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Topic Review (Newest First)
10-15-2012 11:59 AM
Icejeep I did measure up the port opening of the exhaust port and it measures 1.4" wide and 1.35" height. So it's smaller than my 1.5/8" headers. So that shouldn't be a problem or what ???

Thanks.
10-14-2012 06:55 AM
Icejeep I needto measure up the port size of the head and then the opening of these headers. Will post the results here when i'm finished !

But i did ran it like this with the low compression and small roller cam and it did just fine i think, wasn't laying off anywhere in the powerband and spun very quickly and easily to 7000 rpm's

But i agree with you they might be bigger these headers. Maybe 1.3/4" headers should do the trick !
10-13-2012 07:41 PM
vinniekq2 Im really curious as to how well this combo of 235 cc heads and 1 5/8 headers is going to work?Im using 1 7/8 headers and only 227 cc heads
10-13-2012 02:19 PM
Icejeep Yes hopefully this thing will be pretty fast as i would like to run in the 10's on next season !
10-13-2012 01:09 PM
F-BIRD'88 Be prepared to go fast.

www.cranecams.com
www.iskycams.com
10-13-2012 01:06 PM
Icejeep Thank you for all your advice sir. I will contact some cam company's / grinders during next week and then i'll let you know how things work out.

I remember that with the small street roller cam, 2400 stall holeshot converter and 4.10 gears it would go through the traps at 5700-5800 rpm at 117-118 mp/h. It was slow of the line but still i found that it would finish the first gear at 6500 rpm shifts very quickly. 60 ft times were only at flat 2.0 seconds. Hopefully i will do better with my new high stall converter.

Thanks again !
10-13-2012 12:59 PM
F-BIRD'88
Quote:
Originally Posted by Icejeep View Post
I like this budget solution for the fuel system, as it's set up now i'we got one 6 gallon cell in the trunk and one Holley Blue pump that pumps through 1/2" line into Holley fuel pressure regulator that has two 3/8" lines that go to the Carburetor. Would this system compensate for the dual Carter set up on the motor alone ?

How high do you think i need to spin a motor like this ?
Yes the holley blue is fine for the motor. When it craps out and or starts leaking
(and it will)
replace with the carter pumps. (move the fuel cell to the front too)

You will be shifting at 6800-7200rpm. The 4.10's will keep the motor from excessive rpm thru the traps. No worries. 350's like to rev.
The motor will show you what it likes.
Comp Cams will help you get the valve train right. Thats why you need to call them . A cam in this area will work very well for you in this car.
Don;t get greedy with the nitrous shot on pump gas. This car is going to GLH on a true 150HP shot on the T ram.
Step up to 110 octane unleaded to play with the big shots.
Get a spark control box and a nitrous RPM switch.
No rev limiter is required for this simple combo.
Shorter slick for N/A... taller slick for Nitrous. Keep it simple.
10-13-2012 12:52 PM
Icejeep I like this budget solution for the fuel system, as it's set up now i'we got one 6 gallon cell in the trunk and one Holley Blue pump that pumps through 1/2" line into Holley fuel pressure regulator that has two 3/8" lines that go to the Carburetor. Would this system compensate for the dual Carter set up on the motor alone ?

How high do you think i need to spin a motor like this ?
10-13-2012 12:35 PM
F-BIRD'88 Leave it as is for now. Its fine as a baseline. This car is going to MPH. A rock solid fuel system for this car (with the tunnel ram, edelbrock 750's and edelbrock RPM nitrous) can be built using low cost Carter electric fuel pumps and 3/8" fuel line, filters and hardware-fittings etc.

2 Carter P4070's (6psi) twin 3/8" fuel lines for the Motor. No regulator is required..

1 Carter P4594 (7-8psi) pump 3/8" fuel lines and Holley pressure regulaotr for the nitrous system.
Mount a fuel cell under the hood (ahead of the motor) and plumb all three pumps off it.
No need for jacked up fuel pressure. Dirt simple to swap fuel octane.
A fraction of the cost of 1/2" high pressure race stuff. Dirt simple and reliable. uses common low cost 3/8" hardware and $10 fuel filters.

These low cost simple fuel pumps outlast all the racey stuff and if by chance one does crap out on ya
they are dirt cheap to replace and can be sourced locally.
When the fuel cell is mounted under hood ahead of the motor you DO NOT NEED OR WANT high fuel pressure to overcome acceleration on a drag car.
You can build this low cost simple reliable fuel system for your car for a fraction of the pretty racy stuff.

if I was going to do anything I would get a bit shorter diameter slick for the N/A motor. 28" ish.
4.10's +28" tires for N/A running ,,, 29.5" tires for on nitrous (your current tires)
Start with what you got. its going to GLH.
10-13-2012 12:25 PM
Icejeep I think it's almost sold ! I have to look around here for a combo like this !

But tell me what do you think about my rear gear selection, on or off the nitrous ?
10-13-2012 12:00 PM
F-BIRD'88 There are lots of these street tunnel rams floating around used. Even in Icyland.
Most people don;t know what to do with them.
Edelbrock 750's are dirt cheap too. Agains lots around used. $100-$150 each.
Your big headed motor will really like this intake w a pair of eddy 750's.
They are not fussy to tune. (set it and forget it dirt simple to tune)
More power and torque than a single plane and 950hp
You probabily won't even need the nitrous.
Cause you will now have areal motor under the hood.
The comp cam I showed as a example is none too big.
(its a "small cam" for this combo.

The Edelbrock Dual carb Performer RPM nitrous kit is just right for this
motor w/ street tunnel ram. The price is right too.
The whole Edelbrock system I just outlined will make more power, go faster and cost less.
10-13-2012 11:55 AM
F-BIRD'88 Degree the cam in and start on a 100 to 103 intake C/L. Move it as required. The car will show you what it likes best. You can play with the lash too.
10-13-2012 11:53 AM
Icejeep Thanks for your advice sir. I do have a couple of questions though !
What do you think about my gear ratio ? Should i lower them gears or just try it out as is ?
This cam seem's huge for my compression atleast bigger than what i had in mind,, but i take your advice on it sir !

As well as i like the looks of a Tunnel Ram i think i will stick to the Victor intake for now. Because this time the money goes into rebuild this engine and purchase a nitrous system and bigger fuel system along with the new transmission and converter.

Thanks again !
10-13-2012 11:35 AM
F-BIRD'88 Hell you can drive this to work and back its so simple.

Looks fine. Consider the street tunnel ram intake .
A example of the base line roller cam for this would be
a Comp #12-911-9 (but could be ground on a 108LSA)

I want you to :
Call Comp Cams or your favorite camshaft grinder to get set up.
The 4.10's are fine for getting a base line and a good compromise for Nitrous.
if the exhaust headers are dinky street headers (the outside diameter is 1-5/8" and the inside diameter is less)
You can step that up.
10-13-2012 11:20 AM
Icejeep Ok here it goes the complete run down..

Block -GM 4bolt mains #3970010
Crankshaft - GM cast #3932-442 3.48" stroke
Connecting Rods - GM x-type with ARP bolts and polished beams.
Pistons - Probe flat top -4cc VMS75 forged 10.5:1 compression
Heads - 235cc pro topline, 2.08"/1.6" valves 64cc cnc chambers
Intake - Edelbrock Super Victor #2925
Carburetor - Holley HP 950 cfm
Headers - 1.5/8" long tube w. 18" collector extensions (thought they were 1.3/4" but I'm wrong)
Ignition - MSD Pro Billet distributor with locked timing and 6AL

Car weight is 2900 lbs race ready and has following parts.
Th350 (now w. T-brake) and 5500 stall 8" converter.
GM 12 bolt with 4.10 gears and spool.
Tires are 29.5"x13.5"x15" slicks.

I'm also thinking about running a small nitrous kit next season, 150-200 HP nos cheater kit
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