|09-25-2012 06:10 AM|
I usually drill a 1/8" hole through the hinge before removing them.
When I reinstall I insert a 1/8" drill bit or rod and it gets me back
to original alignment pretty fast.
|09-24-2012 11:33 PM|
|09-24-2012 11:12 PM|
|tech69||good idea, and reminds me of drilling holes in the hinges and using punches to re-align it up. Sort of the same concept. You can also lay it in it's hole and latch it shut and your holes will be lined up or close enough to get bolts in. I do that once in a while, mainly on pillar jobs where I have to pull where the door mounts and then you want to mock it up to see how it fits around your a-pillar/rocker/etc after you have pulled. With the car on the rack, a gutted door that's light, and no one to help, latching it shut works pretty good.|
|09-24-2012 11:10 PM|
Good idea, I'm thinking then remove one of them on each hinge and put a bolt to tighten as you adjust the door then remove the other studs, very good idea.
|09-24-2012 10:50 PM|
A trick I do for hanging doors
Thought I'd just post a trick I do when I'm hanging the doors on my 67 Mustang. Anybody familiar with these know the threaded metal plate behind the door jamb isn't always attached and can fall down.
I cut the head off some 5/16-18 bolts and screw them in loosely. They serve three functions:
1. Serve as guides for setting the hinges on
2. Prevent the metal plate from falling
3. Give you leverage to move the plate around to line it up with the bolt.
By the way, these same bolts will also work great for when you need to set an intake manifold on top of the engine. Screw these in to the top of the block at each corner and use them as a guide. Will set the intake down perfectly straight.