|09-10-2012 08:55 AM|
c/k brake drum issue
So I finally got the rear shoes and cylinders replaced. I got replacement lines from an 83 and 87 truck for the rear hard lines. I had to use the craftsman bolt off set to remove 3 of the 4 bolts holding on the cylinders. The 4th rounded even using the bolt off set and I had to pound on a 9mm socket on the rounded 3/8 bolt head and it was able to catch and get the 4th bolt.
Thanks tbucket23 for the little that trick. It worked for the passenger side cylinder. On the drivers side I ended up cutting the line so i didn't use it.
I knocked off most of the rust off the backing plate and cleaned up the drums and painted the exterior with a rust arresting paint.
I did damage the nut joining the hard line to the soft line at the differential. I thing it might just work though.
I'm so looking forward to replacing the fronts lines as well and will go ahead and get some replacements since they look nice and rusted together as well. I'm just going to do the soft front lines if possible (insert laughing here).
What is the appropriate gift to offer the brake gods in prepartion for such things?
|09-04-2012 06:56 AM|
c/k brake issue
Thanks T-bucket23, that sounds like a plan to try.
I went to the junk yard and was able to get a couple of rear lines for each side from a couple early 80s c/k trucks that appear to be in pretty good shape. They broke free quite easily to add a little spite to the whole situation... murphy's law I guess.
Now I want to remove the primary soft black rubber line and replace it as well since it's got quite a few small cracks visible. The 7/16" nut on this one is in the same boat. The two soft lines at the front to each wheel look to be in the same shape and will be replaced in the near future hopefully. I'll start soaking those hard/soft line connections for a few days with something prior to trying to break them free. From the pic of the new rear soft line it looks to have a nut on the back of the fitting that can be use to help break the line free (fingers double crossed). If not that then a little heat will be used. Hopefully the liquid wrench soaking on that joint has done something. It wouldn't turn yesterday so I left it alone.
I need to stop looking for problems. They don't seem to be in short supply.
Intially I just wanted to bleed the system and couldn't break any of the bleeder screws loose.
|09-03-2012 08:34 AM|
Take the bolts out of the cylinder, spin the cylinder while holding the nut on the line with a vicegrip. Once you get it off you can gently heat the fitting on the line and it will break free. I have done this many times with great success. It does not take a lot of heat, a propane torch will work just fine if you have one. It is generally not the fitting stuck in the cylinder, it is the fitting stuck to the line.
As for the other part of your question, the shorter shoe always goes to the front. I have not seen an exception to this in 35 years. There are some cars that the shoes are all the same.
|09-02-2012 09:16 PM|
c/k brake issue
It just occurred to me to hit the junk yard (pull-a-part) and check some of the c/k trucks on the lot and see if I can pull another line and get myself something that might work and have the appropriate bends already.
|09-02-2012 09:01 PM|
c/k brake issue
I used a wrench just like the posted pic. I've goofed up like that before and used a standard open end wrench and paid the price on a nut on the fuel line into the fuel pump so I went and got a set of those wrenches. I've heard them called line wrenches, in addition to flare nut wrenches, since they will fit over the attached line of some sort.
I should mention the right rear cylinder has this milky fluid inside the ends of the cylinder. But it's all coming out once I can get the damm line removed.
Thanks GMC66 for reminding me about the line available at napa or other places. I also just remembered I have another 80s rear end in the back that happens to have the brake lines still attached and that line is probably exactly the same.
|09-02-2012 04:10 PM|
X whatever it is i use to do brakes for a living and it is the short shoe to the front and long to the rear like stated. and a good line wrench is alway's a must or at least a good idea when working with lines. If it's not to late anyway.IMHO.
|09-02-2012 02:47 PM|
You need to do a do-over.
I have worked at a NAPA store since 1992, and some of the best advice I can give you is to not ask a Partsman for Mechanic advice.
Partsmen SELL parts, mechanics INSTALL them.
The thing about using an exploded brake parts diagram as a reference is that you have to consider which side of the vehicle you are looking at. The picture above shows the LH (Driver's Side) ... and the RH (Passenger Side) will be a "mirror image". The short shoe will STILL go to the front.
BTW, when I say "mechanic" ... I mean "trained technician", not the lerp working in the lube bay making $10.00 /hr that *thinks* he knows how to do everything.
I also have an issue in regards to the "pre 1970" notion that you have been fed. Self-adjusting rear drum brakes have been around longer than that. My 1966 GMC had them for sure. I bought the truck from my wife's grandfather in 1982 with 32,000 miles on the clock. The brakes had never been touched ... still had the OE stickers on the drums.
Short shoes were at the front.
|09-01-2012 10:43 PM|
|09-01-2012 09:55 PM|
short one is in back with e brake /front drums 70&older short one in front.
per my local repair shop,mine were on backwards when i went to change them.
looked at the book .put the drums back on drove to napa they said the
book's wrong.?????????. i put small on back. have fun.
|09-01-2012 07:28 PM|
1.) Brake tube nut:
If it's not already too late, go out and get yourself a set of flare nut wrenches that are made for this purpose.
2.) Brake leading / trailing shoe:
Unless you are restoring this truck to a "numbers matching" level of original condition ... you can simply buy a $3.00 pre-assembled straight steel brake line with fittings at your local parts store. They are available in plain tubing or in spring armor wrapped varieties.
I prefer the spring ones as they not only protect the tube from abrasion and rocks ... they also help to support the tube while you bend it to prevent kinking. That is sill no substitute for a proper tubing bender if you need to make sharp bends ... but it does help.
|09-01-2012 06:30 PM|
C/K drum brake issue
So i got some new brake shoes and pulled off all the stuff to change out the wheel cylinders on my '82 c-10 and I have two issues.
1. The brake line nut to the back of the wheel cylinder is on pretty good. I put a 3/8" line wrench on it after some penetrating oil. All i did was damage the nut slightly. Any suggestions on getting it loose would be welcomed. I've found some new rear lines at LMC truck if I need to replace them.
2. There are two different sized pads on the shoes. The ones that were on the truck had the smaller on the rear side (the shoe attached to the parking brake cable) and the larger thicker one on the front side. My manual shows a pic that is the opposite of this. Which one is right? I'm guessing the Chilton's manual is correct and that someone previously had them on backwards.
(they are the 11"x2" shoes)
I just put the old stuff back together till I can get this stuff straight.