|10-04-2012 01:26 PM|
|My 39 Buick||Outstanding, I now know i am on the right track! My new Crane can arrived and has been installed. All of the help is greatly appreciated. I now have to tackle the carb and see if i can get it in line with this motor! Thanks again for all the help!|
|10-03-2012 01:17 PM|
Crane has an adjustable vacuum advance can kit- p/n 99600-1 that has the limiter plate, springs and an adjustable vacuum advance can including tool.
More on timing can be seen here.
Until you get a timing light on it, put the line back the way it was. The link above has info on making a timing tape if you don't have a dial back timing light along w/other links at the bottom of the page.
|10-03-2012 10:28 AM|
|10-03-2012 05:24 AM|
holleys typically come jetted rich. Check the size of the front jets and get some jets 2 and 3 sizes smaller for testing.
I would also recommend that you buy an adjustable vacuum advance canister. summit racing sales them for 25.00.
Set the the idle timing to 20 degrees, this should give you about 38 to 40 total revving at 4000 rpm. Verify this!
Then use the adjustable vacuum advance on the manifold source with 10 more degrees of timing. When you plug it in, it should be at 30 degree at idle and around 50 when you rev it in park.
Then, adjust the idle speed to 800 rpms, and then adjust the idle air mixture screws for highest rpm.
You should be getting 10-11 mpg in town and 15-17 on the highway (depending on speed).
|10-02-2012 04:10 PM|
|My 39 Buick||
a little more info here please!
"When you connected the vac advance to the manifold source did the engine idle up? If not then it's likely the vac canister is ruptured internally causing a vacuum leak that is noticeable when connected to a manifold source. When it's connected to a ported source it's not so noticeable. So first things first, get a timing light, then test the vacuum advance unit, if it's ruptured get a replacement."
While reading here about the ruptured diaphram it dawned on me that my vac can really has no function. I have set and reset the timing on my bare bones 350 and ported and manifold vac does the same thing. Dosent really change my timing. That being said, i removed the vac can and applied or tried to apply vaccume presure using a mighty vac tool and i can not get any presure to hold in the can. Translating to no movement of the adjusting rod. Is this a good method for checking these cans?
Question 2 is, I have read that these cans can be adjusted with an allen wrench. Is this true for stock factory made cans? The one i just removed does not appear to be adjustable in any way.
This is all new to me and i have been head scrathing since i started tinkering with this car! So needless to say any and all help will be greatly appreciated.
|02-29-2012 09:48 PM|
First off, you should never make changes to the timing via vacuum or mechanical if you don't have a timing light to check the spark timing. Whoever timed it before you could have the timing set where it needed to be and when you connected the vacuum advance to a manifold source now the timing is over advanced which can cause the issue your having.
When you connected the vac advance to the manifold source did the engine idle up? If not then it's likely the vac canister is ruptured internally causing a vacuum leak that is noticeable when connected to a manifold source. When it's connected to a ported source it's not so noticeable. So first things first, get a timing light, then test the vacuum advance unit, if it's ruptured get a replacement. Afterwards, you'll want to disconnect the vac advance and plug it. Set the base timing to 12 degrees before top dead center. Lock distributor. Reconnect vac advance, recheck timing, it should be 18 to 24 degrees before top dead center. My next question is you said the engine was stock besides having a holley carb on it. So I'm taking a guess the intake is stock and there's a adapter plate on it? If so that's likely causing the rest of the issue such as horrible mileage and drivability problems. If it does have a adapter plate you have two options, get a aftermarket intake such as a Edelbrock performer or the like, or get a Rochester Quadrajet to go on it which is what I would do. The Quadrajets small primaries make for excellant low end torque development, throttle response and fuel economy. Another area to why it's using alot of fuel could also be partially due to the ignition system. What shape is the ignition system in? Are you still running points or has it been converted over to HEI? If it has points I would get a points to solid state conversion kit from pertronix. Are the plug wires cheapy parts store wires? If so I would replace them with spiral core wires which last twice as long and have far lower resistance plus better sparking power than the cheap parts store solid core wires. There are other areas you can also improve to get better mileage. If you should want to know just ask.
|02-29-2012 09:17 PM|
Vacuum advance problem
Hello everyone, i have a problem i was hoping someone could help me out with. I just purchased a 1970 chevy c10 with a 350. Only mod done to the engine is a holley 600 carb. I just purchased the truck so i dont know many of the specs on it. But here is my problem, the truck was running great however i am getting horrible gas milage, i know its not a prius but im getting around 5-7 MPG. So a friend said he just had the same problem and his was that the vacuum advance was connected to a ported vacuum rather than a manifold vacuum. Well mine is the same way so i moved my vacuum advance to a manifold vacuum port and now the truck stutters real bad like it doesnt want to run at all. It will idle but doesnt want to drive very well. If anybody has an idea please let me know. Thanks in advance.