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Topic Review (Newest First)
09-14-2012 09:40 AM
spinn Detonation detection, what would you do? That is a great idea and a concern of mine. You think a knock sensor placed in the block drain plug, or near the intake track, would be sensative spot. It could be wired to a LED in the cabin on a voltage sensing circuit.

The box cannot be mounted underneath ? It doesnt get a shower of water when I pop the hood, but a few drops. So it is better the other way? Originally it was going to be placed in cabin. underneath the dashboard behind the glovebox and heat vent duct. Unfortuneately it makes a buzzing at operation and that was crossed off as a location. I could fashion a lexan cover from my nephews old rc car body. Might look strange.

Strange- These water injection / HHO systems I glanced. A water bottle with heet and a sponge to the vacuum port, is going to work?
09-14-2012 08:25 AM
F-BIRD'88 I'd hate to see you smoke this cool little blown 305 over a bunch of nothing.
(unreliable boost level on pump gas)
09-14-2012 08:19 AM
F-BIRD'88 A trip down the drag strip will tell the tale of how much HP you are making now.
Based on the 1/4 mile MPH and vehicle weight+driver.

i would get myself a way of listening-detecting for detonation under boost.
Further boost testing should be done with high octane gas. Then water methanol injection.
The fuel curve and timing curve will be uber critical as well as the fuel quality (octane).

There are many good water meth injections systems on the market now.
a google search will show you.
Personally if you are making 9+PSI I would stay right there.
Consider adding the water meth inj now at 9PSI to allow needing less timng retard under boost
It will make more power.
Further gains will not be that much more power per #of boost.

Mother nature takes care of those that get greedy with boost on pump gas.
The Darwin effect.

Why not get some 110+ unleaded race gas and try the 12# pulley, then get that out of your system and put it back to
a workable, reliable 9psi with waterinjection and boost retard as required.

The cam can be improved for more power at 9psi too.
09-13-2012 11:29 PM
V305 That supercharger looks nice. The MSD Box its to close to the engine, but if temp its ok you can leave it there. MSD recommends NOT to install the box facing down because that way moisture will not come out (experience). That mounting plate looks cool btw.
09-13-2012 10:53 PM
spinn When I checked the mounting bracket with a temp gun, it was the same as the inner fender. It had to be flipped upside- down because if you open the hood after raining, it drips down.
09-13-2012 10:10 PM
spinn Any water injection system you want recommend? Your ideas about increasing boost were on target. If it is not too much , I will check it out.

My power estimates are just guesses. It is moving forward pretty good.

Different combos are not a waste really. This is just a short cut. Is there any down side? If it maintains its reliability and driveability what is going to go wrong? Rings? It has about 3,000+ miles, driven after the blower. So far , so good.
09-13-2012 06:53 PM
F-BIRD'88 Yup supercharging is hard to beat on the street.


You will come to the limit of retarding the timing-adding boost on pump gas. To avoid knock with more boost.
.

When it knocks , when at high boost, that knock is much more severe. You don't get as second chance.
It comes unglued real quick, when you exceed the laws of physics.
You going to find the limits of 91 octane gas real soon.

Mounting the spark box that close to the engine is not good. (heat)

The power gain by adding more boost/pulley drive ratio is not linear.
Any gains per # of boost from this point will be much smaller. Reliability goes way down.
Detonation will cut apart a expensive engine just as fast as a cheap engine.

Time to get water meth injection.
09-13-2012 02:39 PM
spinn Look what came in the mail this morning. My BS 3" pulley for the e force. $39.99 free shipping.

E force pullies at 6000rpm make an amount of boost based on driven/snout diameter. Estimated at 2 psi less for 5200rpm. When used with the stock drive/crank pulley.

- 3.25" = 7.5~9.5psi

- 3.00" = 9~11psi

- 2.75" = 11~13psi

This was so easy to , pull, and press. The results are immediate. It blows my mind. Why did I waste all that time building small block combos. This smokes any normal build, and have no detonation using the MSD BTR. It actually works and retards dialed to 26 total at 5200rpm. 91 octane and 9+ psi, the power is coming on harder than I ever thought a 305 could put out. The performer cam with a LSA of 112 is perfect, and works with the 906 1.94/1.50 60cc vortec heads like a charm. No plans to rev it higher and change cams.The heavy 85 C10 feels like a toy with the Dynamic built 3000 stall and 3.73 gears.

Every 2.5 psi is supposed to be 40-50 hp. So if My performer cam vortec 305 made 250hp NA, and e forced at 5psi made 350hp. Now it is making an estimated 450hp! Never has my 350s or 440s been this streetable at anything close to that power level.

Thanks Edelbrock, I am $2000 happy. This 305 hauls. I can twist the trucks 85 mph speedometer completely around in less than 10 seconds .

Should I try the 2.75" pulley? $40 bucks for another 50 hp. The OE block is good for 450hp or so.
09-10-2012 10:08 PM
spinn
E force pulleys for more

I heard magnuson makes press on pullies for the carburetor Edelbrock E force superchargers. After a search or two my efforts are fruitless. They seem to be for other systems. Would pulling the driven off damage the shaft? Does anybody make a 4 bolt -on style conversion like the other e force kits?

My 305 is at 5+ psi at 5200 rpm. Looking for a 3.35" to get about 8 psi by that rpm. Then it can take advantage of the MSD BTB retard. The boost ramps up with rpm mildly and the sneeze valve is good protection not on the other roots blowers. It is silent too which is likeable.

Very impressive for a 305 with a performer cam. Most impressive.

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