|10-06-2012 06:28 PM|
|mr4speed||I will agree with tech69 as I also do not use the heavy cut compound on any color especially black. Your typical high grade compounds will generally get rid of 2000 grit scratches without the need for a heavy cut. Still not sure if your using base clear or SS. Regardless of that or what grit sand scratches your trying to get rid of, when you are finished with the compounding you should have a super glossy high depth finish with no haze at all whether your using wool or foam. Because when you move on to the polish stage that will not remove any haze or dullness in the finish. It must be done in the compounding stage.|
|10-05-2012 09:44 AM|
|tech69||your heavy duty supercut compound should be getting it out quickly. Maybe it sat for too long. I do not use a super aggressive compound on black. I first clean my wool pad completely with water, then run it on fast using a spur, then get it moist by rubbing in compound. Then I buff. It usually takes me 6-10 slow passes in one area before I go to the next area. I like to buff moving slowly. No need to be all over the place like a hack cause then you'll miss spots. I'm done when the surface looks like it has already been polished. You can also get to the point of polish and stop and do something else for a few weeks in case it wants to shrink up more on you. In any case, don't judge it til all the afro sheen is off the car and you have a true look on whether it's ready for polish. Then once I know it looks ready for polish I compound it again with a foam pad. Last I polish.|
|10-03-2012 10:25 PM|
|paint dude||Try using the wool to just rid of your sand scratches, and use a spur to clean pad often, Then I would switch to a foam pad, they make different ones so you will need to decide, Wash car from all the previous compound before you use the foam and the next polish, Usually around 1000-1200 rpm, work a panel at a time and also clean that pad often also, a toothbrush type brush works great, Polish to a high gloss watching your product and the surface. Good luck.|
|10-03-2012 06:45 PM|
I typically use a yellow foam pad with my cutting compound at a slow speed in lieu of the wool pad since it is much more controllable, especially if you don't do this type of work every day. Once I am satisfied the very fine scratch removal, I switch to the gray pad with the finishing glaze.
If you want to eliminate some of the sanding and stay with the wool pad, it is very important to keep it clean. I am not a professional at this, just have had a lot of experience with black single stage. I hope that this is helpful. I imagine that the pros will offer more info.
|10-03-2012 06:23 PM|
cutting compound black haze
Im having some slight hazing on my fresh black paint. How do I know when im done with my heavy cutting compound and ready to switch to finish cut?
As I went along I started in the rear passenger side and worked all the way around the back, as I got to the other side my wool pad was heavily "filled/soaked" with compound and there was a night and day difference from each side of the vehicle. The passenger side turned out pretty good with some slight hazing. I re buffed the driver side but still have some haze, Im using Wizards Turbo Cut and Finish cut for compounds. Any tips?? Im in constant fear of burning through so maybe im moving to fast???