|10-07-2012 07:11 AM|
Everybody is correct. What fish eye eliminator does is turn your whole paint job into one BIG fish eye. Clean, Clean, Clean...I generally look at the interior of a car and if I see shiny vinyl or dashes I clean the interior of the car. Shiny can mean silicone cleaners and "protectants" used on the interior surface. This contamination can travel through the air vents and contaminate your paint, especially in colder climates. If it's cold outside and the car is brought inside the air inside the car will expand as it warms up, causing the cabin air to release through vents and cause problems. Hope this helps.
|10-07-2012 05:45 AM|
|deadbodyman||Toss it ....or use it as a paperweight|
|10-05-2012 08:24 AM|
|Trucknut||No fisheye reducer for me! Been there. Beside what's been mentioned about it, each time you mix more paint it has to be exactly the same mix as the previous. If not....you really have problems. If you read the label it will tell you that the surface has to be absolutely clean (I haven't used it in years). That being the case you won't have problems with the fisheye reducer. But, if it's ABSOLUTELY clean, you don't need it. My paint store sells it but won't push or recommend it.|
|10-05-2012 01:30 AM|
After decades of research the only know use for FEE is for gun lube... carefully on the needle at the packing and on the threads of the fluid screw even then be carfull after handleing the bottle as if it was oil
Probably a reason why someone would give it a way
|10-04-2012 06:55 PM|
I agree with Brian, toss it. Proper cleanup and proper prep renders it useless.
|10-04-2012 11:19 AM|
|cyclopsblown34||If doing a base coat/clear coat paint job, you can dust the base over the affected areas rather dry for two coats and then proceed to apply the successive coats as you would normally.|
|10-03-2012 10:21 PM|
|paint dude||Dont use it!! its like fighting fire with fire, You are covering up whatever problem you have. Find the source to the contamination and solve it. In the end you will have a better finish.|
|09-14-2012 12:44 PM|
|cyclopsblown34||If you decide to use the stuff, you have to use it in every coat of any material on top of it. I prefer to clean well with dish liquid(DAWN) and then wipe with rubbing acohol and clean paper towels.|
|09-14-2012 12:38 PM|
My opinion is to toss it in the garbage. I haven't used it in thirty years! No kidding! If you clean properly, you aren't going to get any.
Oh my God, I just had a flash back! It wasn't 30 years it was more like 15, I had an EMERGENCY situation that required it. I had the worse contamination problem that I had ever seen, before or after. I could spray color or primer without a problem. Then the second the clear hit it would be COVERED in fisheye! It was so bad I actually had to farm out my paint for a month or so. I would only do jams and used the fisheye eliminator just so it would be doable, even though it was rougher than a bag of bb's, the texture was horrible! Then all of a sudden the problem was gone as fast as it came, never did find out what it was.
Anyway, if you clean properly you really don't need the stuff. What it is from what I understand is literally silicone! It makes your paint compatible with the contaminate! That was my understanding back then, being I haven't used it since I don't care about it so I never confirmed that.
And for the instructions, go on line to the PPG site and get the product data sheet, I don't remember how it's used.
|09-14-2012 10:22 AM|
Using Fisheye Eliminator
I was given a can of OMNI AU MX194 Fisheye eliminator to use on a panel of my MG. I don't have any instructions to tell me how much of this product to use in my paint mix. I've been using a Touch-Up gun with a 8 oz. cup. Comments???