|10-07-2012 01:37 PM|
Use the money you would have wasted on 5 speed transmissions , overdrive etc etc to build this simple 355 shortblock w a 177 blower and keep the M-21 and 3.42's Get a drive shaft safety loop, some Cal-Tracs and some sticky tires. Somebody bought those tires.
Store the 406 short block away for a rainy day.
|10-07-2012 01:14 PM|
You can do this on a higher compression 355 say with flat top pistons and your 72cc aluminum heads if you add a water/methanol injection system to the combo. 10 to 12psi boot 2.33:1 drive ratio 177 blower.
Get a whole box of them diapers. You and your friends will need them.
|10-07-2012 12:35 PM|
For the same amount of real money spent on redoing the 406 (or less) you can put the N/A 406 short block asside and build a simple low cost 355 short block with low compression. (You want 7.5:1)
Now you can add either the 144 or 177 blower + a solid flat tappet or roller cam that is
blower friendly + your 750HP to the 355 and go like hell.
You'd really really like the 177 blower on a 7.5:1 355cid. w 10+-12 psi boost. (2.33:1 drive ratio)
You will need diapers.
The low compression 355 is dirt simple to build and you will have the intact 406 short block as a spare ir for another use.
Use cam use a of the shelf solid flat tappet "blower" cam in it to save money of you want.
EG: a Crane F280-2 280-288 244-250 112lsa .518-.536 w 1.5's or .552"in .536"ex w a 1.6 1.5 split.
Or use a very good off the shelf crane street roller
EG: crane #118521 or 118531
A lunati voodoo street roller on a 112-113LSA 114LSA would be another good example
This 355-177 combo in your Camaro will eat your buds 142 blower car for lunch.
You can build this simple 355 yourself, in your garage.
In truth the off the shelf 110LSA Xe and voodoo solid street rollers work fine in 355 blower motors too.
But a 112-114 LSA version is only a phone call away.
The blown 355 is going to want to rev. Don't even waste your time with a Hyd cam for this.
|10-07-2012 03:30 AM|
To get the compression ratio right on your 406 with a blower
you will need to use a -30cc piston and open up the combustion chambers on your heads to 80cc volume.
If you really want a 144 blower use it on a simple low compression 355 short block with off the shelf forged -22cc dished 350 pistons and your full ported 72cc RHS heads (opened up a bit to 75cc) and a suitable solid street roller cam. It will go like hell.
2.33:1 blower drive ratio. 7" bottom 3" top pulley.
These 144 blowers become inefficient (heat the air) and tend to eat belts when spun faster than this. Require methanol fuel or water methanol injection to cool the charge air when spun faster. Heated expanded air is less dense, tends to detonate and reduces power and reliability unless intercooled or methanol is used.
|10-07-2012 02:25 AM|
Your jetting is a bit too lean. Jetting on the chassis dyno often is not the same as the jetting required when the car is moving at 100+MPH. (especially now that the fall air is cool and dense) Jet up to 72 pri and 84 sec for the track. Then come down a bit leaner towards 70 pri and 80sec jetting while watching the track 1/4 mile MPH from times lips. Max MPH indicate best power jetting.
70 to 73 pri and 80 to 85sec jetting is just right 99% of the time on a 750 HP carb on a N/A motor.
|10-07-2012 01:55 AM|
Get the larger 177 blower. The lil 144 is too small for a 400sbc. the motor wil run as fast or faster without the 144 blower. Get a solid street roller cam 244 to 248@.050 110 to 112LSA EG Comp XR286R-10 or XR280r-10
The off the shelf 110LSA cam actually works just fine. Its just right for a blower on a 406.
A special wide LSA is not needed. The off the shelf 110LSA street roller cam is a "blower cam" when used on a 406 SBC.
Your 406 with a blower will out run over run a hyd roller cam. You don't want that.
Sell your complete hyd roller cam and kit and get the complete "K kit" mechanical cam and kit
EG K12-772-8. You will only have to spend the money once. and will have the right combo the first time.
Your carb can easily be modified so the power valve is boost referenced . Its a simple drilling operation on the center body of the carb, press in a vacuum fitting tube in the new hole you drilled in the side of the carb body and plug one hole. Its that simple.
The new vacuum fitting connects to the intake manifold to read pressure when the blower makes boost.
Install a simple one way mini vacuum check valve in line so the boost does not act directly on the carbs power valve diaphram under boost.
Same on any accessories that depend on manifold vacuum to operate. Protect with a simple inline check valve.
jetting For the blower using a 750 HP carb
Jet it up to a 75 pri and 88sec jet to start. That will be very close. Get some rear jet extensions
Get an electric fuel pump.
You really should have a 850-950cfm carb for a 177 on a 400cid motor. But the 750HP wil get it done.
Again the small 144 is a waste of time on a 400. Works great on 283's 305's 327's and 350's.
It does not move enough air for a 400cid motor. (without excessive blower drive ratio) Most of any boost created will be from heat from excessive blower drive ratio speed. Heated charge air (excessive blower speed) is bad. The 177 blower kit is the same price.
Your 3.42 gears and the 4 speed are just right.
The 177 blower seals as efficient or more efficient . don't need teflon stripes. Closer. rotor to case clearance. Stiffer case.
Its a much better blower. You want low compression 8:1 or less and a 2.10 to 2.33 blower drive ratio and good 94 octane gas for max street performance with this blower on a 406. A boost retard timeing box is nice too. Be prepared to go fast.
|10-03-2012 12:40 PM|
406 with a177
I have a a melling high volume biilet gear oil pump 3/4 inlet 7 quart moroso pan baffled and windage tray, high flow water pump from flowcooler 3 core rad with steel fan and a corvette clutch fan ,3/4 hub vs 5/8,180 thermostat,during the hottest of summer it reached 190 in traffic,other than that it stays between175-183 constant,cam change and and a dished piston forged,I have RHS aluminum 72cc heads motor is afull hydraulic roller already.
The 177 though does not have teflon coated rotors where as the 144 does ,does that mean it will not seal as efficiently as the smaller one given any one rpm setting,I realize for every rpm it will draw more air than the 144,jetting wise and power valve any recommendations,it's a got a M-21,3:42 rear gear,weight is 4000lb'scam will be 233/241@50 ,530 int/545ex 114 lsa,110 ,lca ,I now have a holley ultra hp 750 cfm with electric choke but I wiil need to change the power valve to a boost referenced one as well as the accelerator pumps to 50cc from 30cc which it has now as well as the jets i'm running 68 primary and 74 secodary the car runs great and the A/f ratio is 13.5-13.9 at cruise and 12.1 under load full throttle accordiding to the dynojet when I had it dynoed in may,
Again if any one can steer me in the right direction with the 177 weiand as to P/V and jetting that would be greatly appreciated.Thank you everyone.
|10-02-2012 12:34 PM|
|AutoGear||I'd go with the 177. You'll be really pushing that 144, which means it'll wear faster, it'll run hotter and if at some point you end up upgrading your 406 (say you get a swingin deal on a set of heads, or one of your heads gets a crack in it), you are ahead of the game. Cooler boost is better boost. Speaking of cooler, make sure you're running a good radiator, fan, trans cooler - if applicable, and your oiling system are all up to snuff.|
|09-30-2012 04:23 PM|
My truck has a 305 with E force supercharger. The pulley was switched to a 3" and my gauge is reading 10 psi at 5200rpm. It is a plain 305 with performer cam and Vortec 906 heads milled to make 9:1 compression. Summit headers and 3.73 and 3000 stall. It moves . The 85 mph speedometer can whip around in 10 seconds. This is my daily driver and installed the blower in july. This winter I will see how it reacts to the temp change. So far the mileage is the same as before, which is surprising for the acceleration increase.
Forced induction is, the way. Cam and displacement add up, but once you can alter the boost you enter some real fun. Cam is just moving the curve around. Power is limited by the fuel type and internal durability.
Check your driveline. Make sure you have good U joints, a trans at least upgraded TH350 quality with shift kit, and a 8.5 rear.
Pursue this dream. It is fun fun fun.
|09-28-2012 06:51 PM|
400 with a 144
Thats exactly what I,m looking for reliability with a grin. I'm not out to race everything on wheels it's for me to enjoy whenever and wherever.
|09-28-2012 04:55 PM|
|67-4-fun||Oh I understand completely, good friend of mine who races locally every weekend has a 73 firebird with a blown 383, he runs a 142 Altho small but has a ton of fun with it.. He runs a real conservitive setup. 4lbs boost, 32 totall timing. He runs consistent 7.50 in a 1/8 mile and drives it to the track and back home every weekend.. He has dart pro1 heads, scat bottom end|
|09-28-2012 01:23 PM|
400with a 144
you are right about the boost with a different pulley configuration Weiand told me I could get 10 lbs but that would stress that little huffer. there direction also leaned toward a 177 i dont mind the 671either but as many of us do , I have a budget to work with, I could squeeze by with a 177 but the 671 set up is out of my range for now,so i will either sit tight and enjoy my current set up and save my pennies for a 177 or 671 as long as I dont have to cut corners,and set it up properly,has anyone with a 400 sbc tried ether configuration,if so any feedback would be greatly appreciated,Thank you again everyone for your input.
|09-27-2012 01:05 PM|
|67-4-fun||the 144 may max out at 7lbs i believe, correct me if im wrong, you maybe better off with a 177 or just go with the 671 out the hood...|
|09-26-2012 11:00 PM|
8-10lbs i'm hoping if all goes well, can i get more out of a 144 this will be my first time,theres a first time for everything.
|09-26-2012 08:33 PM|
|vinniekq2||sounds like all your ducks are in a row.looking for north of 675 hp? how much boost will you run|
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