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Topic Review (Newest First)
09-19-2012 05:27 PM
LATECH Isnt that amazing. And all the parts store mechanics were spending ALL that money with there "diagnosis"
I see it all the time. Dudes car breaks, he asks the parts guy, his buddys his Dad his mom his girfriend. Puts on all the parts they suggests, trying to save a buck. Spending all the while a gazillion dollars and not fixing the problem. Then take it to a mechanic. Had one yesterday.
Dude brings car. Put on coil pack,Ignition module, plugs, wires, fuel filter, even CUTS OFF the catalytic converter. Couldnt get it to run on all 6.
Brought it in, located 2 cylinders not firing. Verified spark and injector pulse.Did compression test, pulled valve cover. Discovered that last 4 rockers in the engine werent moving. Winds up being a BROKEN CAM.
Then dude says he wants to take all the NEW parts back off the motor and return them to the parts store.
He should have ASKED a mechanic first.... Like you did.
09-18-2012 09:16 PM
Alaska_Man
Sorry for being late

Just wanted to say sorry to all that sent me help with my motor problems. Fixed the problem and got to doing other things and forgot to let everyone know it was fixed. Thanks to their help. It turned out to be my "temp sensor unit" that went bad. The thing that threw me was every time I put the engine "Analyzer" on the truck, it said the temp. sensor was to low. Well to me, that meant the engine temp. sending unit was bad. Well like you guys said, the engine temp. sending unit is different from the engine temp. sensor. I guessI am just to old to really understand what all the engine sensors have to do with the running of the engine. Anyway, just wanted to say thanks to all that tried to help.
09-01-2012 06:26 PM
edspring1
Coolant sensor

You have 2 coolant sensors. One for the guage, and the other for the ECM {computer}. Sounds to me like the one for your ECM has went bad. Your computer is thinking the engine is too cold even when it is at operation temp. Just about everything is controlled by your ECM at some point. Your ECM is giving you the code that the sensor is bad. Replace it !
09-01-2012 05:45 PM
ssmonty You didn't say what year it is, but you might try checking the fuel pressure cold, and hot. I've seen fuel pressure regulators that drop pressure after it gets hot.
Its been my experience that an ignition module is either good or bad, not intermitten.
FWIW
ssmonty
09-01-2012 02:31 PM
Alaska_Man
Update on "No Starting Chevy V-6"

Well guys, I think I got the title wrong on this one. Should have been "Dieing Chevy V-6 After It Gets Almost Warmed Up" What it's doing is starting right up when it's cold or cool. When I let it run awhile, it will load up (seems to me) and die when it is about 180 degrees. 195 is normal. Got an aneliser (sp) that reads "Trouble Codes." One time it said it had two codes. 1 #15, "Cooling Sinser To Low" and a #32 "EGR Failure." I disconnected the battery, to reset the everything on the truck computer and retested twice more and both times it just says #15 "Cooling Sinser To Low." Each time, I have to let it cool down to get it started again. Have been talking to a few friends and people at the parts houses and I got "MAP", "EGR Valve and Selenoid Module", "Cat. Converter" and the "ICM" (Ingnition Control Module" on the distributer, is bad. I don't want to just get a new one of each, although I will if needed, unless I have to. Anyone have any thoughts on this?
08-29-2012 09:40 PM
edspring1
Uh Oh !

Not too much has changed since those days you remember...LOL You need 4 things for all engines to run. Spark, Fuel, Air and Timing. After the van cools down see if it will start on its own {no starting fld}. If it does you may want to ck. your cat. converter. If it's defective it could be closing up when hot not letting the exhaust out, creating 'pressure' in the engine. If it still won't start pull a spark plug or 2 and see what they look like. Sometimes the plugs are forgotten about these days and are left in an engine way too long. The gap opens up on them, or they get carboned over and they can't fire as they should. I can tell you after 40 yrs. working on these things that if you have spark all the way threw the spark plug, and you shoot some starting fluid into the intake system and it reaches the combustion chamber it will run. <assumeing the valve timing is correct> It may sputter and surely cut off, but it will run. Too much gas usually makes black smoke, but I have seen the fuel pressure regulator go bad and injectors will then put way too much fuel into the combustion chambers, or the small vacuum line will suck fuel into the engine, via the intake. Causeing the engine to flood while running. I can't go back and read your intial statement but did you say your van has a throttle body or injectors ? If it has a TB, look at the TB while your cranking the engine. Make sure you have nothing more than a fine mist of fuel while cranking. Anything more and may have a bad TB unit. Hope this helps !!
If not write back and let me know what all you checked and how ! Sounds like it could be a simple repair. The CID, last tune up mileage, would be helpfull.
08-29-2012 09:14 PM
Alaska_Man
No Starting Chevy V-6

Have a 89 Chevy 1/2 ton 2-wheel drive, with 4-speed trans., that just quit running today. Back in my day, if it got gas and spark, it would run. Well, it has spark and I sprayed starting fluid into carb and got no fire. It has TBI. So I think the fluid was pulled into carb. It was running and just quit. As we were doing about 40 MPH we droped it into 4th and it started again. Went on down to the store and shut it off. Came back out and it wouldn't start. We wern't far from home , so I went and got another truck to tow it with. While towing my brother tried it in geer again and it started. I was following him home when it started to die again. I noticed a gray'esh smoke comming out the exhaust. It also smelled like gas, but we couldn't find any leaks any where. Exhaust pipes look very black and sootey. But, no fire. Has spark and sprayed strating fluid in carb, no fire. Anyone have any ideas on this?

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