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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-15-2012 06:20 AM
Infinite Monkeys Hi,
That is just what I did, looking from bottom up. It is now running much better even with the intake leaks. Those will be fixed in about a week. and then I'll see what fine tuning the idle screws will need.
Thanks for your help.
08-14-2012 07:54 PM
cobalt327
Quote:
Originally Posted by Infinite Monkeys View Post
I was thinking I could at least base line the transfer slot for now. What I am confused on is if I take off the carb, can I adjust the throttle plates so the transfer slot is the recommended square’ish shape, or this must be done by looking from the top down. The diagram suggests the bottom up approach.
The transfer slot can be set w/the carb off the engine. The drawing shows what you'll see w/the carb upside down, looking up at the transfer slot from the intake plenum.

So don't set the transfer slot by looking down from the air horn towards the throttle plates. Instead set it by turning the carb over and look at the slot from "underneath".
08-13-2012 09:52 PM
Infinite Monkeys Got it (I hope).
Thank you.
08-13-2012 09:45 PM
RWENUTS Cobalts diagram shows how to set up the transition slot before you put the carb on. Yours is installed. Leave it there. Back off the high idle, hook your vacuum on your distributor to a manifold vacuum source, fix your other vacuum leaks, start her up, get it warmed up, set your idle to as slow as it will run nicely and then adjust the idle mixture screws. When you turn them in and your motor slows down you'll know you're throttle plate is in the correct position with regards to the transition slot.
Cobalts diagram shows the ideal transfer slot position. Your motor might be slightly different and will need more throttle plate opening.
08-13-2012 09:15 PM
Infinite Monkeys I was thinking I could at least base line the transfer slot for now. What I am confused on is if I take off the carb, can I adjust the throttle plates so the transfer slot is the recommended square’ish shape, or this must be done by looking from the top down. The diagram suggests the bottom up approach.
08-13-2012 06:14 PM
Infinite Monkeys I have new intake gaskets on order and should be here in about a week. Looks like I should not mess with it any more till I get the leaks sorted out. Because I get the feeling I'm going to be chasing symptoms, rather than fixing the problems methodically. So first the vacuum leaks, then I'll start over on the carb, timing, idle, etc.
But that will not be for another week or so. It's on the right path. Looks like you guys were standing in my driveway because you two have described the problems I was having better than I did.

Thanks
08-13-2012 05:56 PM
cobalt327
Quote:
Originally Posted by Infinite Monkeys View Post
Hi,
It's manual choke. Sorry but I do not have a picture of the carb. The Philips head screw is not rigging a bell, but I'll look when I get home tomorrow.
I think I forgot to mention, this is the two barrel. Don't know if 2300's came in 4 barrels as well.

Thanks
RWENUTS has set you on the right path. The amount of transfer slot that's exposed at idle has everything to do w/the quality of the idle and if the slot's overexposed, you'll get that rich smell (actually caused by unburned fuel, not overly rich air/fuel mixture).

Once you get the transfer slot base lined, you'll have control of the idle mixture by using the idle mixture screws. Usually screwing the idle mixture screws all the way CW will stall the engine, but especially if there are vacuum leaks this won't always be the case.

The drawing below shows the transition slot as seen with the carb held upside down. The drawing on the Left shows an overexposed transition slot. Baseline the throttle blades to give a transfer slot that looks like the image below, Right (approximately as long as it is wide):


To get the right amount of transfer slot exposed, the initial timing often needs to be advanced. Sometimes just connecting the vacuum advance to a full time (aka "manifold" vacuum) source (if it was connected to a ported source) will be enough to increase the idle speed so then the curb idle screw can be used to close the throttle plates- and lessen the transfer slot exposure along w/it.

More on ignition advance here.
08-13-2012 05:16 PM
RWENUTS Holley 2300's came as 2 bbls. Sized in 350 cfm, 500 cfm and 650 cfm.
08-13-2012 05:07 PM
Infinite Monkeys Hi,
It's manual choke. Sorry but I do not have a picture of the carb. The Philips head screw is not rigging a bell, but I'll look when I get home tomorrow.
I think I forgot to mention, this is the two barrel. Don't know if 2300's came in 4 barrels as well.

Thanks
08-13-2012 04:48 PM
RWENUTS The screw on the throttle is the idle speed screw.
The high idle screw is below the choke on the passenger side. It's a phillips head screw. Hard to see but it's there. CCW to slow the rpm down.
What choke do you have?
Manual or electric?
Got a pic of your carb?
08-13-2012 04:17 PM
Infinite Monkeys I do have another screw that adjusts the throttle plate and can make it stay open. This is what was causing my throttle plate to stay open more than it should and was having idling issues. Is this the high idle screw? I have this all the way closed so it has no effect on idle. Should I play around with this and turn it up a bit and then turn down the idle mix screws in the front of the carb.
Carbs are a PITA, but they are fun to tinker with.
Thanks for your help
08-13-2012 02:40 PM
RWENUTS THose 2 screws in the front of the carb are both idle mixture screws.
Did you know there's a high idle screw on the choke?
That can affect your idle.
08-13-2012 02:20 PM
Infinite Monkeys After finding that the throttle plate was not closing all the way and fixing that. I still could not get the engine to turn off by closing the idle screw down all the way. I figured it maybe that the screws are worn, so I took them both out and switched the idle with the mixture screw, both were the same size. Looks like the mixture screw was not as worn as the idle screw and this allowed me to make the engine go off when I closed it down all the way. I will buy new replacement screws.

Thanks
08-13-2012 12:56 PM
RWENUTS What do you mean you switched around the idle and mixture screws?
08-13-2012 09:58 AM
Infinite Monkeys Well looks like the throttle plate was open too far. I did not see the adjustment screw so couldn't figure out how to adjust it. I also switched around the idle and mixture screws and that also made it run better. Looks like I need new screws.
Thanks
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