I am almost done building my stroker Chevy 383 and I used aluminum edelbrock heads. D I need to use a certain type of coolant? What is best? Dexcool
green type
others?
Thanks,
Chuck
I am almost done building my stroker Chevy 383 and I used aluminum edelbrock heads. D I need to use a certain type of coolant? What is best? Dexcool
green type
others?
Thanks,
Chuck
Plain old green ethylene glycol coolant, mix 50/50 or 60/40 with de-ionized water, change it every 2 years. DO NOT use DexCool, it is absolute crap and will cause more headaches than you can imageing (as it did for GM, check out this site with many complaints of dexcool failures.
Good to know! I was hoping to use a long life coolant and I thought I heard that Dexcool was junk. I worked for Both Toyota and Dodge and they have what seems to be good long life coolants. I guess I will go green unless something long life will work for sure. I will research the other car companies coolants to see if they will work. The only reason I am still wanting something else is because I was never a big fan of the green coolant. Seemed to get nasty quick.
People always seem to say that, but never realize that it is meant to be changed every two years. Very seldom did it actually get done, hence the "green is no good" mentality. Serviced properly, the green coolant will keep the cooling system in far better condition than the long life stuff on the market. Use de-ionized or distilled water, proper mix, and flush every two years, and there will be absolutely no problems relating to the coolant. It is when the coolant becomes acidic that you have issues. It becomes an electrolyte, and with the dissimilar metals in a cooling system, a battery is born. Electrolysis begins, and parts erosion occurs. People in general need to learn that maintenance is always less expensive than repair!!
I just had to change the coolant in my Ford truck and decided to use the "required" extended life spec stuff which is Xerex G-05 (http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/zerex_g05.pdf). Take a look at that as well as the rest of the Valvoline antifreeze products - they have decent write up and MSDS on all of their line. Have to say even at NAPA, the net price was not cheap - ~$20/gallon for the concentrate and I needed four (actually 3-1/2) for 50-50
Recochem released a new "one size fits all, like pantyhose" All-Fleet ELC (Extended Life Coolant) this spring.
Can be used in everything from liquid-cooled snowmobiles to Peterbilt trucks.
Brochure attached as PDF
Yes, it's a little more expensive at a little under $20.00 / jug ... but it sure is nice not having to worry about what "color" (or "flavor") of antifreeze anymore.
It was getting ridiculous. I'm also attaching Recochem's "Coolant Selection Guide" (2-pages, with page 2 being of the most interest)
The old scuttle butt about Dexcool being junk is pure B/S. When it is used like any other coolant with distilled or de-ionized water and changed every two years there is zero problems with it. All of your long life coolants today are almost identical to DexCool.
In case anyone is till looking at this thread...search Google to find No-Rosion's response to Evans. They make some really good points. Apparently, Evans is 100% glycol and causes some significant changes to the way a cooling system works.
Evans is NOT 100% ethylene glycol!!!! I know, I have worked for them for 13 yrs. Evans has their original coolant which is called NPG and it is propylene glycol, no ethylene. It is used for racing where ethylene coolants are not allowed.
All of there other coolants are a blend of ethylene and propylene glycols with other proprietary additives. Our coolants do not get mixed with anything. All of our coolants eliminate corrosion and electrolysis and are totally compatible with any and all metals.
I wish some of these companies would get their facts straight.
Funny no one brought up this point that when you are using dissimilar metals you should be using a sacrificial anode to prevent corrosion of the aluminum parts.I am sure many of you have seen used intake manifolds with corroded water passages at swap meets.Save yourself some expense down the road and get this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-32060
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