow and easy was the way I thought it would be the most fun.

Knowing you guys who do restoration work for a living even take a second look at my project is priceless to me. Just too cool.



John
I thought your body lift was ingenious...

That way leaves the chassis on the floor, able to roll around. That should be a good way to get the body on a roto and roll the chassis out from under.
Only mod I would make, is a nut welded on the bottom of the all thread to facilitate use of an impact or ratchet to turn the rod.
Yesterday 07:35 AM
John long
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
That's all great John but you got it backwards ...Its us that are blessed to have YOU as a friend and role model,not only to improve our skills but ourselves.
We are all blessed to have friends who not only appreciate what we are doing but care about us personally. It is a two way street for sure.

I am the student here. Just sharing what I am learning and have learned. The big differance between me and you pro's is I can take all day to do a 30 minute job. Time does not equate to money for me.

Example: Several people asked me why I didn't jack up the car, suspend the body and just let the chassis down instead of spending all that time raising the body with four pieces of all-thread.

Short answer.......I didn't want to.....and .....my time is free. Slow and easy was the way I thought it would be the most fun.

Knowing you guys who do restoration work for a living even take a second look at my project is priceless to me. Just too cool.



John
Yesterday 06:24 AM
Too Many Projects
Quote:
Originally Posted by Galaxie65 View Post
Did a very slight mod to my rear suspension today. It always bugged me that my rear suspension was hung with bolts using the threads as load bearing points. I swear I could feel stuff moving around back there, almost like the rear end was skating around a bit. The rear end would also clunk most times when I shifted unless I was super gentle. Here's how the original bolts fit through the brackets....

I got some longer grade 8 bolts and cut off the excess threads, now they fit like this...

No more clunking and the car feels quite a bit more stable. Such a simple thing!
I've run across that before too. Usually the bracket hole will be worn out of round with threads embossed in the metal. I have cut reinforcing plates and welded them on to center the bolt and close up the hole again.
Yesterday 05:41 AM
123pugsy
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
That's all great John but you got it backwards ...Its us that are blessed to have YOU as a friend and role model,not only to improve our skills but ourselves.
X2.

Man, does that trunk pan look nice in there. Really moves the project forward.
Yesterday 04:43 AM
deadbodyman
Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
One of my friends and I slid the trunk floor in today. I also bolted on the EMS rear splash apron. It will give me a great template for making the tail pan under the deck lid. We worked hard today

Thanks again to any and all who helped make this day happen. I am indeed a blessed man to have the friends I have in this world.

John



That's all great John but you got it backwards ...Its us that are blessed to have YOU as a friend and role model,not only to improve our skills but ourselves.
04-19-2014 10:23 PM
Galaxie65 Did a very slight mod to my rear suspension today. It always bugged me that my rear suspension was hung with bolts using the threads as load bearing points. I swear I could feel stuff moving around back there, almost like the rear end was skating around a bit. The rear end would also clunk most times when I shifted unless I was super gentle. Here's how the original bolts fit through the brackets....


I got some longer grade 8 bolts and cut off the excess threads, now they fit like this...


No more clunking and the car feels quite a bit more stable. Such a simple thing! After that, I replaced my 50 year old strut rod bushings. Actually was surprised at how easy that job was. Start by unbolting the strut rod instead of taking three other things apart first to get at it, lol.

Also redid my brakes again! I put in a 15/16 master cylinder instead of the 1" one I put in a few weeks ago. I also realized after I had done the 1" MC that I still had my original rubber line at the rear end so I replaced that and the two front lines (Why not?) with some nice new stainless braided and plastic sheathed hoses. Much better pedal pressure now, I think this MC is a keeper. Unfortunately have one leaky fitting. Must not have got that flare quite right, will have to cut the flare off and redo it. Pretty sure the line is long enough I can get away with that. Just hate cracking that stuff open again, such a mess.
04-19-2014 09:38 PM
lowROLLERchevy WHACK!

cut of the transverse brace, the seat lock, and both sides of the shock mount.
Checked the angle of the original frame (5* at its current spot)
Reset my gauge for 13* total
cut the frame, bent them up, and threw a tack weld on.
Double checked they are parrallel
Cut off the rear section of the hoop
Started plotting how i want to trim the wheel well









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