|10-07-2012 08:32 AM|
If I can do it...
As the old saying goes, if you can do it then it shouldn't be a problem for me. Unlike you, my 1950 Austin was loaded with rust but I knew it when I bought it. As this was my first 'Project Car' I had no idea what I was up against. My buddy, who has built several Rods warned me against it, advising me to "cut my losses" but I was already too deep into it. Besides, I enjoy a good challenge. Well, 2 months later and progress, although slow is being made finally. As welding with a MIG is new to me it remains the biggest pain in my grinding wheel. Unlike others that have gone before me, I have most of the tools I need to build entire fenders if i choose, but I am patching as I go instead. The biggest problem has been trying to remember how it all goes back together. One piece of advice he gave me that I'm learning quickly, the 'why' factor. He told me to take plenty of pictures. It seems my memory isn't as dependable as I believed it would be. Thank gawd for photos! and good advice.
The biggest issue with this is the fact there is so much rust it is damn near impossible to figure out what it used to look like when metal was more commonly present.
Plug away my friend. It may seem like it should take a miracle to get through but all of a sudden one day, something will make a difference to everything so that you can move on confident in the fact that there are more hidden treats for you around the next corner!!!
I'll send you some pics of my fiasco if you need some inspiration. That big hole you keep talking about would be a considered minor sandblast pitting on my car. I know this isn't a contest to see who has the worst project car, but as the saying goes...if I can do it, you most certainly can too. Oh yeah, one last thing. My car used to be a four door. I wanted a two door so now I have one, and a back seat that will fill a stadium with speakers. If that wasn't enough, as a final test of my patients, I am going to be cutting the car in half lengthwise to widen it. I'm nothing if not a beggar for punishment! With the fenders pulled forward off the front of the car I am now contemplating making the whole mess a bit longer too, about 8" longer
|08-19-2012 10:59 AM|
Didn't get anything for the quaters but i did get both trans am fenders, a bumper, dash, gauge panel and all the gauges today.
Getting the spoiler, m22 4speed, and the wheel flares tomorrow.
|08-19-2012 07:17 AM|
|farna||More importantly, "is it worth it to you", and since this is a car you've owned before, I think you've answered that already! I think you've conveyed that you already know you[ll have more time and money into the car than it will be worth on the open market. Lots of us do! Those who fix cars for profit are just darned careful (or lucky!) what they buy and know how much they will have to do to get anything back out of it -- and sometimes fail even then. It can be done, but it's a gamble!|
|08-18-2012 05:44 PM|
Question is not; "is it repairable", because anything can be repaired, or re-built.
You can buy patch panels, or whole panels, and make them fit (kinda), or you can fabricate your own panels.
Question is; "Is it worth it?"
All it takes is money.
|08-17-2012 04:50 PM|
Back in the day when I was building my 76 TA I found a company that sold the shaker scoop that was around. 5" tall, fiberglass. It had an extension. Off the. bottom and mounted rite. to the hood. looked cool. I. will look. for. a. pic.
|08-17-2012 08:29 AM|
|08-17-2012 08:03 AM|
|1971BB427||You'll need more than just a hole in the hood for the shaker scoop. Need to figure some way to roll the edge on the opening, or it will not look finished.|
|08-16-2012 07:04 PM|
Found a guy parting out a 77 trans am. It's rusty in all different places than mine lol. I'm gonna grab the front fenders, front bumper and air dam, and the flares that go in font of each wheel so i have a "trans am" All i need to do then is cut the hole in the hood and find a shaker.
As for the rust in the quarters, i'm gonna order skins for both sides. That takes care of the corner by the lights and the other spots down low. I'll just make a patch for the top. Hopefully i won't find any more when i start pulling it apart but if i do then whatever i'll just have to fix it too.
Also getting a mostly the complete interior with gauges. And getting an m22 rock crusher to replace the th350. All this from one car! I think i'm doing pretty well
|08-16-2012 10:28 AM|
I've had my '71 Camaro for 39 years, and I'd fix anything on it to keep it going if it needed it. Fortunately mine's been a West Coast car garaged all it's life, so no rust at all.
|08-16-2012 07:08 AM|
Sometimes helpful but can be a pain is to take the ol magnet with you and go over the usual rust areas. Maybe you can send Guido and Vito to pay this dude a visit and rearrange his face a little.
|08-16-2012 05:52 AM|
Just look it over real good -- nothing wrong with that! Hopefully it's as you say and reasonably solid, especially if it's been in Florida most of its life. It may have been driven up north on a couple winter trips and not washed off, with a damaged or missing wheel well liner (assuming that model had liners) and got a lot of salty slush just in the one side. It happens! Or too many beach runs and that side got more slung up into it. Hopefully that's the case.
I've seen stranger things -- rear pillars rusted through and the rear roof with lots of flaking surface rust UNDERNEATH in a 64 Rambler wagon that came from FL. The fellow used it for a fishing car for years. I believe what happened was he had buckets of fish with a little (salt) water in the back a lot. On hot days water evaporated and got in the head liner, then condensed on the cool metal roof at night. That ran back and down the insides of the rear pillars...
|08-15-2012 06:50 PM|
You can predict that there's major damage all you want but the truth is that nobody know what kind of damage the car actually has. Cars rust in florida too guys, especially when you live 2 miles from the ocean. I've been in under around the car for hours, remeber I owned this car before this too, and noticed no rust underneath or on the subframe or rear frame rails. Its actually pretty clean underneath. Its getting stripped down until I decide its clean. I'll update with pics when I start taking stuff off. I'll maybe pull the back bumper off tomorrow and see what's up like one of you said, but again I doubt I'm gping to find anything major.
On another note, all these cars are supposed to have the build sheet under the back seat, I think that would be pretty cool if its still there
|08-15-2012 06:20 PM|
|Too Many Projects||
If sentiment is driving this forward, go for it but....it is NOT a solid car. What I've seen from the pics indicates MAJOR structural damage and more to come. It may be mechanically sound but that is a different topic altogether. I'm having a hard time believing it's been in FL it's whole life. I looks more like a MN car from the rust belt. Rust holes thru the hood, fenders and quarters is major damage and weakens the whole body. I would be looking for cut-off quarters from a donor and a better, original hood. The rear package tray is a donor only part too. I'm not trying to offend you but you seem to be minimizing a seriously rusted out car. I'm including a link to a '67 GTO basket case I've been working on for too long. Look at the pics and see how deep the rust issues get. If the surface is that bad, there's even more down deep. The best way to really know what you have is to strip it to a bare shell and have it media blasted. That will show you what is left of the original body and how much it will take to bring it back. By the time you're done replacing half the body, a clean donor shell from TX, AZ, NM, CA would be a MUCH better place to start from. I wish I had done that...
GTO pics. The best amateur photography lives on Webshots
|08-15-2012 06:10 PM|
How much you do really depends on you and what you want to do -- how much you want to put in it. There's nothing wrong with a little bondo. Many new cars have it right off the showroom. You think they pull a quarter panel that gets a few dings before leaving the factory or coming off the truck at the dealer? No, they repair it.
That car had a lot though, in some critical areas. The rear quarters DID have a drain hole from the factory. The people who "repaired" that one didn't put one in, probably covered the factory hole. The factory usually just leaves a small gap where the lower panels come together, there's a raised section from 1/2" to 1" long that has maybe a 1/16" gap, the rest mates together.
Like anything, there is a proper way to use body filler and there is a hack job. At least the guy who filled those places at the top of the quarter used a metal underlayment instead of stuffing with newspaper and slathering bondo over it. The metal underneath meant the bondo wasn't real thick. Since the hole was so big I'd call that a hack and not a proper repair. That small corner on the other side could be repaired with bondo, or better a product called "kitty hair", which is a fiberglass jell with fine chopped up strand of fiberglass in it. Some thing large needs metal welded back in though.
Another tip on the body panels -- if you have a friend that works at a body shop see what they can get the panels for. Sometimes they can get them, even antique panels, way cheaper than the restoration houses sell for. Even if they can't save you on the panel, they can usually save you a lot on shipping.
Check under the rockers and the vertical inside panel of the rockers. The rockers are the main support for the body. Often northern cars (and west/mid west -- winter salt country!!) with that much rust have the inner rockers rusted out. There are patch covers for the outer rockers that may have been used on yours. Looks like salt ate the top of the right rear rocker out. The tire slings it up. I thought those bodies had plastic wheel well liners, but that one may have been removed or got damaged.
You'll have to talk to the guys who make the patch panels/quarters and see just how much needs to be cut and where. It would be nice to get a factory service manual (body manual -- I think GM usually had a Body and Mechanical manual). That will show you exactly where to cut the panel and/or drill the spot welds out. The panel maker may have an illustration for that too -- check!
Definitely replace badly damaged panels that bolt off, like the front fenders. Small holes I'd weld patches in, but if more than a little rust underneath replace it! Even if you don't replace the front fenders PULL THEM OFF!! They may be hiding extensive rust. Before you put much money in that car check it ALL OVER for rust. Take "inventory" of how much needs to be repaired, and tally up parts costs. You might find that you can get another body cheaper, even if having it shipped from the south or dry states out west.
Technically it's illegal to "rebody" a car (use a rusted car for the serial number and some mechanicals, transfer to a rust-free/more repairable body). Practically it's done all the time. Federal law says a VIN can't be altered, once it's on a car it stays. The thing is it's not enforced unless someone complains. If you know you have clear title to the rusty car and you're sure the "donor" isn't stolen or otherwise illegally obtained, it can be done. The only time this might be a real problem (other than the obvious -- the donor is stolen) is if the car in question was a really rare car or rarely optioned. I mean like a rusted/trashed late 60s Mustang Shelby GT350 VIN/parts transferred to a run of the mill Mustang fastback. That's done more often than you think, but it's a real gray area. If you totaled a 66 GT350 early in the model year you could order a factory "body in white" (non-serialed body shell, usually in white paint for protection, hence "body in white") and legally transfer all the parts. Or a 67 shell (I think the 66 and 67 shells are practially the same...). Do you still have an "original" Gt350? It's a rebodied car, not the original body shell... so I call it a gray area. When you change the VIN over the car practically becomes the car the VIN was made for, assuming all the original parts (or suitable replacement parts) are used. But now we're back to technically it's illegal to "rebody" a car.... Your car, your decision. I'm doing this now -- but it's on an old Jeep J-10 truck. I have a good cab and frame from one with no title (I knew the original owner, I could probably do a lot of paperwork ad get a legal title, but...). I have a rusty one that I have a title to and will use a few parts from, but even the frame is so rusty it has flakes coming off, even the engine block does! I certainly don't trust it enough to put money in! So the VIN plate is coming off and going on the good cab.
Technically illegal, but nobody cares, and it's not a real collectible vehicle. No harm done.
|08-15-2012 04:36 PM|
|bigdog7373||I'm fixing this car. The car has a lot of sentimental value to me. I went through hoops to track it down simply because i knew it's a solid car. Besides the body stuff which coulsnt have been spotted unless i stripped the paint off. The car is solid. In my opinion there's no reason to ditch the car because of some body rust. I'll check it out thoroughly but i doubt i'm gonna find anything majorly wrong with it.|
|This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|