|09-14-2012 04:21 PM|
|09-14-2012 02:51 PM|
|09-14-2012 07:37 AM|
I had the same problem,what I did is I wrapped my headers,mainly to get rid of under hood heat and I chunked the overly large Chevy starter an replaced it with a 4.3 v6 starter.No more starting problems.I shaved off 9 1/2 lbs. with the starter change.My battery is in the trunk,run your ground wire to a tail shaft housing bolt if your using an auto trans.
And the more bigger the wire the more gooder.....
|09-14-2012 12:04 AM|
|09-13-2012 09:29 PM|
Look at your documentation. it could be in the plug hole or one of the unoccupied posts or it may ground to the case.
|09-13-2012 07:17 PM|
|09-13-2012 04:02 PM|
ALL these things are very important. Once you have corrected ALL these areas that effect starter motor performance you can also install a simple ignition power interupt toggle or pushbutton switch on the dash to allow you to disable the spark momentarily for hot starting. This removes the cranking load on the starter allowing you to crank over and purge the intake manifold of over heated over rich air fuel that will not burn.
This is why a hot motor needs to crank for a longer time to start.
Once a fresh air fuel mix is drawn to the intake manifold the motor will start instantly.
Kick it over 1- 2- 3 count and throw the switch. pretty simple.
Make sure the GM OEM rear starter motor bracket brace is installed. The two bolts alone are not enough to support the GM starter motor.
This is not a replacement for correcting the other issues grounding, heat shield etc.
|09-13-2012 03:53 PM|
|09-13-2012 03:45 PM|
|09-13-2012 02:29 PM|
|Choctaw Bob||And don't forget when you clean the battery terminals, check the cables inside the insulation a few inches from the terminals. Corrosion has a way of sneaking up the cables and causing damage you can't see.|
|09-13-2012 02:21 PM|
|09-13-2012 01:38 PM|
|lg1969||Also check if battery ground is bolted solid to the engine block and there is no corrosion around the lug of the ground cable and battery terminal and the cable itself. Like oldchevy1956 wrote, you need a "good solid ground" connection. Make sure the battery does not have a dead cell.|
|09-13-2012 01:14 PM|
|oldchevy1956||I definitely agree that the initial solution could be a heat issue and there are a few solutions already listed above, but I also have seen ground issues cause this too. Getting a good solid ground to the block is very important, as already mentioned, for good starter activity when hot, and I have even gone as far as running a 4 gauge or 6 gauge gound wire directly to the starter.|
|09-13-2012 12:33 PM|
A starter kit will not improve the cranking when it's hot. It only good when the soleniod will not engauge because of a hot engine heating the soleniod.
You need a super high torque mini starter to make it crank faster. Also check the battery charge volt it should read 14 to 14.5 volts when running.
|09-13-2012 12:24 PM|
Since I've did many performance builds with headers and high compression and never had any starter issues says to me the chevy starter has no issues with doing the job, however it's important it be did right. Before you do anything first off, and this is vital, Improve the grounds. If you've got what I've seen on the majority which is ground cable going to alternator bracket that ain't gonna cut it. Run the ground directly to the block. Make sure where you connect it on the block is sanded down to it makes a excellant contact. Next run another ground from the block to the frame and again, make sure it's getting a good connection. If there are factory ground straps hanging around unused from the firewall reconnect them.
Next, get the vehicle on a set of ramps and torque the starter bolts to 35 ft lbs.
This is what I've did on each build I've did and none give me any problems. What made me start doing it this way? Before I did it my car ate a total of Eight starters and I'd decided enough is enough.
When you improve the grounds you'll notice everything in the electrical system will work better.
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