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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-14-2012 07:32 PM
bigdog7373 Good. Thats actually more than enough. I use 87 with 9.5:1 compression.
Get the 180 t stat and you'll be good to go.
08-14-2012 05:30 PM
the82elco
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdog7373 View Post
Run a 180 t stat. The 600 carb is fine, i have the same one on my 350. You may be getting some detonation. What octane fuel do you use?
i use 91 octane.
08-14-2012 04:15 PM
bigdog7373 Run a 180 t stat. The 600 carb is fine, i have the same one on my 350. You may be getting some detonation. What octane fuel do you use?
08-13-2012 03:34 PM
the82elco
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldbogie View Post
If youre using a flow restrictor and have an adaquatly sized radiator what you are are seeing is typical.

Is this a race only or street driven, I see a small carb compared to the 350 inches and a fairly big cam. Kind of an odd combo.

The 600 CFM will not be lean if it's metered correctly i.e. jet, metering rod sizes and metering piston springs versus manifold vacumm which is probably rather low with the 280 cam.

I'm not a fan of running without a thermostat unless this is a competition only engine. The point of flow restrictor instead of a thermostat is simply the simplifaction of a device that can cause a problem by its failure. Getting enough flow is not the issue. The problem with arestritor is the messing around to find the size that works in the desired temperature range by the methods of coping other people's efforts or the messy process of cut and try.

For a street engine low operating temps really kill life expectancy. When the engine isn't hot enough the clearances are too wide, the oil doesn't get hot enough to boil off the water that gets into it, fuel condenses on the upper cylinder walls wiping out the top end lubrication of rings to wall. Just a long list of problems that reduce engine life. A thermostat gets the engine warmed up and holds a tight temperature range so clearances remain very steady across a wide operating range. The oil needs to run about 200 degrees to drive water from it, this is constantly renewed by the blow by which is about 50% waters of combustion, the rest unburnt fuel that needs to be evaporated out, and oxides of carbon and nitrogen. Unburnt fuel that condenses on the upper cylinder walls and in the ring lands wipes out what thin lube is on the upper wall as it is causing mico-welding between the upper ring and cylinder wall which erodes both. What works for a race engine that sees at least yearly teardowns and fixes if not more frequently is not conducive to long engine life on the street.

Bogie
its a street driven car. so i should get rid of the restrictor an run a 180-190F thermostat?
08-13-2012 03:26 PM
oldbogie
Quote:
Originally Posted by the82elco View Post
ok i have a sbc 350 bore 40 over 280h cam ,rpm intake ,600 edelbrock carb,long tube headers, dual electric fans, & after like 15 mins of running my temp gauge reads 160 an when i drive it around the block it goes up to 190. should it run cooler or is this ok? Also is 9.9.1 compression good!??
Quote:
Originally Posted by the82elco View Post
ok i have a sbc 350 bore 40 over 280h cam ,rpm intake ,600 edelbrock carb,long tube headers, dual electric fans, & after like 15 mins of running my temp gauge reads 160 an when i drive it around the block it goes up to 190. should it run cooler or is this ok? Also is 9.9.1 compression good!??
If youre using a flow restrictor and have an adaquatly sized radiator what you are are seeing is typical.

Is this a race only or street driven, I see a small carb compared to the 350 inches and a fairly big cam. Kind of an odd combo.

The 600 CFM will not be lean if it's metered correctly i.e. jet, metering rod sizes and metering piston springs versus manifold vacumm which is probably rather low with the 280 cam.

I'm not a fan of running without a thermostat unless this is a competition only engine. The point of flow restrictor instead of a thermostat is simply the simplifaction of a device that can cause a problem by its failure. Getting enough flow is not the issue. The problem with arestritor is the messing around to find the size that works in the desired temperature range by the methods of coping other people's efforts or the messy process of cut and try.

For a street engine low operating temps really kill life expectancy. When the engine isn't hot enough the clearances are too wide, the oil doesn't get hot enough to boil off the water that gets into it, fuel condenses on the upper cylinder walls wiping out the top end lubrication of rings to wall. Just a long list of problems that reduce engine life. A thermostat gets the engine warmed up and holds a tight temperature range so clearances remain very steady across a wide operating range. The oil needs to run about 200 degrees to drive water from it, this is constantly renewed by the blow by which is about 50% waters of combustion, the rest unburnt fuel that needs to be evaporated out, and oxides of carbon and nitrogen. Unburnt fuel that condenses on the upper cylinder walls and in the ring lands wipes out what thin lube is on the upper wall as it is causing mico-welding between the upper ring and cylinder wall which erodes both. What works for a race engine that sees at least yearly teardowns and fixes if not more frequently is not conducive to long engine life on the street.

Bogie
08-13-2012 01:18 PM
the82elco
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coppertop View Post
That 600 cfm carb may be causing your engine to run lean. That means more heat. But,honestly runnin a buck 90 is a good operating temp.
what size carb should i go with 750?
08-13-2012 08:36 AM
cdminter59
sbc 350 question

What type of heads are you using cast iron or aluminum? With cast iron could be on the edge of detonation. Do a search on here about engine timing and avoiding detonation or ask the question on this thread.
08-13-2012 07:21 AM
Coppertop That 600 cfm carb may be causing your engine to run lean. That means more heat. But,honestly runnin a buck 90 is a good operating temp.
08-10-2012 03:56 AM
F-BIRD'88 The slow 15 minute engine warm up time is greatly increasing engine wear and wasting gas. and shortening spark plug life and oil life ....not to mention polluting the air more than nessessary.

It will function better and last a lot longer with a 180-190F thermostat.

non thermostat water restrictors are race only.
08-09-2012 11:23 PM
vinniekq2 I also use a restrictor and a single core.rad.with electric fan. never ever o heats. watch yours for a while Im sure you are fine
08-09-2012 11:12 PM
the82elco
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
good compression ratio. thermostat? good rad? thats an ok temperature if all the equipment is in good condition.


no thermostat I'm using the gold water restrictor
radiator is good
08-09-2012 11:05 PM
vinniekq2 good compression ratio. thermostat? good rad? thats an ok temperature if all the equipment is in good condition.
08-09-2012 10:47 PM
the82elco
sbc 350 question

ok i have a sbc 350 bore 40 over 280h cam ,rpm intake ,600 edelbrock carb,long tube headers, dual electric fans, & after like 15 mins of running my temp gauge reads 160 an when i drive it around the block it goes up to 190. should it run cooler or is this ok? Also is 9.9.1 compression good!??

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