|08-11-2012 04:32 PM|
Thanks everyone for your ideas!
|08-10-2012 11:46 AM|
|68NovaSS||Well, not if you removed them...|
|08-10-2012 10:36 AM|
I drifted plug into block so I could drain water.
Ive always drifted them in before and used grips to "twist them out"
Do you think it will cause overheating problems then?
|08-10-2012 10:29 AM|
You can try to run it with the plug in there but anticipate cooling probems.
|08-10-2012 10:07 AM|
I did try to undo the bolts near the pan rail as well,they were siezed solid! I also drained bottom of radiator suggested by AP72 but it only drains just above water pump holes! So I knock a core plug in(just under heads) to drain the water.
I was going to use a wire brush on a drill but worried about one of the strands coming out and getting in the motor.
Thanks for everyone ideas!
How can I get core plug out of the water jacket it fell in and down!
Can I leave it in there? I was rushing again not thinking!
|08-10-2012 08:51 AM|
How do you remove these? Mine are stuck and when I tried to remove them the head started rounding off. When I had the machine shop rebuild the shortblock I asked them to replace them, but they 'forgot'. My father in law says the old trick is to replace the bolts with a marine style drain petcock so you never had to unscrew them again (not sure what do to on the road if they start leaking though).
|08-10-2012 06:58 AM|
|DoubleVision||I use a drill with a wire brush to clean the surfaces. When I'm doing the heads I lay a rag into the intake valley to keep the junk out of the crank case.|
|08-10-2012 06:58 AM|
A little less "effort" to accomplish the same thing Lynn (LATECH) is talking about... remove the 1/4 NPT plugs on both sides of the block near the pan "rails". This will drain the coolant from the block entirely. They generally have a 9/16" "head".
Some "buddies" may suggest using a ScotchBrite pad on a right-angle grinder to remove the gasket material. DO NOT DO IT!!! The flat scraper is the best way. Follow it up with a light "dusting" with a medium or coarse wire wheel (cup). Many line mechanics use the ScotchBrite stuff. We ineveitably have to mill an "extra" .005" off a head due to the rounded edges and uneven "plane" they leave behind. If you see a "spark" fly off, it isn't ScotchBrite. It's iron... They do even more unapparent damage to aluminum.
|08-10-2012 06:55 AM|
|08-10-2012 02:55 AM|
For next time you remove the intake manifold or a cylinder head, first pump out the water from the engine water jackets using a windshield washer pump and some windshield washer hose.
remove the heater hose from the manifold and stick the WWpump hose down the heater hose nipple. it will go down into the cylinder head water jacket. Pump it into a bucket or jug.
Pump out enough water/coolant to get the level below the level of the decks of the block.
Now you won't spill water/coolant down in the oil pan when removing the heads.
|08-10-2012 01:11 AM|
|vinniekq2||after you run the new heads for a day,change the oil again and do a nut and bolt check|
|08-10-2012 12:31 AM|
Thanks for that! good info,I built the engine last year the block was already cleaned im just upgrading to aluminium heads,I need more power now!
|08-10-2012 12:23 AM|
|bullheimer||absolutely change the oil before you start it back up... or try to start it back up. water in oil or not. don't cheap out. n any scraper will work, or single edge razor blade, esp in a blade holder avail at parts store. wipe with thinner or something first. good luck on this....first engine build? just don't dig the edges of your scraper into the block, keep it square to it.|
|08-10-2012 12:02 AM|
block prep work
What do you use to clean old gasket material from the cylinder block when getting ready for dropping new heads on? and when I removed heads some water went into oil ways then into sump,do you recommend changing oil?
thanks in advance?