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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-18-2012 09:28 AM
prostcelica Thanks for all the replys guys much appreciated. I am ging to get the deck cut down so the pistons are around 5 thou in the holeand use the 38 thou head gaskets that are recomended with the heads I have. By doing this they will have to take 16 thou off one side and 32 thou off the other. Do you guys think I will also have to have some material taken off the intake so it will line up properly??
08-18-2012 04:34 AM
6426yy Before you take it to the machine shop, tear it apart and use one piston and rod assembly to measure cylinders 1,7,2,8. This will eliminate any differance in the rods and pistons of the other assemblies. I pull the rings and use a lil masking tape to keep the piston snug in the bore. I feel for you, my 400 is nice and square but -.032
08-18-2012 12:49 AM
theitalian No problem just trying to save you some stress. Everytime i have taken a short cut it has bit me in the ***. The last thing you need is a chunk of crap to plug up a lifter and wipe out your cam or score up your bearings. When i get a block back from the machine shop i spend a few hours cleaning and measuring. I had a block done last year and the machine shop said it was spotless ready to go. When i got it home the thing was full of sand from when they bead blasted and baked it. When i went back to tell them about it he said he's so confident in his work that he doesnt let stuff go like that, check everything yourself. Spend a little more time and money the first time cause doing thing twice sucks.
08-18-2012 12:06 AM
F-BIRD'88 Add nitrous and it won't matter and you'll never know the difference.
"Profession Shop" means you paid extra for a typical Krylon rebuild.

Just think now you only need to check VTP clearance on one side of the block.
08-17-2012 10:01 PM
prostcelica Ok, Thanks Italian, Ill check with the machine shop to see what they say.
08-17-2012 08:55 PM
theitalian All the junk that will get in the oil journals. In order to clean the block out properly I would remove them. You can buy a cam bearing tool from summit for 60 or 70 bucks, and a good set of cam bearings will run ya 50 bucks. They are not hard to install, just take your time.
08-17-2012 08:47 PM
prostcelica What is the issue with leaving the cam bearings in when having it decked ??
08-17-2012 08:32 PM
theitalian I might be i little worried about leaving the cam bearings in. Talk to the guy doing the machine work get his opinion. I had my block decked and line honed and it ran me 170 to deck it 160 to line hone it.
08-17-2012 06:11 PM
prostcelica K cool. will do. thanks
08-17-2012 05:38 PM
theitalian Yes you can re-use the bearings, just keep them in order. When you put it back together plastagauge it for a peice of mind.
08-17-2012 04:55 PM
prostcelica This will be my first time dissasembling a bottom end so I just had a few questions. Ive been doing some reading and it seems if I take everything apart and keep it all orginized and make sure it all goes back together the same way I should be good. I actually only have 1 question. Being that this motor has just been rebuilt can i re-use the carnk and rod bearings?? or are they no good to re-use after the crank and rods have been tourqed down??
08-16-2012 06:25 PM
prostcelica Thanks guys. Much appreciated. I only have $800 dollars invested in the Short block as I bought it from a freind of a freind. Aparently it was good to go Bored 30 over new flat tops, bearings and ARP rod bolts. I guess this is a classic case of you get what you pay for. I spoke to the machine shop today and he said my best bet is to right down all the deck heights for each bore, remove the internals and bring it to him. He said he will parallel deck it to get both sides close to the same. 185$ + tax. Im going to do it. I thought of using a steel shim on one side and a thicker mls on the other but it seems kind of hokey.
08-16-2012 02:39 PM
cdminter59
sbc deck clearance

Prostcelica, I don't have any idea of the money you have spent so far on your rebuild. I was in the same situation as you with my block but not quite as far off. I kept thinking of what's going to happen if I put it together like this. As was suggested you could use 2 different size head gaskets. One would have to be a steel shim gasket to = .053 and the other needs to be .032 thick to = .053 thickness. If the crank center-line is off how is that going to affect how long your engine last. Like I said I had the block decked, the block drilled for (3) new 4 bolt main caps and align bored and honed. I also had him hone my block again while he had it. Then had it dipped for cleaning after the machine work was done. The machine shop charged me $500 which I thought was a really good deal. I would call and check the price to deck it and align bore it for peace of mind.
08-16-2012 01:52 PM
Silver Surfer If you are racing then fix it. Otherwise slap it together and call it good.
08-16-2012 01:39 PM
oldbogie
Quote:
Originally Posted by prostcelica View Post
What do you guys think I should do?? Short block is already assembled. Should I run it or should I break it down and fix it???
If this isn't a professional race engine, just run it. The cost and frustration of fixing is just too much to mess with, all you really have is a compression difference one side to the other cause by the about .010 inch difference. If the crank is off center there's a small angulaty difference going on with the rods. None of this is show stopper. If it really drives you crazy use two different thickness head gaskets to even it up the compression some.

Bogie
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