|08-23-2012 07:46 AM|
|machine shop tom||
No need to re-torque the head bolts when using a steel shim gasket.
|08-23-2012 06:51 AM|
|Caprice Sleeper||Thanks for the help. I couldn't find the GMPP head bolts. Before I made the thread I was planning on using Fel pro (FEL-ES72856) Cylinder head bolt kit $23.95. Seems like they will work but I would like to get your input on them and the GMPP parts number if you have it. Also I don't want to run into trouble with my intake gaskets cracking because I milled my heads. I checked out the Fel-pro 1255 gaskets you told me about. Once again before the thread I was going to use Edelbrock (EDL-7235) intake gaskets $24.95. I think I will go with the Fel-pro's, they seem like a better gasket for my application. Thanks for the help.|
|08-22-2012 06:25 PM|
Us a felpro 1255 intake gasket for your vortec heads.
Do not use the factory intake bolts withe the ball on the end with this gasket.
Get your own new stainless bolts from the hardware store. Make sure the length is right
Put at least one steel washer under each manifold bolt. More if require, if the bolt is too long and bottoms out.
The outer 4 vortec manifold bolts need a dab of the black Permatex on the bolt threads.
Let the bead of Black permatex on the china walls of the block set up overnight after installing the intake manifold. Must be clean, dry and oil free for the Permatex to stick to the steel.
Do not over torque the intake bolts.
retighten by hand with a wrench after a few heat cycles.
DO not over torque.
|08-22-2012 06:20 PM|
|F-BIRD'88||The GMPP head bolts have a smaller size hex head and allow you to retorque the head bolts without removing the rocker arms.|
|08-22-2012 06:17 PM|
No . Install the head gasket clean and dry on a clean dry oil free block deck and head.
Clean the gasket block and head with laquer thinners to get the oil off.
Leave all the sealer crap in the tool box.
Retorque the head bolts afer a few heat cycles.
You can put a small amount of Black Permatex sealer on the threads of the head bolts and under the head of the bolt.
Use it on the exhaust rocker studs if you have screw in studs.
Use a small amount on the clean dry oil free block china walls and around the water port holes only on the intake gasket. Thats all.
If the head and block are reasonably flat the gasket will seal fine.
If the head is warped no amount of gasket sealer crap will make it better.
They either seal or they don't.
If you want to do something good chase the threads in the block with a tap and buy new GMPP cylinder head bolts. best $20 you can spend.
I have never had a shim gasket fail in 35+ years of using them on SBC's and BBC's
(even with nitrous)
|08-22-2012 06:01 PM|
Should I use a gasket sealer on a .015 shim head gasket?
The 229 V6 has spun a bearing so the 305 must be put into service ASAP. The 305 is a 90 model year with a stock roller cam and dished pistons. I want to install a set of 906 vortecs milled .030 (62cc chambers after the mill). I think the 305 had 8.5:1 compression with 58cc heads stock, so if my vortecs are 62cc and I use a .015 shim gasket (Fel-pro FEL-1094 4.100 in bore, compressed thickness .015 in.) I should be back at 8.5:1 which is good for a daily driver. Anyways my question is do I need to use a gasket sealer of some sort during assembly? I searched this question and it seems that it was last discussed about 10 years ago so I just wanted to get some current knowledge on the subject. Thanks everyone for the help it is much appreciated as always.