|10-07-2012 11:47 PM|
Some pics. TH350 Rebuild pictures
Shows the output shaft little snap ring, and details about getting that ring to rotate by bending the anti clunk spring.
|10-07-2012 10:24 PM|
|zardiw||It don't matter if that anti clunk spring gets bent all to crap......cause I'm gonna replace it with a case saver anyway.......z|
|10-07-2012 10:19 PM|
Rear oil port for removing reverse clutch
It's at the very back towards the rear on the bottom where all the channels are. It's one of 2 far as I can tell.....I'll try it tomorrow and post a pic where it is. You blow air in there to force that piston out.....z
|10-07-2012 10:15 PM|
Get a good book.
Get Session's book at Amazon.....used ones are pretty cheap........z
|10-07-2012 10:00 PM|
Making the bottom channel area Flat.
You know those T squares with the Sliding deal with a bubble in it and a thumb screw.....Well, that bar is about 1/8" thick and STRAIGHT.......and sharp.....So I had a high spot on those channels......and I just scraped that bar across it and shaved off a little aluminum......and actually made it pretty straight.....lol........z
I know I'm gonna catch some flack for that one........LMAO........z
|10-07-2012 09:58 PM|
Gasket removal tip
Go buy yourself a scalpel with a box of #11 blades. This is an awesome tool anyway, but it's just the thing to scrape off the gasket if it's a ROYAL PAIN like mine was. Made by TransTec.....make a note. Most of it came out, but there were LOTS of places where it was almost welded to the channels.
When you use this, use 2 hands so you have lots of control. Cause you really don't wanna screw up those channels......it's ALUMINUM..lol...and that scalpel blade is Surgical STEEL.......
Also, scrape that blade on a flat piece of the bottom BACKWARDS every once in awhile.....to kind of dull it a little bit.......and flip it over and use the other side too.....It's surgical steel, but it will get some burrs from use.......so you can scrape it backwards on a wide flat piece (like where the pan sits) to get those gone..........sounds a lot more complicated explaining it than it is once you get going.........z
|10-07-2012 09:52 PM|
Valve Body Pins/Pistons
These pins were a royal pain. The ones in the blind holes anyway. They ARE just dropped in there, and will come out with a little effort.
Play around with pushing the front of those valves and at the same time banging the valve body on a piece of wood to try to get them to drop out. If they come out enough for you to grab them with a pair of little forceps, you are good to go.......Also pay close attention which valves go in which holes. They should have some marks on the front.....if not I suggest you make some. And put them in baggies after you get them out too.....And MARK the baggies with your sharpie.
I had one valve body that was HARD to get out....it was the 3rd one from the left....(with the channels up). I used a little screw driver that was bent on the end to CAREFULLY push on the piston through the channels. Once it was out enough to expose a lip, it was a lot easier to get it out......There was a burr where the pin was and that what caused it to be so tight......z
|10-07-2012 09:46 PM|
This is the order you should do this.....or at least the order I'm gonna be doing it, since I'm in the middle of this deal.
1. Use zip lock sandwich bags to keep your parts in. Label the less obvious ones with a sharpie.
2. Take PICTURES as you're doing this job. LOTS of them.
3. Take out each main assembly, like the pump, the clutch packs/assemblies, until you get them All out....and you have an empty case. i.e. don't get sidetracked taking stuff apart until you need to.
4. Then work your way back wards starting with that reverse clutch etc.
Anybody got a pic of that air passage you gotta blow in to get the reverse piston out?......lol
|10-07-2012 09:41 PM|
T-350 Transmission Rebuild Tips and Pics.
OK...gonna try to summarize all the different problems questions, MIS Information etc.....and will post pics of a complete rebuild.
1. There are only 2 tools that you absolutely need to buy, or make.
A. When you get all the way into the back of the transmission where the reverse clutch lives, you need a tool to compress it so you can get a snap ring out. There's pics of it on the web, but you can make one also using a piece of all thread, a U shaped piece that fits over the clutch spring housing, and a flat piece of thick bar stock that will go on the back of the transmission. The all thread goes through the hole.......(by this time you already have the output shaft removed). You put nuts on both ends, and tighten the one on the flat bar to compress that thing. And you can also use that tool to do the other clutch packs.
2. The other 2 tricky parts are removing the output shaft little tiny hidden snap ring at the end of that output shaft. It's hard to see, and even harder to get out. SO, invest in a pair of external snap ring pliers. These should have a SMALL front end, and it should be BENT, so you can use it to get behind these snap rings. These will also come in handy when you remove the larger snap ring on the reverse clutch above.
Having said all that......I WAS able to remove that tiny snap ring using a couple of dental type picks. One of the picks had a multi bent front end on it that made this possible.
I also removed the rear clutch snap ring using a couple of thin screwdrivers......one of which I had bent the front of to make it angled.
OH....and one other thing........Does anybody have a picture of WHERE that 'rear oil port' is that you have to blow compressed air in to remove the reverse piston mentioned above.
And finally.....when you get to the part where you remove that BIG internal snap ring that goes around the inside of the case.......and you can SEE the anti clunk spring.........well.....at that point Sessions says to just wack the output shaft HARD with a rubber/plastic/wood mallet, or even slam the whole case down to where the output shaft hits on a piece of wood or something.
Well.....this is wrong....lol......because in my case the whole assembly had rotated so that there was no way it was coming out of there.....and the anti clunk spring was KEEPING it rotated......it was a mystery on how to get that out, but I found a method.
If that anti clunk spring is on the top left side, grab the right end of it TIGHT with some small vise grips and BEND that sucker out and down.....that makes it loose enough to rotate that assembly to where you get it CLOSE to where it will line up with the lugs and come out.......THEN you wack the output shaft hard and it will pop out...........z