|10-04-2012 08:12 AM|
Correct. The remaining wall stabilizes the repair sleeve. I usually use a polymer sealer on the repair sleeve that bonds to the old remaining wall and seals the top and bottom of the repair. No failures.
As mentioned by mr. P body. I also have some repaired BBC engines out there, that had to have Darton thick wall sleeves. One a Dart block that had massive damage. No cylinder wall left and partial cam tunnel damage. Also a roundy round Dart small block with two adjascent cylinders completely gone. Still running hard.
|10-04-2012 07:45 AM|
|against all odds||So you are saying, in this case, i do not have to machine away the whole wall?|
|10-04-2012 07:33 AM|
The common "heavy wall" (5/32", as stated) is the correct repair when the wall is collapsed like this. As long as the cracks "end" before the very top or bottom, it will be completely secure (proper installation "assumerd").
We have a 427 Chev "out there" with 1/2 of the original cylinder GONE, and a heavy-wall sleeve in it. After 5 years of racing (8,200 shifts), it's still just fine.
|10-04-2012 07:23 AM|
That is not a true wet sleeve repair. That block can be repaired with a common 1/8" or 5/32" repair sleeve. The remainder of the old cylinder will stabilize the repair sleeve.
A somewhat common sleeve job. Tho not reccommended for an extreme horsepower engine ( supercharged, nitrous etc). It would be fine for the average street/strip hi perf engine. I have several left hand turn engines out there with sleeved blocks to repair that kind of failure.
It is like this.. Repair the block that you already have many $$$$$ into. Or pay for all the special work on a new core. Or possibly a numbers matching un replaceable block. I have a customers 455 Pontiac block that is presently getting two sleeves for similar repair.
And by the way. Those common 350 blocks are getting rare and expensive around here and this area is where the vast majority of them were originally produced.
|10-04-2012 05:05 AM|
|bondo||Ayuh,... SBC blocks are a dime a dozen, 'n Not worth the repair, as a replacement will be cheaper...|
|10-03-2012 10:01 PM|
|against all odds||
So, here is what we are dealing with:
If the whole cylinder wall has to be machined away, then the only points of rigidity for the sleeve not to move around would be at the deck. As i said earlier, this block would only be used for transportation. Smokey said that wet sleeving a small block chevy is not a good idea but he may have meant for racing.
|10-03-2012 09:46 PM|
I have installed "wet" sleeves as repair in SBC and other engines when a cylinder wall is completely destroyed. Never had a return or problem.
Procedure is a bit different, a seat has to be cut for the sleeve to set in, but not much harder to perform than a dry repair sleeve.
|10-03-2012 09:09 PM|
i have ran 3 engines with sleeves only one had a problem and it was the machinist who made the error
just make sure its a good reputable machine shop
|10-03-2012 08:48 PM|
|against all odds||
Wet sleeve in a SBC:
Is a wet cylinder sleeve in a small block chevy a good idea if i'm only going to use it for transportation(mostly) and rarely rev it over 3000 rpm.
i hear some engines can take it and some can't and i've "heard" the sbc is not one of those engines.