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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-03-2012 08:28 AM
deadbodyman LOL,You probably wouldnt say that if you worked for me...
I always let the guys make the mistakes first THEN I show them how to avoid them and make life easier...That way they understand completly the value of what I'm showing them. Something I hear all the time is: WHY didnt you show me this BEFORE I wasted all that time..
11-03-2012 08:08 AM
novafreek6872 @ dead

You ALWAYS have great tips. Thanks

Andy
11-03-2012 08:04 AM
deadbodyman Theres a few common mistakes I still see all the time. first is with the masking before the primer I see a lot of guys masking too close to the bodywork and priming right up to the paper creating a hard primer line,the problem is when that line is sanded out it'll still show through as a ghost line.The proper way would be to mask of well beyond where the primer is, 3-5inches or more.
Second and even more common mistake is only sanding to 180 and priming. Sanding to 180 on the filler work is ok and wont be any trouble but the surrounding painted area needs to be takin down to 320 so theres a smooth transistion from 180 to 320 for the primer to stick to,going from 180 to shiny paint just dont cut it. and please never prime unsanded paint,I see this all the time,someone will prime 4-5 " past the sanded part and all it does is waste valuable time sanding it all back off,hours in some cases ...A good rule to go by is when you mask for primer the tape should never be stuck to shiny paint ,only stick the tape on something thats been 320 sanded (320 dry or 400 wet)
So you see, your primer IS important but knowing WHAT kind primer to use and where and proper preping is MOST important. Just using the absolute best primer on the planet wont get you a better job...PREP is everything in this biz....
11-02-2012 08:47 AM
69 widetrack
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
even if the car is packed bumper to bumper with bondo ,the trick is for it NOT to look like it is...it takes experiance,lots of it....
I pefer Z-grip along with EZ sand finishing putty.One coat of z-grip fills just about anything I need sometimes two if I dont have time to do proper metal finishing...after I sand with 36 I quickly breeze over it with 80 then start with the ez sand putty and 80 grit all the way to 320 and a thin coat of primer ,it works great for me and quick,i like that part
I especially like the finishing in 320 part...no sinkage and sand scratches showing up later
11-02-2012 07:55 AM
E.Furgal
Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
Well I'll get my notarized statements of proof for my body and paint work on a T in the main arena at the Grand National Roadster show, and Street Rodder mag, the first place with another car, the comment in a respected magazine saying one was one of the most detailed most interesting in the show and deserved a spot in the main arena, and the front cover of a magazine and full articles on a few cars I did all body and paint on. The probably hundreds of other classics and the probably thousands of late model collision repair jobs replacing structural and non-structural parts. I'll get that paper work together along with a photo and video montage so I have credibility.

You will still have a problem with my personality, sorry.

I correct those "little things" because others reading it may need to know and it's interesting.

None of this it personal, me "correcting" a few things doesn't change what you can do and how others see you, you may think it does, but it doesn't. Don't take this too seriously, we are tossing things around in a garage while having a beer, that is what these forums are. It's all good, like you "correcting" me on the lubing of the hinges, I learned something, thanks.

Brian
the CORRECT technical terms some need, as they don't know what (in this case) disc you are taking about.. walk into a autobody surply shop/store and think newbe.. and look at tons of different disc/paper/etc..
brian wasn't correcting you to, "in your face" it was because the thread starter might not know what type disc you guys are talking about..
11-02-2012 06:19 AM
deadbodyman even if the car is packed bumper to bumper with bondo ,the trick is for it NOT to look like it is...it takes experiance,lots of it....
I pefer Z-grip along with EZ sand finishing putty.One coat of z-grip fills just about anything I need sometimes two if I dont have time to do proper metal finishing...after I sand with 36 I quickly breeze over it with 80 then start with the ez sand putty and 80 grit all the way to 320 and a thin coat of primer ,it works great for me and quick,i like that part
10-30-2012 10:45 PM
tech69 do good metal work with planishing hammers, shrinking disks, plastic mallets. All that stuff takes time, experience, and to know how metal works(easy part. You can also use lead or synthetic lead to use as filler. Either that or you have a bondomobile, a primermobile, or a wavymobile. I'd love to do all my work with shrinking disks and true restoration tools but nowadays no one has the money to pay for those kind of jobs. My advice is, if you have the time and money and the car is gonna be worth while why not? If you don't get the perfect results you're looking for than it's that much less filler to apply, but you should be aiming for a straight finish to where you only need a primer to level it.

Anywho, we use 3m Platinum filler, various urethane/polyurethane primers, and sometimes we use z grip to fill over huge manholes.
10-30-2012 08:58 PM
55's 65 Another question for you guys. What do you use for filler? What can I do to avoid having a Bondomobile?
10-30-2012 08:46 PM
55's 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Fool View Post
What you say DBM is Very true.
I was just saying the answer to his actual question.

I did not see where he asked how to prep the metal for the primer, although that is a very important step as you mention
I didn't ask only because I didn't think to ask! You guys are great and I appreciate all the advice. I haven't done bodywork in quite a while, and I want it to be right! With that said, I ordered SPI Epoxi Primer and will keep you guys informed on how it goes! Please feel free to keep the advice coming though! Lol
10-30-2012 04:36 PM
Old Fool
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
I believe we established that epoxy was best and that SPI might just be one of the best brands earlier in this thread but as good as epoxy primer is,its only as good as the metal prep The perfect paint job always STARTS with the metal prep....After all ,the best foundation is useless to build a house on if the ground isnt preped right...Thats why we always want to strip the old paint off when we really want something to look great,we dont know whats under that old paint or how well it was done.
What you say DBM is Very true.
I was just saying the answer to his actual question.

I did not see where he asked how to prep the metal for the primer, although that is a very important step as you mention
10-30-2012 06:21 AM
deadbodyman I believe we established that epoxy was best and that SPI might just be one of the best brands earlier in this thread but as good as epoxy primer is,its only as good as the metal prep The perfect paint job always STARTS with the metal prep....After all ,the best foundation is useless to build a house on if the ground isnt preped right...Thats why we always want to strip the old paint off when we really want something to look great,we dont know whats under that old paint or how well it was done.
10-29-2012 06:05 PM
Old Fool Back to the original question, How important is the primer I use?

The primer is the foundation of the paint job, so to answer the question it is very important. As I said before follow Barry's perfect paint job and you won't go wrong.

Now back to the thread hijack ego stroking pissing moaning contest.
10-29-2012 07:56 AM
MARTINSR And if you didn't know, they CAN remove some material if you want to. I was amazed when I was doing my brothers vintage Harley I removed the excess brass from the frame joints that were sweated together. A Roloc disc removed all the excess brass without any damage what so ever to the metal, surprised the heck out of me.

Brian
10-29-2012 07:13 AM
deadbodyman Oh yeah ,thats what I love about the little rol-locs after the paint is gone theres no grinding marks to fill ,just epoxy and paint the jambs who wants to waste days sanding jambs that were done in 2k build primer when you dont have too not to mention getting chips from a thick build up of primer when your all done...
10-28-2012 10:22 AM
tech69 Another thing, the marks it leaves aren't deep but rough enough to where you'll have to go back over it to smooth it out to get a good hand feel. Obviously not very important if you epoxy then block but even then, I'm not sure I'd want to top coat such a scratch. Do like them for nooks and crannies though. and they clean up easily.
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