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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-17-2014 09:11 AM
OGTex I think im gonna try a secondary spring on the brake pedal. Ill have to shop around town for a good one that will fit right. Pirate Jacks (MBM) has yet to reply/give any advice. This weekend ill try a combination of adjusting the pin between the booster and master (again), bleed the system (again) just to make sure and try adding a secondary spring on the pedal. I cant adjust my brake light switch anymore because its already adjusted all the way out towards the pedal. The seller on ebay where I bought my kit says that the problem is either the booster or the pin adjustment between the booster and master. I don't see how but ill try anyway.
07-16-2014 06:06 PM
2 car guy
Aftermarket brakes

The problem when buying a brake kit is, number 1, Joe Blow (aka) the brake expert, designed it. Who is he and what's his qualifications. Number 2,where are parts from? It took me about 15 minutes once to find out the booster in a kit was made in Italy. When I asked the company name, dead silence. If I need a replacement who do I go through? The company who made the booster was the answer. (Thanks a lot). A friend was having the same problem as you. I told him I got my system from a Astro van my brother in law had. Works great with factory parts on the shelf. He said he would never put junkyard parts on a street rod. I said me neither, I just replaced every part with new, cost $180. He didn't talk to me for a month. Good luck with your brakes, just be safe in fixing then.
07-15-2014 11:22 AM
OGTex Thanks for the info jclars, and im getting between 15 and 20 on my vacuum. Sunday I moved my vacuum line from the carb to the intake but nothing changed. I can pull my car out of the garage, reverse & forward a few times and everything is fine. Go around the block and when I get back the brake lights are on and the pedal is not returning all the way only missing by about a 1/4 inch. Before I start the engine up I can get under the dash and work the pedal with my hand and the pedal returns excellent and has a good springy feel to it. Im convinced its nothing in the pedal or pedal spring. My 62 Impala has a stock spring on the pedal and its working fine without the booster rod connected to it. And, yes i did drill a new hole in the pedal and have already adjusted the brake light switch. Another thing, sometimes after about 10 seconds the pedal will finish returning but most of the time it wont. The kit i installed was a front disk conversion kit from ebay. New master, booster, front calipers, proportioning valve and brake lines. Earlier i messaged MBM (pirate jacks) and explained everything to them. Im waiting on a response. If they say its the booster and have an explanation of what im experiencing then ill go with a new MBM booster.
07-15-2014 11:17 AM
jclars Not sure whose system the question is referring to, but I get a strong 20" at idle. However, I am running a T-bird super coupe 3.8L V6 in my truck with a super charger, so I was warned that the performance would be hindered, and maybe that is why I need the additional return spring. But they are working great now.
07-15-2014 10:09 AM
buchsam12
Booster

How many inches of vacuum are you pulling ???
07-14-2014 09:46 PM
jclars Read this post with interest, and then.....

Nothing. Like a good book, and suddenly the lights go out. Or a movie and then "join us next week for the finale."

Anyway, I have a CCP booster 4 disc MC on my 56 F100 and it took a lot of tweaking to dial it in. It used the original pedal which is cast steel and very heavy. They recommended adding a return spring. It worked. But not totally. I had to adjust the length of the push rod 4 times, first over shooting and then under shooting, but finally, 1/6 turn on the adjusting nut (yes, ONE FLAT) made all the difference.

If the brake lights are staying on the brakes are dragging. Mine did the same. I carried an infrared temperature sensor, and my brakes got over 500*F. I finally hooked up the brake pressure light that was on the MC and it helped me see what was going on. If I pumped the pedal a couple of times, it would go out, telling me the proportioning valve wasnt quite centering. That 1/6 turn put it dead center and the pressure build-up went away.

Hope this helps, but you need to post your vehicle info and brake configuration for helping mine the best information quickly.

Good Luck!

John L
07-14-2014 11:11 AM
OGTex Did you ever get this problem figured out? Im having the same problem with my front disk conversion. Brakes seem fine when I test drive but the pedal falls short when returning, leaving my brake lights on. Ive tried to trouble shoot the problem but no luck so far. Im at the point where im ready to try another booster. don't know what else to do.
04-29-2013 10:00 AM
Rod Rocket I hope by now, your brake problem is resolved. Try going to MBM website, it may help you to trouble-shoot problem. They are very helpful on the phone...1-800-231-4125, talk to sales. Good luck!
09-30-2012 08:30 AM
boothboy Install a second return spring. With the engine running depress the brake petal and release. If petal returns fully try a few more times. If that fixes the problem that's good. If not and the petal dose'nt return without touching the petal shut the engine down and have someone pull the check valve from the booster. If the petal returns to the proper position you've got a bad booster, if not you've got a possible restriction in the brake system. It might be the fluid is not returning compleatly to the master cvlinder. Something to try.
BB
09-30-2012 06:53 AM
vetteman
Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
Yes, I believe it's a prob w/the booster. The valve I mentioned has a seat that has to hold vacuum, even a broken/weak internal valve spring has the potential to be the problem, but the booster would need to come apart to confirm this- something that's outside the ability of most guys, besides the poit that you shouldn't need to fix a problem not of your making.

Given the info you've provided and the checks you've made, if it's not the booster, I'm at a loss.

It shouldn't cause the problem, but have you checked the vacuum check valve between the engine and the booster?
Yeah, I checked the valve. All is good.
If no useful help from CPP, I guess I will have to take a gamble and try a different booster from another source. If all else fails, hydroboost it.
09-30-2012 05:12 AM
cobalt327
Quote:
Originally Posted by vetteman View Post
Do you feel it's a booster problem when,as I mentioned, that the pedal fully returns when driving the vehicle with vac line unhooked from booster?
Yes, I believe it's a prob w/the booster. The valve I mentioned has a seat that has to hold vacuum, even a broken/weak internal valve spring has the potential to be the problem, but the booster would need to come apart to confirm this- something that's outside the ability of most guys, besides the poit that you shouldn't need to fix a problem not of your making.

Given the info you've provided and the checks you've made, if it's not the booster, I'm at a loss.

It shouldn't cause the problem, but have you checked the vacuum check valve between the engine and the booster?
09-29-2012 06:03 PM
vetteman
Quote:
Originally Posted by boothboy View Post
Did you ever check the petal to booster length? Just for grins shorten it a little bit and see what happens.
Yes.

It's adjustable, and shortening/lengthening it doesn't help at all.
09-29-2012 09:21 AM
boothboy Did you ever check the petal to booster length? Just for grins shorten it a little bit and see what happens.
09-29-2012 04:17 AM
vetteman
Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post


Too bad it can't be something easy...
Do you feel it's a booster problem when,as I mentioned, that the pedal fully returns when driving the vehicle with vac line unhooked from booster?
09-28-2012 06:40 PM
cobalt327
Quote:
Originally Posted by vetteman View Post
Yup. Pedal has free play,when it's fully returned. Double and triple checked booster to M/C bore pushrod clearance, with a gauge. 1/6"-1/32" clearance.


Too bad it can't be something easy...
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